{"id":24245,"date":"2016-08-08T16:55:57","date_gmt":"2016-08-08T22:55:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=24245"},"modified":"2016-08-11T20:01:39","modified_gmt":"2016-08-12T02:01:39","slug":"k2-and-karakorum-2016-wrap-up","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/08\/08\/k2-and-karakorum-2016-wrap-up\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 and Karakorum 2016 Wrap-Up"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>It looks like most of\u00a0the attempts on the major 8000 meter and surrounding peaks\u00a0in Northern Pakistan have\u00a0come to an end this summer season. A small Czech team continues to wait out weather on GI. You can follow them on their <a href=\"http:\/\/blog.hudy.cz\/udalosti\/marek-holecek-gasherbrum-2016-zapisky-z-expedice\/\" target=\"_blank\">blog<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>2016 will go down as another year with no summits of K2 and only a few for\u00a0the other\u00a0peaks. Similar to 2015,   weather and snow conditions stopped many efforts. It appears that\u00a0climbing\u00a0the world&#8217;s 8000 meter mountains\u00a0have become more unpredictable and difficult over the last few years.<\/p>\n<p>As previously noted,   it is a busy season on K2 but the other peaks\u00a0seem to be about normal for permits. This is a list of the\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Karakorum-2016-Expeditions-1.pdf\">Karakorum 2016 Expeditions<\/a>\u00a0permits that were issued for all the Karakoram mountains this summer. The summary is:<\/p>\n<table class=\" aligncenter\" style=\"width: 320px; height: 358px;\">\n<tbody>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><strong>Peak<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><strong>Permits<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><strong>Summits<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">Gasherbrum I<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">3<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">8<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">Gasherbrum II<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">6<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">8<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">Gasherbrum I &amp; II<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">28<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">Gasherbrum IV<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">2<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\"><strong>Total\u00a0Gasherbrums<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><strong>39<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><strong>18<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">Nanga Parbat<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">19<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">3<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">Broad Peak<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">19<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">2<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">K2 &amp; Broad Peak<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">60<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\"><strong>K2<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><strong>62<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><strong>0<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">K2 Total<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">112<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 24px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 160px; height: 24px;\">other permits<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 66px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">25<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 74px; text-align: center; height: 24px;\">?<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Lets start with those peaks that saw teams summit:<\/p>\n<h3>Nanga Parbat: 3 Summits<\/h3>\n<p>At 26,660&#8217;\/8126m Nanga is known to be one of the more technical 8000ers. There were several teams attempting by different\u00a0routes but only the international team lead by Spaniard\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ferranlatorre.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Ferran Latorre<\/a>, with Frenchman H\u00e9lias Millerioux and Bulgarian Boyjan Petrov\u00a0summited via the standard\u00a0route aka Kinshofer route on the\u00a0Diamir Face.<\/p>\n<p>Latorre only has Everest to summit (hopefully in 2017) to complete all 14 of the 8000ers without supplemental Os. Petrov is also on track with eight of the 14 thus far.<\/p>\n<p>They posted this nice video approaching the summit:<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/176447131\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3>Gasherbrum II: 8 Summits<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/13645351_853725668092867_8598729591377533594_n.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-24255\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/13645351_853725668092867_8598729591377533594_n-225x169.jpg\" alt=\"Gasherbrum II\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/13645351_853725668092867_8598729591377533594_n-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/13645351_853725668092867_8598729591377533594_n-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/13645351_853725668092867_8598729591377533594_n-640x480.