{"id":24581,"date":"2016-10-10T04:01:24","date_gmt":"2016-10-10T10:01:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=24581"},"modified":"2016-10-13T15:24:57","modified_gmt":"2016-10-13T21:24:57","slug":"autumn-himalayan-climbing-second-half","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/10\/10\/autumn-himalayan-climbing-second-half\/","title":{"rendered":"autumn Himalayan Climbing – Second Half"},"content":{"rendered":"

With all the 8000er climbs over, the autumn Himalayan climbing season shifts to the lower 7,000 meter peaks including Ama Dablam. Also, the first Ascent of Burke Khang is still on as other first ascent attempts have ended.<\/p>\n

\"Nobukazu<\/a>
Nobukazu Kuriki<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Everest – over<\/h3>\n

But first some house cleaning on the Everest attempts. Both Everest teams of Kilian Jornet<\/a> and\u00a0Nobukazu Kuriki<\/a>\u00a0have ended their attempts from Tibet due to deep snow on the North Face. Jornet never started his summit push and Kurki stopped at 7400 meters on his. There is a small chance that Kurki will try again, but unlikely. I’ll keep you updated.<\/p>\n

UPDATE<\/strong>: 13 OCt ’16: It appears\u00a0Nobukazu Kuriki has ended his Everest attempt from Tibet via the Hornbein Couloir or the normal route. He posted on Facebook<\/a> he spent 11 days at Camp1 (normal route) and\u00a0also experienced waist deep snow on the North Face. Also high winds were buffeting Everest creating concern for safety and success. He was climbing alone and without supplemental oxygen.<\/p>\n

Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Shishapangma, Dhaulagiri – over<\/h3>\n

These 8000ers are popular in the autumn season. Both\u00a0Cho Oyu and Manaslu saw a large number of summits with Manaslu\u00a0setting a single season record of over 150 summits.<\/p>\n

Shishapangma, with\u00a0notoriously difficult weather stopped the only team attempting it, RMI, after one of their Sherpas was killed in an avalanche.\u00a0Dhaulagiri also had only one team, Altitude Junkies, and they were stopped by deep snow.<\/p>\n

The late monsoon has made it difficult for all teams on all of the peaks.<\/p>\n

First Ascent Attempts<\/h3>\n

Tenzing and Hillary Peaks – over<\/strong><\/p>\n

Canadian Elia Saikaly<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Pasang Kaji Sherpa have ended their\u00a0first ascent attempt on two recently opened\u00a0points along the\u00a0ridge between Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang of\u00a0Tenzing Peak (7,916 m) and Hillary Peak (7,681 m).\u00a0They ended their effort due to difficult conditions.<\/p>\n

Burke Khang – just starting<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bill Burke, the oldest American to summit Everest and live, announced he is returning to\u00a0attempt a first ascent of a peak named after him by the Nepal Government. \u00a0He attempted it last year but found the summit blocked by opposing cornices. I wrote an long article<\/a> about their attempt last year. He and David Liano are on their way to Nepal.<\/p>\n

7000 meter Peaks<\/h3>\n
\"Ama<\/a>
Ama Dablam<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nepal is extremely popular for climbs of the so called “Trekking Peaks” of Island and Meru plus the more difficult climbs of Ama Dablam\u00a0(6,812m\/22,349\u00a0ft) and Cholatse (6,440m\/21,130ft). The usual suspects\u00a0are\u00a0guiding on these this\u00a0season.<\/p>\n

Ama Dablam is often called the most beautiful peak in the world, but Alpa Mayo also\u00a0claims that title. I have climbed both and would call it a draw!<\/p>\n

Ama Dablam has experienced dramatic changes in the last ten years not only in topology but also by attracting crowds. When I summited<\/a> it in 2000, we were the only team on the mountain. Today there can be 300 people on the peak at one time.<\/p>\n

There have been several attempts<\/a> in the past three years to summit via the North Ridge instead of the standard\u00a0South East Ridge, but there has been no success.<\/p>\n

Ama has emerged as a dangerous climb. Six climbers were killed in November 2006 when part of the Dablam collapsed hitting Camp 3. Parts\u00a0of the\u00a0\u00a0Dablam also collapsed in late 2008 but didn’t take any lives. In 2014, three climbers were killed when the Dablam released but some say they were depending on\u00a0old ropes<\/a> and that contributed to their deaths.<\/p>\n

Today, teams continue to climb but many choose to bypass Camp 3 and have a very, very long day from\u00a0Camp 2 to the summit but some guides have stopped climbing Ama Dablam all together due to the danger.<\/p>\n

\"Cholatse\"<\/a>
Cholatse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cholatse located between the Khumbu and\u00a0Gokyo Valleys, has emerged as an alternative to Ama with less danger. Phil Crampton<\/a>, Altitude Junkies,\u00a0 calls it his favorite Himalayan climb. The Nepal\u00a0based guides\u00a0are there with sufficient demand. Adventure Consultants also runs trips\u00a0there seasonally.<\/p>\n

Mark Horrell<\/a> has an excellent report on his summit in 2014. This quote may\u00a0sum it all up:<\/p>\n

Despite being officially classed as a trekking peak by the Nepal Mountaineering Association, Cholatse is likely to be the hardest technical climb I have ever done.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Best of luck to all.<\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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