{"id":20685,"date":"2015-03-30T06:04:34","date_gmt":"2015-03-30T12:04:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=20685"},"modified":"2016-12-12T16:54:42","modified_gmt":"2016-12-12T23:54:42","slug":"everest-2015-leaving-for-lhotse","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2015\/03\/30\/everest-2015-leaving-for-lhotse\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2015: Leaving for Lhotse"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/IMG_6292.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-20700 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/IMG_6292-147x225.jpg\" alt=\"Alan Alzheimers Prevention Registry\" width=\"147\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/IMG_6292-147x225.jpg 147w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/IMG_6292-313x480.jpg 313w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/IMG_6292-900x1382.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/IMG_6292.jpg 1042w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 147px) 100vw, 147px\" \/><\/a>In a few hours I will be flying towards Kathmandu for my attempt to summit the world\u2019s fourth highest mountain, Lhotse at 27,940 feet or 8516 meters. As always, I value, with gratitude, your good thoughts.<\/p>\n<h3>Following<\/h3>\n<p>I will be blogging along the way and extensively from Everest Base Camp.<\/p>\n<p>This <a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/2015-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\">link<\/a> is the primary location for all updates but there will be pointers from my <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alan.arnette\" target=\"_blank\">Facebook<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/alan_arnette\" target=\"_blank\">Twitter,<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/plus.google.com\/u\/0\/106124484580558420563\/posts\" target=\"_blank\">Google+<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/pulse\/activities\/alan-arnette%2B0_2XuibgF8GomcBjocMYVaL2?trk=mp-reader-h\" target=\"_blank\">LinkedIn<\/a> accounts. I will do my but not be able to respond to many of the comments.<\/p>\n<p>As has been my custom for the last 13 years, I will also be blogging about Everest. With me being at Everest Base Camp, I hope to do personal interviews with the climbers and bring the world what really happens on Everest from an informed perspective with no agenda<\/p>\n<p>The way to stay informed is to sign up for notifications by email when I make a new post. Please use this link.<\/p>\n<p>You can also follow my every move from Kathmandu to the summit via the SPOT GPS tracker, just click on the &#8220;Where&#8217;s Alan&#8221; menu item or this <a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wheres-alan\/\" target=\"_blank\">link<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Summary:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/2015-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\">Everest and Lhotse Blog<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wheres-alan\/\" target=\"_blank\">Alan&#8217;s Current Location<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Subscribe to email notification of new posts<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Lhotse<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?attachment_id=20540\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-20540 size-thumbnail\" src=\"http:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/Lhotselongroute.jpg?resize=225%2C169\" alt=\"Lhotselongroute\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" \/><\/a>I feel like I have climbed Lhotse four times already, just not to the summit as it shares 80% of the same route used to summit Everest.<\/p>\n<p>I will be climbing with <a href=\"http:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a> and Garrett Madison who I summited K2 with last summer. Also, I am thrilled beyond words to have Kami Sherpa\u00a0(Ang Chhiring Sherpa \u2013 Pangboche) climb with me. I summited Everest in 2011 with Kami as well as K2 last year. Also joining me will be Louis Carstens whom I summited Manaslu with in 2013.<\/p>\n<h3>The Climb<\/h3>\n<p>Lhotse is known as a \u201ctechnical\u201d climb meaning you need to use protection, climbing gear and full on hands and feet to gain the summit. As I make several climbs through the Khumbu Icefall, I\u2019ll be thinking of the Sherpas who lost their lives in this section last year. I hope to minimize my, and our Sherpas, exposure by limiting the gear I carry to the high camps.<\/p>\n<p>The real crux of climbing Lhotse is the final 300 meters or last 1,000 feet. Once leaving the Camp 3 at 23,500 feet on the Lhotse Face, I will cross the Yellow Band and then turn right continuing straight up the Face instead of contouring across the Geneva Spur to the South Col as I did on my Everest summit climb. We will make camp at 25,750 feet or 7850 meters on the snow covered steep slopes of Lhotse. It is almost 2,200 feet to the summit on 50 to 60 degree slopes.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?attachment_id=20541\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-20541 size-thumbnail\" src=\"http:\/\/i1.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/Lhotseroute.jpg?resize=225%2C169\" alt=\"Lhotseroute\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nLeaving early the next morning, we will climb about 400 feet eventually reaching the bottom of the Lhotse Couloir, a narrow, rock filled gully that leads to the summit that is only 9 feet wide in some spots. This is the most challenging part of a Lhotse climb and will require every mountaineering skill I have obtained on my previous 37 expeditions. I will stem off the rocks, scramble and full on rock climb the final sections. Lhotse\u2019s summit is a small rock block that is often covered in snow making it dangerous.