![\"North-east](\"http:\/\/images.summitpost.org\/original\/19505.jpg\" "\\"Everest\\"")
<\/a>Other names: <\/strong>Sagamartha, Chomolangma or Qomolangma\nAltitude:<\/strong> 8848 m, 29,028 feet
\nLocation: <\/strong>Tibet \/ Nepal
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> May 29, 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay with a British expedition
\nSummits\/Deaths:<\/strong> 7,000\/276 or 4.14%
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n
Challenge<\/strong> : The two normal routes are mostly non-technical climbs but it is the altitude that makes Everest difficult. The south has the Khumbu Icefall that has claimed many lives and on the summit push, the Hillary Step, a short section of rock, challenges some people. The North side is windy and cold with a lot of exposed rock. On both routes fixed ropes are used from Base My Experience<\/strong>: I summited Everest on May 21, 2011. I climbed fast with IMG’s Kami Sherpa, making the climb from the South Col to the summit in 7:40 and returned in 3:20. This was my 4th attempt with non-summits in 2002, 2003 and 2008. read more<\/a><\/p>\n Challenge<\/strong>: Arguably the world\u2019s most difficult mountain to climb. It\u2019s high, steep, with a high risk for avalanches and rock fall. The weather is often bad and there are no easy route to the peak\u2019s summit. It is technical climbing from start to end. The North Ridge is a bit easier but the approach through China is demanding and long.<\/p>\n My Experience:<\/strong> I summited K2 on July 27, 2014. I climbed with Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering and Kami Sherpa once again.. It was an incredible climbed that started steep and never let up. The most fun was technical rock climbing on the Black Pyramid at 23,000′.<\/p>\n My Experience:<\/strong> My first 8,000m peak. I climbed it from Tibet with IMG. A 5 week expedition, I reached 26,600′ (8,060m) on the summit plateau before turning back. It was a learning experience that I never forgot.<\/p>\n My Experience<\/strong>: I summited Manaslu on September 25, 2013. The route was the most difficult in years due to a large avalanche in 2012 plus other mountain movements and a low snow year. The tiny summit was scary indeed!<\/p>\n My Experience: <\/strong>I organized this expedition to climb Broad Peak and then to “have a good showing” on K2. I reached 21,000′ on Broad or Camp 2 before abandoning the climb due to weakness that resulted from a severe bug I contracted on the trek in. The Karakorum ranges was magnificent and I was very lucky to have unbelievable weather for the month I spent there. It was instrumental having this experience for my summit of K2 in 2014.<\/p>\n
\nCamp to the summit. Nowadays crowding is mentioned as a factor.<\/p>\n2-K2<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names:<\/strong> Mount Godwin-Austen or Chogori or Dapsang
\nAltitude: <\/strong>8611 m, 28,251 feet
\nLocation:<\/strong> China \/ Pakistan
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> July 31, 1954 by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, Italian
\nSummits\/Deaths:<\/strong> 354\/82 or 23.16%
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n3-Kangchenjunga<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names: <\/strong>Kanchanfanga
\nAltitude<\/strong>: 8586 m, 28,169 feet
\nLocation:<\/strong> India \/ Nepal
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> May 25, 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown
\nExpedition:<\/strong> Great Britain
\nSummits\/Deaths:<\/strong> 284\/43 or 15.14%
\nChallenge: <\/strong>It\u2019s one of the largest of the peaks of the 8000ers and the route to the summit is long. This fact and the many short, but technical sections place Kangchenjunga firmly in the higher end of the difficulty list. The altitude is also a factor.<\/p>\n4-Lhotse<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Altitude: <\/strong>8516 m, 27.940 feet
\nLocation:<\/strong> Tibet \/ Nepal
\nFirst ascent: <\/strong>May 18, 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger
\nExpedition:<\/strong> Switzerland
\nSummits\/Deaths:<\/strong> 525\/14 or 2.67%
\nChallenge: <\/strong>The normal route share the South Col route on Everest and starts with the Khumbu Icefall. The altitude and exposure on the final climb to the summit are contributing to the peak\u2019s reputation of being one in the middle of the list in terms of difficulty.<\/p>\n5-Makalu<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names: <\/strong>Makalufeng
\nAltitude: <\/strong>8463 m, 27,838 feet
\nLocation:<\/strong> Tibet \/ Nepal
\nFirst ascent: <\/strong>May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy
\nExpedition:<\/strong> French
