{"id":21608,"date":"2015-10-01T10:45:21","date_gmt":"2015-10-01T16:45:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=21608"},"modified":"2019-04-06T12:28:29","modified_gmt":"2019-04-06T18:28:29","slug":"updates-from-autumn-himalayan-climbs-another-everest-attempt-manaslu-summits","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2015\/10\/01\/updates-from-autumn-himalayan-climbs-another-everest-attempt-manaslu-summits\/","title":{"rendered":"autumn Himalayan Update:  Another Everest Attempt, Manaslu Summits"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;ve learned\u00a0to never say never when\u00a0following Himalayan climbs. Several teams who left the mountain may be looking back with questions after others stayed,     leveraged\u00a0the previous work and went on to summit Manaslu,   54\u00a0out of the 106 foreigners with permits made the summit\u00a0along with another 29 Sherpas.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps with more incentive to prove Nepal is safe for mountaineering, most\u00a0the teams that summited Manaslu\u00a0were Nepali operated teams while the Western owned teams felt it was too risky to continue.<\/p>\n<p>And\u00a0Japanese <a href=\"http:\/\/www.kurikiyama.jp\/#!everest2015\/c246g\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nobukazu Kuriki<\/a>, on Everest is saying he will give it another try.<\/p>\n<h3>Manaslu &#8211; Summits\u00a0for\u00a0the\u00a0<\/h3>\n<p>The Sherpas from Himex and Altitude Junkies\u00a0worked hard for several weeks to put\u00a0in the route to Camp 3 before abandoning the expeditions based on deep snow, soft snow bridges, crevasses and avalanche danger. But the route was in through the crux.<\/p>\n<p>Himex, Altitude Junkies and Adventure Consultants leaders made the decision the mountain was not safe and\u00a038 returned to Kathmandu. \u00a0One Himex Sherpa\u00a0fell into a crevasse, was rescued but not seriously injured.<\/p>\n<p>However other teams stayed taking the risk and it paid off.\u00a0Seven Summits International, out of Nepal, went\u00a0on to put two separate teams\u00a0on the summit within 24 hours totaling 27 . From their <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/profile.php?id=100005045050899\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook<\/a> page:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>&#8220;Seven Summit Treks Mt.Manaslu International expedition Team&#8221; On 30th September 2015, once again summit Mt. Manaslu 8163m Successfully. It&#8217;s the 1st Summit success over above 8000m mountain after the recent destructive earthquake in Nepal. Since we had a lager team, we had decided to break down the team into 2 Group for summit push.This is Summit success by our 1st Team \u20139 Members and 6 Climbing Sherpa Guide in total 15 Person. As reported by Chhang Dawa Sherpa, team Manag<span class=\"text_exposed_show\">er and director of Seven Summit Treks, Mr. Santiago Quintero from Ecuador, Victor Hugo Rimac from Peru, Daniel Stuart Trevena from Australia, Cheji Norbu Sherpa from Nepal, Mingma Thenduk Sherpa from Nepal and more other team members summit Mt. Manaslu.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>and<\/p>\n<p>Seven summit international manaslu expedition 2015 second team summit manaslu-8163m today at 5:00am congratulation to for whole<a href=\"http:\/\/www.sevensummittreks.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\">www.sevensummittreks.com<\/a> team 100% succes<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Other teams with Manaslu success included\u00a0Ascent Himalaya, Thamserku Trekking, Active Holiday Nepal Treks, and Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks\u00a0according to this report in the <a href=\"http:\/\/thehimalayantimes.com\/nepal\/at-least-73-climbers-including-first-bulgarian-summit-mt-manaslu\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Himalayan Times<\/a>. SummitClimb\u00a0put 5 on the summit, and Amical out of Germany with 5 \u00a0summiteers were only Western owned operators to summit this season.<\/p>\n<p>Guy Cotter, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.adventureconsultants.com\/adventure\/Manaslu_Dispatches2015\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Adventure Consultants<\/a>, summed up his decision:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>There are several teams poised to make a summit attempt in the next few days, and perhaps, if they are lucky, they may avoid the hazards and achieve success. But for us, the conditions surpass the threshold that we perceive is acceptable risk and hence we will make a humble departure from the mountain for this season. This isn&#8217;t an &#8216;easy&#8217; decision for us but it feels like the right one, even if it does mean failure in reaching the summit.