{"id":22503,"date":"2016-04-24T03:11:30","date_gmt":"2016-04-24T09:11:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=22503"},"modified":"2020-04-28T12:05:45","modified_gmt":"2020-04-28T18:05:45","slug":"everestlhotse-2016-cwm-first-rotation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/04\/24\/everestlhotse-2016-cwm-first-rotation\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest\/Lhotse 2016: Into the Cwm for First Rotation"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Time has\u00a0come to leave Everest Base Camp for our team&#8217;s acclimatization rotation to Camp 1 and Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. The purpose for this is to naturally change our blood chemistry to better deal with the lower level of oxygen molecules available at the higher altitudes. <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">The available oxygen at base camp is half that of sea level and on the summit of Everest, it drops to one -third. Using supplemental oxygen reduces the effective altitude felt by the body by about 1, 000 meters so acclimatizing is key to climbing any large mountain.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">We will leave tonight at 1:00 am and travel\u00a0through the Khumbu Icefall in the dark of night when the temperatures are the coldest to minimize\u00a0exposure to the moving ice and hanging seracs that have threatened\u00a0climbers\u00a0in the Icefall for decades.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Many teams have already\u00a0made this journey this year with no issues.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">We will spend one night at Camp1 and three or four at Camp 2. During this time we will climb up the Lhotse Face, perhaps as high as Camp 3\u00a0at 23,500, but not spend\u00a0the night as some other teams do. On my previous climbs of Everest (note I am climbing\u00a0Lhotse this year -not Everest), I have spent a miserable night at C3. It was considered &#8220;paying your dues&#8221; in the old school mantra of &#8220;climb high, sleep low&#8221; approach to acclimatization.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">While some expeditions\u00a0still try to get that night in at C3, others feel it is too much of an energy drain\u00a0and the short time at that altitude does not really accomplish\u00a0much in terms of acclimatization. Personally, I think this is extremely individual and there is no blanket rule. However, I can say that by reaching 7000 meters or higher before heading\u00a0to the summit later, is a huge boost in confidence so there is value.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Early reports have\u00a0the Lhotse Face very icy and hard. The route is expected\u00a0to swing to the climber&#8217;s right near the base and avoid\u00a0the rock-fall prone face. This is similar to 2012 that also had a dry winter and is the same\u00a0route used by the first Everest summit\u00a0team in 1953.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">The jet stream has moved back on top of Everest the last couple\u00a0of days, all the way down to the mid-7000-meter\u00a0level. As I write this at EBC, the winds are gusty. Teams at C2 are reporting\u00a0strong cold winds.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">I will try to post an audio dispatch via satellite phone during the next 5 or 6 days since\u00a0there is no internet connection up there (thank goodness \ud83d\ude42 ) \u00a0I&#8217;ll post a\u00a0 complete\u00a0report upon\u00a0my return.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">All is on schedule for Everest south right\u00a0now. The teams on\u00a0Tibet have just arrived and appear to be running a week or so late but this should not be a problem\u00a0as the season\u00a0runs later\u00a0on that side as they do not have to deal with the melting Icefall.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">It&#8217;s way too early to predict when the first summits may occur, but historically May 19- \u00a021 has been the top few days on the south.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Finally, April 25 is the one year anniversary of the Nepal avalanche that killed over 9000 and made millions homeless. I was walking to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm last year when it hit. As I climb tomorrow, the day will not be lost on me and millions of others around\u00a0the world.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Climb On!<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Alan<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Memories are Everything<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Time has\u00a0come to leave Everest Base Camp for our team&#8217;s acclimatization rotation to Camp 1 and Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":22467,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"We will leave at 1:00 am for our acclimatization rotation to C1 and C2 in the Western Cwm. #everest2016 continues on schedule.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[460,463],"tags":[461,464],"class_list":["post-22503","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-everest-2016-coverage","category-lhotse-2016","tag-everest-2016-coverage","tag-lhotse-2016-climb"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - 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