\nSummits\/Deaths: <\/strong>377\/39 or 10.34%
\n<\/strong>
\nChallenge: <\/strong>One of the more technical peaks and is amongst those considered hard climbs. Steep passages, both on rock and snow, exposure and avalanche danger makes this peak a tough target.<\/p>\n6-Cho Oyu<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Altitude:<\/strong> 8201 m, 26,906 feet
\nLocation: <\/strong>Tibet \/ Nepal
\nFirst ascent: <\/strong>October 19, 1954 by Joseph Joechler, Pasang, Dawa Lama and Herbert Tichy
\nExpedition: <\/strong>Austrian
\nSummits\/Deaths: <\/strong> 3,171\/49 or 1.55%
\nChallenge: <\/strong>Technically speaking the easiest of the 14. No technical climbing, but large snowfields and long distances. Many climbers don\u2019t reach the true summit, as it\u2019s located some distance from where you enter the summit plateau and is only marginally higher than the fore summit.<\/p>\n7-Dhaulagiri<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names:<\/strong> Aulagiri
\nAltitude: <\/strong>8167 m, 26,795 feet
\nLocation: <\/strong>Nepal
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> May 19, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Nawang Dorje, Nima Dorje, Ernst Forrer and Albin Schelbert
\nExpedition:<\/strong>Switzerland
\nSummits\/Deaths: <\/strong>448\/69 or 15.40%
\nChallenge: <\/strong>Considered to be a hard peak to climb by the pioneers in the area, but it\u2019s nowadays considered as one on the lower half of the list. The normal route on the peak has some short technical sections and some avalanche danger, but overall it\u2019s a quite straight forward climb.<\/p>\n8-Manaslu<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names: <\/strong>Kutang
\nAltitude:<\/strong> 8163 m, 26,781 feet
\nLocation: <\/strong>Nepal
\nFirst ascent: <\/strong>May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu
\nExpedition: <\/strong>Japanese
\nSummits\/Deaths: <\/strong>672\/67 or 9.97%
\nChallenge: <\/strong>On the lower half of the peak\u2019s normal route, avalanche danger is usually a main problem. Higher on the peak, the climb is mostly non-technical and easy. Manaslu has one of the higher death rates and is considered a dangerous peak.<\/p>\n9-Nanga Parbat<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names:<\/strong> Diamir
\nAltitude: <\/strong>8126 m, 26,660 feet
\nLocation: <\/strong>Pakistan
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> July 3, 1953 by Hermann Buhl
\nExpedition: <\/strong>Austrian
\nSummits\/Deaths:<\/strong> 335\/68 or 20.30%
\n<\/strong>
\nChallenge: <\/strong>Nanga Parbat\u2019s normal route is not extremely technical, but it\u2019s long and exposed. The mountain is infamous for bad weather and the route offers many tricky sections. It\u2019s considered as one of the harder peaks.<\/p>\n10-Annapurna<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names: <\/strong>Morshiadi
\nAltitude:<\/strong> 8091 m, 26,545 feet
\nLocation: <\/strong>Nepal
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> June 3, 1950 by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal
\nExpedition:<\/strong> French
\nSummits\/Deaths: <\/strong>191\/67 or 35.08%
\n<\/strong>
\nChallenge: <\/strong>Considered the most dangerous of the 14. The north and its original route is not that technical, but extremely avalanche prone. The south is of high technical Challenge and also holds lots of objective danger.<\/p>\n11-Gasherbrum I<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names:<\/strong> Hidden Peak or K5
\nAltitude:<\/strong> 8068 m, 26,444 feet
\nLocation: <\/strong>China \/ Pakistan
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> July 5, 1958 by Andrew Kauffman and Peter Schoening
\nExpedition:<\/strong> U.S.
\nSummits\/Deaths: <\/strong>334\/29 or 8.68%
\n<\/strong>
\nChallenge: <\/strong>When the icefall and some easy ground have been covered, the climb gets more difficult. Steep mixed climbing and some objective danger makes Gasherbrum I a peak which belongs with the more difficult 8000ers.<\/p>\n12-Broad Peak<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Other names: <\/strong>Falchen Kangri or K3
\nAltitude:<\/strong> 8047 m, 26,414 feet
\nLocation:<\/strong> China \/ Pakistan
\nFirst ascent:<\/strong> June 9, 1957 by Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz wintersteller
\nExpedition:<\/strong> Austrian
\nSummits\/Deaths:<\/strong> 404\/21 or 5.20%
\nChallenge: <\/strong>Considered a straight forward climb. The constant, but quite low angled steepness to the summit ridge can hold avalanche danger, but apart from that no technical surprises. Some rocky sections around the false summits and exposure offers the final test before reaching the true summit.<\/p>\n13-Gasherbrum II<\/h2>\n