{"id":21284,"date":"2015-07-11T22:06:37","date_gmt":"2015-07-12T04:06:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=21284"},"modified":"2025-01-20T18:03:23","modified_gmt":"2025-01-21T01:03:23","slug":"rainier-2015-summit-and-fun","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2015\/07\/11\/rainier-2015-summit-and-fun\/","title":{"rendered":"Rainier 2015: Summit and Fun"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Rainier<\/a>
Near the summit as the sun rises: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This trip report is for my climb of Mt. Rainier in Washington State, Washington. At 14,409 feet, \u00a0it is the highest volcano in the lower 48 states of the US and the most popular way of training for higher Himalayan peaks. I summited with friends on July 8, 2015.<\/p>\n

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I rolled over in my sleeping bag at 10:30 pm on July 7, 2015, hearing voices over the wind flapping the tent against me. It was time to climb Mt. Rainier.<\/p>\n

My close friend Barry Johnson had set this objective a year ago and trained diligently to get prepared. Fresh off my tragic experience attempting Lhotse in Nepal only two months earlier, I had committed to climbing with my friend but now had serious second thoughts about getting back onto the snow slopes. I hedged my decision for weeks. Barry waited for me to decide but had already assembled a solid team.<\/p>\n

As the aftermath of the deadly earthquake that took almost 9,000 lives in Nepal and our team doctor at Everest Base Camp quieted, I finally made the decision I needed to climb again, not only for Barry but for myself.<\/p>\n

This would be my third climb of Rainier, with summits in 2004 and 2012, so I knew to sit on the left side of the airplane as we flew from Denver to Seattle. About 30 minutes before landing, the huge volcano appeared on schedule. I\u2019m always amazed at the sight of Mt. Rainier from the air\u2014it is large, foreboding, snow-covered, and well, it demands respect that seems to be waning for all mountains across the planet.<\/p>\n

While Barry got our rental car, I retrieved our two duffel bags. We had compared gear lists for weeks with those of our teammates. We were determined to keep the weight down as we knew it was a short trip but a long summit day in potentially difficult snow conditions.<\/p>\n

One of Barry\u2019s pilot friends, Terry and his partner, Lisa, met us at a tiny motel in Enumclaw that night. We had a fun dinner in town and, the following day drove to the ranger station at the White River entrance. There, we met up with our fifth member, Sarah, an impressive 26-year-old just starting her career as a guide for RMI on Rainier.<\/p>\n

This was not a guided climb but a group of friends with a common goal.<\/p>\n

Hiking In<\/h3>\n
\"Rainier<\/a>
Barry checking us in at the Ranger Station: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We confirmed our permit and listened carefully as the Ranger spoke of open crevasses, climbers punching through snow bridges and soft snow conditions. Oh, and bears and foxes. We left prepared but thoughtful of what was to come. Barry was typical, blasting out Rush songs with no warning whatsoever.<\/p>\n

At the parking lot for the Glacier Basin trail, we spread our gear out to look for duplication but also to make sure we had the essentials: wands, rope, harness, pickets, screws – everything needed to attempt this 14,409\u2019 hill of snow safely.<\/p>\n

We packed up and headed up the trail. I\u2019m always impressed with the enormous vertical trees surrounding Rainier. Each one has a story to tell, their trunks strong and seemingly impervious to the winds. The small streams cross the trail with the single-minded objective of joining up with a larger flow down below. But as we made the first of several switchbacks, we were greeted with a prize: Rainier, with all her glory, emerged from behind the forest.<\/p>\n

The Emmons Glacier stood out, as did the Winthrop, Liberty Cap and the summit. The crevasses were visible from here, looking like a heap of jumbled ice cubes, cracks and lines that dared the brain to make sense of them, but more to the point, dared the climber to test them.<\/p>\n

\"Rainier<\/a>
Glacier Basin Campground: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We arrived at Glacier Basin camp in a couple of hours. We had purposely set a relaxed schedule, spreading the entire climb from start to finish over four days. We were not out to prove anything with speed, times or bragging rights. Our team objective was to summit, but our objectives varied greatly.<\/p>\n

Lisa wanted to get to Camp Schurman to relax and reflect, but not to summit. Terry, like Barry, wanted to make his first summit of Rainier to test themselves for perhaps bigger climbs one day. Sarah wanted to climb with friends, not as a junior guide under the ever-present eye of members and senior guides.<\/p>\n

I wanted to reconnect with the sport I love, my passion. I wanted to hear my crampons crunch in the snow, watch the sunrise, and feel the cold wind against my cheeks. I wanted to climb. And I wanted to see my friend summit and then return home to tell his family of his experience with the wide eyes of a child who had just done something special.<\/p>\n

To Camp Schurman<\/h3>\n

After an uneventful night at Glacier Basin, we packed up and made our way to the base of the Inter Glacier\u2014the gateway for this route. Only about 25% of all climbing on Rainier is done by the Winthrop-Emmons route, but it accounts for half of the deaths due to the dangerous crevasses. With this in mind, we began our climb with an eye to the crevices. The ranger had told us there was one large open crevasse about halfway up.<\/p>\n