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/13645351_853725668092867_8598729591377533594_n.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>At 26,362&#8217;\/8035m. GII is often considered the most attainable of\u00a0the Karakoram&#8217;s 8000ers. There have been about 334\u00a0summits of GI and 930\u00a0of GII.<\/p>\n<p>My Colorado\u00a0climbing buddy, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ryan.kushner.5?fref=ts\" target=\"_blank\">Ryan Kushner<\/a> and teammates Lee Jennings and Kelly Soohoo summited\u00a0GII on 26 July 2016.<\/p>\n<p>There were five other summiteers\u00a0that same day\u00a0including\u00a0Dawa Gyalje Sherpa &#8211; Nepal,\u00a0Ali Reza Sadpara &#8211; Pakistan,\u00a0Liu Yongzhong &#8211; China,\u00a0<span class=\"text_exposed_show\">Armaan Haddad &#8211; Iran and\u00a0Endong Cui &#8211; Canada.<\/span><span class=\"text_exposed_show\"><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p>They threaded yet another narrow weather window only to be caught at the last camp\u00a0<span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">before BC to wait out heavy snow. Congratulations to all these climbers for a no Os summit.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3>Gasherbrum I: 8 Summits<\/h3>\n<p>Mingma Sherpa of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/?fref=nf\" target=\"_blank\">Dreamers Destination<\/a> based\u00a0out of Nepal\u00a0posted that a team of 8 summited GI on 4 August:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Now I am on the summit of Gasherbrun-I with my team. 1. Mingma Gyalje Sherpa 2. Dawa Gyalje Sherpa 3. Dakipa Sherpa 4. Ali Reza Sadpara 5. Zhang Liang 6. Liu Youngzhong 7. Dong Hongjuan \u00a0+1 german Stefan<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Three of this summit team, Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Ali Reza Sadpara and Liu Yongzhong\u00a0also reached the top of GII on 26 July.<\/p>\n<h3>Broad Peak: 2 Summits<\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_24253\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24253\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/540.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-24253\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/540-225x169.jpg\" alt=\"Ale\u0161 ?esen and Luka Lindi? at North Summit. Courtesy: PZS (Planinska Zveza Slovenije)\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/540-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/540-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/540.jpg 540w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-24253\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ale\u0161 ?esen and Luka Lindi? at North Summit. Courtesy: PZS (Planinska Zveza Slovenije)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Broad Peak continued to play hard for almost everyone. Last year only one climber snuck to the top in a narrow window and similarly this year on 29 June 2016 two Slovenians\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/llindic?fref=ts\" target=\"_blank\">Luka Lindic<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/ales%20cesen\/\" target=\"_blank\">Ales  \u010cesen<\/a>\u00a0summited on a day when others turned back. They\u00a0summited with no Os or fixed ropes.<\/p>\n<p>There seems to be a trend in the Karakoram\u00a0that if your hesitate you might miss an opportunity, however, this same practice of pushing it in narrow weather windows\u00a0have resulted in many deaths over the years.<\/p>\n<p>Of note was that 79 permits were issued this year for BP, 60 of those for the ambitious double that many people plan (and operators sell) but few ever accomplish. As we saw, K2 is hard enough, much less adding BP in the mix. Same goes for those wanti<span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">ng to double GI and GII. For those who pull it off, they deserve all the admiration they receive.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3>Gasherbrum IV: 2 Summits<\/h3>\n<p>Speaking\u00a0of ambitious and deserving of rewards,\u00a0the two Slovenians,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/llindic?fref=ts\" target=\"_blank\">Luka Lindic<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/ales%20cesen\/\" target=\"_blank\">Ales  \u010cesen<\/a>,\u00a0went on to reach the North Summit of G IV, only 20 meters shy of the true summit. They climbed via the Northwest ridge. They had planned on climbing the &#8216;Shining Wall&#8217; on Gasherbrum IV, 7982 meters\/26,197 feet, a feat on twice accomplished\u00a0&#8211; 1985 and 1997. Similar to conditions across Northern Pakistan, deep snow thwarted their plans.<\/p>\n<h3>K2: No Summits<\/h3>\n<p>With 112 climbing\u00a0permits issued, a record, K2 was expected to be crowded this year, and it was. There were several reports of waiting for up to two hours to climb\u00a0Houses Chimney plus juggling the limited real estate for tents at Camps 1 and\u00a02.<\/p>\n<p>With one summit attempt stopped by bad weather, most of the teams targeted another somewhat narrow window around July 26 for a summit. But an expect<span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">ed, albeit stronger than forecasted, weather event dumped a lot of snow as climbers were at their Camps 1 and 2.