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Makalu &#8211;\u00a0Over<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/alpenglowexp\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Adrian Ballinger <\/a>tweeted that their\u00a0attempt to be the first to ski from the\u00a0summit of Makalu was over.:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Push is over and no summit reached. We did ski from a new high point. And everyone safe after some very real avys above 8k.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3>Dhaulagiri &#8211; Climbing<\/h3>\n<p>A small team lead by French Alpinist <a href=\"http:\/\/www.yannick-expedition2015.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Yannick Graziani<\/a> is moving up on Dhaulagiri (26794&#8217;\/8167m) on their acclimatization rotations.<\/p>\n<h3>Everest &#8211;\u00a0Another Attempt<\/h3>\n<p>Japanese <a href=\"http:\/\/www.kurikiyama.jp\/#!everest2015\/c246g\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nobukazu Kuriki<\/a>, is saying he will try for the summit again\u00a0this weekend. He turned back around 7700 meters due to deep snow a few days ago He will be better acclimatized this\u00a0time but the snow conditions will most likely be the same. He intends to start his summit push from Camp 3 around 7700 meters rather than the traditional 8000m at the South Col.<\/p>\n<p>He climbs alone without using supplemental\u00a0oxygen. He is on his fifth attempt to summit Everest, he lost\u00a0nine of his finger tips in 2012 on an attempt via the west Ridge. \u00a0He posted on his <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/kurikiyama\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook<\/a>:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>After descending to the base camp, I&#8217;m resting right now.\u00a0Because I had 1 meal a day and spent 3 days in higher altitude than 7500m, I lost some weight and got bad skin condition, which is a correct reaction of my body to the altitude that human cannot live in.<\/p>\n<p>But my heart keeps beating, and I&#8217;m ready to climb again to the summit of Everest.\u00a0I&#8217;m going to rest a few days in the base camp and start climbing again.<\/p>\n<div class=\"text_exposed_show\">\n<p>I was a little below the south col (7900m) but decided to descend because deep snow clung up to my lower back.\u00a0Normally, climbers go up to south col through Lhotse Face, but I climbed from left area of the route like I did in 2011.<\/p>\n<p>It is because I felt risk of avalanche in Lhotse Face.\u00a0The route I climbed in left had much deeper snow but less risk of avalanche.\u00a0Also, I will be able to lower altitude quicker when I descend.\u00a0There is deep snow, but it allowed me to pitch a tent in stable position.<\/p>\n<p>When I reach camp 4 next time, I will leave the luggage to my tent and climb up to south col to make a route and come back to the tent.\u00a0Then the next day, I&#8217;ll start summit push from the camp 4.<\/p>\n<p>The reason why I don&#8217;t set a tent up in the south col is because it&#8217;s hard to climb in deep snow having tent without oxygen tank.\u00a0Also, it&#8217;s too much burden to my body to stay in 7900m of south col after reaching the summit.<\/p>\n<p>I think it&#8217;s better for me to pitch a tent at 7600m and climb with light luggage and descend to lower altitude.<\/p>\n<p>After I have good rest, I&#8217;ll start climbing again.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>Best of luck to him.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;ve learned\u00a0to never say never when\u00a0following Himalayan climbs. Several teams who left the mountain may be looking back with questions after others [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":16976,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Over 83 climbers have summited Manaslu when others turned back. Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki is going for another try to summit Everest, alone with no O's after thwarted attempt last week.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,545],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-21608","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-weekend-update"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/IMG_0264-003.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21608","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=21608"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21608\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/16976"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=21608"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=21608"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=21608"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}