Making decent time ascending the glacier, we soon crested the Inter near Camp Curtis. We took time for a long break and a huge lunch\u2014we were in absolutely no hurry and enjoyed the views and the company. Lisa was generous with her gouda cheese, naan bread and salami. We took full advantage of her generosity!<\/p>\n

Soon, we moved on and slipped a short distance down the scree-filled dirt hillside to the Emmons Glacier. Terry flaked out the climbing rope, and soon, we were roped up as a five-person team. Barry took the lead. I clipped in behind my friend, Sarah, who took the back. We came to our first snow bridge, Barry\u2019s and Lisa\u2019s first ever. With care and smiles, we crossed over safely but soon found ourselves climbing beside a huge open crevasse as we got close to Camp Schurman.<\/p>\n

\"Rainier<\/a>
Crevasse and snow bridge on Emmons Glacier: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I smiled inside as I heard the crunch in the snow, felt my ice axe in my left hand and felt the tug of the rope to my friends. My throat tightened, and my eyes welled with tears.<\/p>\n

Camp Schurman has a seasonal climbing ranger presence and serves as the primary rescue team for climbers on this side of Mt. Rainier. We set up camp and began the endless job of melting snow for water and cooking. I made multiple trips to the snow with the white garbage bag to scoop clean snow while others fired up the stoves. We sat on rocks, watching the snow turn to water, and began to rehydrate our food packets. Stories were told between quiet moments where we reed to private thoughts and dreams.<\/p>\n

As we struggled to get dinner down, other teams arrived: a few commercial teams plus some independents like ourselves. I looked at the guided members with deep admiration, as if they were beginning their journey by learning from more experienced climbers. The guides softly talked them through the climbing process, weather, risks and hard decisions of turning back if needed.<\/p>\n

With the sun still above the summit, we crawled into our sleeping bags, hoping for a few hours of rest before getting up at 11:00 pm for a midnight departure. I fell asleep to the sounds of stoves, chatter and an increasing wind. Without thought, a smile grew as I rolled onto my left side, feeling my toes against the nylon of my down sleeping bag, knowing only an inch of air separated me from the rocks and outside my tiny tent was 5,000 feet of glaciated steep volcano that culminated with a steam filled crater.<\/p>\n

Climbing at Midnight<\/h3>\n
\"Rainier<\/a>
Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

My internal alarm went off at 10:50 pm. I gave myself another minute to come alive and then started the routine I have had for over 20 years on these climbs. I wore a couple of Merino wool tops, my down jacket, socks, long underwear, and Patagonia climbing pants. I pulled on my old-school Kolfachs double plastic boots and crawled out of the tent. I sat on a smooth rock to put on my Black Diamond crampons and harness, I tugged hard on the harness knowing a fall into a crevasse would be life threatening and the harness was my lifeline.<\/p>\n

I looked up at the mountain to see two lights bobbing in unison. One team had already jumped ahead of the rest of us. They were climbing.<\/p>\n

I walked over to the other tents and found Terry. His harness held ice screws, prussic loops, and carabiners\u00a0 – some of the tools needed to climb a glacier safely. But the look on his face betrayed his gear. \u201cHey Terry, how you doin\u2019?\u201d I greeted him. \u201cNot sure,\u201d he said in his usual quiet voice. He was not feeling 100%; something inside told him this was not the night to climb.<\/p>\n

Soon, Barry and Sarah appeared. I boiled some water for hot chocolate and coffee. The other teams were now in full motion. The wind kissed my cheeks. I pulled my down hood up and over my helmet, careful to keep the headlamp clear.<\/p>\n

A caucus began. With few words, Terry opted out. It was now a team of three to attempt the summit. Over dinner, we had decided that Sarah would lead with me in the back and Barry in the \u201crocking chair.\u201d I clipped the figure of eight to my locking carabiner and followed my teammates onto the snow for the Emmons Glacier. My smile was gone; I was focused on the climb. I swung my headlamp right and then left, looking for cracks in the snow.<\/p>\n

We had left camp at 12:30 am.<\/p>\n

\"Rainier<\/a>
Near the summit as the sun rises: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were sandwiched between two commercial teams. Sarah set a steady pace as we reached the corridor. The snow turned to hard ice, requiring our crampons to be plunged into the ground to gain purchase. It seemed like we didn\u2019t go far until a crevasse appeared. The snow bridges were narrow. Old, weak ones straddled each side, revealing that this early July was more like September. The glacier was melting.<\/p>\n

Many boot tracks marked the route, but the clear choice was the one to follow. Steadily, we gained altitude, 10,000, then 11,000 to 12,000, and the eastern horizon began to show signs of the impending sunrise. Smoke from forest fires created a surreal vista. I was getting colder as the warmth from the prior day faded away. We stopped for a break, on with the puffy down jacket, take a drink of water, a bit of food, a picture or two then put the jacket away and return to the steady pace that got us this far.<\/p>\n