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_24254\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24254\" style=\"width: 162px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/26-Screenshot-of-K2-Photos.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-24254 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/26-Screenshot-of-K2-Photos-162x225.jpg\" alt=\"Photo courtesy of Muhammad Ali, of Masherbrum Treks &amp; Tours and AltitudePakistan Blog\" width=\"162\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/26-Screenshot-of-K2-Photos-162x225.jpg 162w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/26-Screenshot-of-K2-Photos-345x480.jpg 345w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/26-Screenshot-of-K2-Photos.jpg 460w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 162px) 100vw, 162px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-24254\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of Muhammad Ali, of Masherbrum Treks &amp; Tours and AltitudePakistan Blog<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Then on July 23 a major avalanche\u00a0that could have begun above Camp 4, swept away Camps 3 and 4 along with tents, oxygen bottles, food as well as burying the fixed ropes already in place.<\/p>\n<p>The commercial teams of\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/KoblerPartner\" target=\"_blank\">Kari Kobler<\/a>\u00a0made an almost immediate decision to abort their season with the Nepal outfitter for independent climbers, \u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/profile.php?id=100005045050899&amp;pnref=story.unseen-section\" target=\"_blank\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a>\u00a0with 44 members on their K2\/Broad Peak permit quickly following suit. Given these three teams had the majority of Sherpa and Pakistani High Altitude Porters to fix the route, other teams were left to consider their options.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.adventurepeaks.com\/author\/digilbert\/\" target=\"_blank\">Adventure Peaks<\/a>\u00a0along with the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Polski-Himalaizm-Zimowy-2010-2015-161618080550304\/?fref=nf\" target=\"_blank\">Polish team <\/a>met with the smaller teams including <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/vobonline?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\">Vanessa O&#8217;brien<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nickrice.us\" target=\"_blank\">Nick Rice<\/a>. They looked at the options of an alpine attempt, hiring the Sherpas and HAPS from other expeditions but in the end decided they could not make\u00a0it without the support of\u00a0the larger teams.<\/p>\n<p>2016 saw an interesting\u00a0twist in the commercialization of K2 with large commercial\u00a0operators bringing a significant number of Sherpas from Nepal and individual climbers on their own permit also\u00a0bringing an unusually large ratio of Nepal Sherpas to support them. Similar\u00a0to what now occurs on Everest each year, the support staff outnumbers the aspiring climbers.<\/p>\n<p>Mountaineering officials in Pakistan are starting to take a harder stand on &#8216;importing&#8217; climbing support as it is seen as a threat to their own local support resources.<\/p>\n<p>Thankfully, there were no injuries or deaths attributed to this year&#8217;s \u00a0avalanche, but just like last year, there were no summits. It will be interesting to see who attempts K2 next summer and if the commercial operators can\u00a0find enough members willing to pay $35,000 to $55,000 each while the no-frills expeditions run well under $20,000 and even half that if the individual assumes support from other teams.<\/p>\n<p>Next up for K2 is perhaps another winter attempt lead by the world-class Polish climbers amongst others. K2 remains the only 8000 meter mountain without a winter summit. Nanga was the most recent peak to fall in the winter. K2\u00a0has been attempted several times including in 1987\/88, 2002\/3 and 2011\/12.\u00a0Visit\u00a0this <a href=\"http:\/\/altitudepakistan.blogspot.com\/2014\/11\/history-of-winter-climbing-k2.html\" target=\"_blank\">link<\/a> for an excellent overview of the attempts.<\/p>\n<p>Congratulations to all regardless of the result. It was a tough summer\u00a0in the big mountains, lets hope autumn is a bit kinder.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It looks like most of\u00a0the attempts on the major 8000 meter and surrounding peaks\u00a0in Northern Pakistan have\u00a0come to an end this summer [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":24126,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"K2 and Karakoram summer climbing season is about over with only a few summits across the range. K2 had a record 112 permits and 0 summits.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-24245","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/13680830_635576659953830_378056688920321186_n-e1469288667223.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24245","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=24245"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24245\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/24126"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=24245"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=24245"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=24245"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}