<\/p>\n<p>The return involves rappelling and arm rapping back to Camp 4 or Camp 2 where I will spend the night. The entire summit push will take 7 days. Thanks to Ellen Miller for the Lhotse photographs.<\/p>\n<h3>A Personal Commitment<\/h3>\n<p>The day my mom, Ida, asked me \u201cWho are you?\u201d was the day my life changed forever. I made a personal commitment to do everything I could to make a difference in finding a cure for Alzheimer\u2019s. I began to dedicate my climbs to raise awareness about AD: no cure, always fatal, not a part of normal aging.\u00a0 Thus far, thanks to many of you, we have reached 50 million people and raised $250,000 for Alzheimer\u2019s research.<\/p>\n<p>But there is so much more to be done, more I can do.<\/p>\n<p>In finding a cure for Alzheimer\u2019s, al trails play an important role. Many of the headlines you read about potential breakthroughs are done on mice or small scale human trails. In order for a new therapy to reach those in need, it must go through human trials and there is a severe shortage of volunteers thus stalling progress. In fact, 80% of studies fail because too few people sign up.<\/p>\n<h3>Alzheimer\u2019s Prevention Registry<\/h3>\n<p>The Alzheimer\u2019s Prevention Registry strives to overcome that hurdle by engaging people 18 and older of all races and ethnicities who are committed to ending Alzheimer\u2019s, whether or not they have a family history of the disease. From simple questionnaires and surveys, to brain imaging studies and even pharmaceutical trials to evaluate investigational medications and therapies, the Registry offers members many ways in which to participate. In no way does joining the Registry obligate you to take part in a study or al trial.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2011\/08\/16\/2-year-annivesery-of-ida-arnettes-passing-from-alzheimers\/img_0577\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-6674 size-thumbnail\" src=\"http:\/\/i2.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/IMG_0577.jpg?resize=225%2C169\" alt=\"Alan holding a picture of Ida Arnette on the summit of Mt. Elbrus\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/IMG_0577.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/IMG_0577-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/IMG_0577-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/IMG_0577-169x126.jpg 169w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>The <a href=\"http:\/\/www.endalznow.org\/?utm_source=alanarnette.com&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=lhotse2015&amp;utm_content=banner\" target=\"_blank\">Alzheimer\u2019s Prevention Registry<\/a> is part of Banner Alzheimer\u2019s Institute (BAI),\u00a0 a nonprofit organization dedicated to the goal of ending Alzheimer\u2019s disease without losing another generation. It is helping to launch a new era of Alzheimer\u2019s research\u2014detection, ment and prevention at the pre-symptomatic stage\u2014and to establish a comprehensive model of care that can be the national standard. BAI was founded in 2006 by Phoenix-based Banner Health, one of the country\u2019s largest nonprofit healthcare systems.<\/p>\n<p>\u2022 In no way does joining the Registry obligate you to take part in a study or al trial.<\/p>\n<p>\u2022 Each study has a defined set of eligibility requirements, which means not everyone will qualify for enrollment in a particular study.<\/p>\n<p>\u2022 All studies associated with the Alzheimer\u2019s Prevention Registry are approved by an ethics committee and ensure participants\u2019 privacy and confidentiality.<\/p>\n<p>I have made the personal commitment and joined the registry.<\/p>\n<h3><a href=\"http:\/\/www.endalznow.org\/?utm_source=alanarnette.com&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=lhotse2015&amp;utm_content=banner\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-20538 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/i2.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/jointheregistry.gif?resize=318%2C44\" alt=\"jointheregistry\" width=\"318\" height=\"44\" \/><\/a>Follow and Join<\/h3>\n<p>OK, I\u2019m pretty pumped about all this. This is the first climb for Project 8000. I\u2019m grateful to Banner for supporting me with this project and very pleased to ask you to <a href=\"http:\/\/www.endalznow.org\/?utm_source=alanarnette.com&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_campaign=lhotse2015&amp;utm_content=banner\" target=\"_blank\">join the Registry<\/a> \u2013 I have.<\/p>\n<p>I hope to hold that same picture of Ida Arnette on the summit.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In a few hours I will be flying towards Kathmandu for my attempt to summit the world\u2019s fourth highest mountain, Lhotse at [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"This post has details on my Lhoste climb and where I will be posting updates and my personal coverage of the overall Everest 2015 season.\r\n\r\nWhen I post on my blog, links will be posted on Facebook, Twitter, G+ and LinkedIn but the  way to follow is to sign up for email notification.\r\n\r\nDetails on this post.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[409,413],"tags":[410,415],"class_list":["post-20685","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-2015-coverage","category-lhotse-2015","tag-everest-2015-coverage","tag-lhotse-2015-climb"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20685","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=20685"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20685\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=20685"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=20685"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=20685"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}