The conversation was minimal as our safety rope kept us apart. My mind drifted to climbing Everest, K2 and other peaks. I thought of this past spring and all those lost. What purpose did this sport serve if it took lives with the ease of being in the wrong place at the wrong time? I considered my life path, former, current and future. I was lost in my private world.<\/p>\n

\"Rainier<\/a>
Near the summit as the sun rises: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The sun was now above the horizon. The team ahead was out of sight, and the team behind was moving well. The first of multiple false summits appeared. We had no choice but to continue, focusing on the goal. We were moving well. I had complete confidence we would make the summit.<\/p>\n

Then, my intestines started to gurgle. Ugh, I knew something was not right down there, but this was not the time to stop.\u00a0 The sun was now adding warmth back to my body. We paused for a quick clothing adjustment, off with a layer.<\/p>\n

As we crested one snow slope, the upper horizon changed from white to black\u2014the summit crater. As we approached it, the view transitioned from snow to rocks and ash. I took advantage of the moment to use the infamous blue bags supplied by the park service. Feeling better, I rejoined Barry and Sarah as Barry took the lead to the topmost point on Mt. Rainier, Columbia Crest, one of three \u201csummits\u201d on this West Coast volcano.<\/p>\n

Summit!<\/h3>\n
\"Rainier<\/a>
Summit: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We arrived in solidarity and solitude. The clouds shrouded the summit, obscuring the view, but we didn\u2019t care. With hugs all around and a few selfies, we celebrated the summit. I was so happy for my friends and for myself.<\/p>\n

It didn\u2019t take long for others to join us on top. Our solitude was replaced with bedlam as pictures, hugs, jokes, and celebration took over\u2014all well deserved.<\/p>\n

We left the tippy top to sign the register slightly above the crater. Steam exited the vents, further hiding the view. After all, we were on a volcano! The sun broke through for a moment, shining on Barry. I hugged him, telling him how happy I was for him. He simply smiled.<\/p>\n

We roped back up as we left the summit, Barry in the lead.<\/p>\n

The climb to the summit had taken seven hours. The snow was soft, and the snow bridges were scary. I was apprehensive as we began our descent. I was in the back and, in theory, would stop my teammates from falling into a crevasse if it happened. My old knees were hurting; I was feeling the climb. The view was amazing, with huge crevasses now in full reveal as the sun was bright. The temperature was rising, and the winds were nonexistent. I was climbing. It felt good deep inside.<\/p>\n

We navigated the crevasses we crossed in the dark. Some required a short leap of faith; others were an unceremonious butt scoot. The trash talk resumed, but I was still quiet, knowing that a short section ahead had taken lives in similar conditions – warm temperatures, soft snow and hidden crevasses.<\/p>\n

We approached hour 10 of our climb with sore knees and tired bodies. It was approaching noon, and the sun was hot. As we approached Camp Schurman, Terry and Lisa awaited us with big waves. We got back to camp and enjoyed a warm welcome from our friends, feeling like rock stars.<\/p>\n

Climbing Over the Top<\/h3>\n

The next morning, Sarah suggested we climb down by climbing up and over the Steamboat Prow, a 600-foot rock outcropping that protects Camp Schurman. For Lisa, this would be her highlight\u2014doing some serious rock scrambling at 10,000 feet. For everyone else, it was just downright fun.<\/p>\n

\"Rainier<\/a>
Climbing up the Steamboat Prow: Rainier July 2015<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After surmounting this alternative route, we arrived at the top of the Inter Glacier. We decided to glissade the entire 2,500-foot glacier! I welcomed this move, as my knees were seriously aching now.<\/p>\n

Few start from this high, and we had a ball. Screaming and laughing like kids in winter, we made our way down, pausing at times to make sure our path was safe from crevasses. A commercial guide stopped us halfway down to give us a stern warning that what we were doing was dangerous. In all, we sincerely thanked him for his concern and continued with a new eye for caution.<\/p>\n

Once we reached the base of the Inter Glacier, we hiked back to the cars, where we had a celebratory beer or three and shared our climb’s highs and lows.<\/p>\n

Climbing Rainier for the third time was like my first. Climbing is my passion, but seeing a close friend achieve his goal is better than any of my personal goals. Rainer is such a worthy goal and a mountain to be respected.<\/p>\n

We saw two young climbers in camo heading up at 10:00 a.m. in soft and dangerous snow conditions. Sarah gently gave them some advice as to the dangers. I told them to turn back. But they continued, summited, returned to cheers at Schurman, and then returned to their cars because they had to work the next day. While they proved they were strong, I think they were foolhardy.<\/p>\n

Take it if you can climb Rainier by any route, guided or independent. You don\u2019t have to spend thousands of dollars to travel to Nepal, Peru or even Alaska – Rainier has it all.<\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

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