{"id":24624,"date":"2016-10-23T14:34:21","date_gmt":"2016-10-23T20:34:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=24624"},"modified":"2016-12-12T15:37:32","modified_gmt":"2016-12-12T22:37:32","slug":"24624","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2016\/10\/23\/24624\/","title":{"rendered":"Climber Deaths: Junko Tabei, Mike Powell – Different Worlds, Same Love"},"content":{"rendered":"

This past week two climbers died. They\u00a0were about as different as they could be:\u00a0Junko Tabei<\/a>\u00a0and Michael Powell<\/a>.\u00a0Why do I write this post? These two represent\u00a0ends of the climbing spectrum. People who embraced the sport, and motivated others. Now, thru their deaths, they are shining a light on ambition, achievement and acknowledgement.<\/p>\n

Junko Tabei 1939-2016<\/h3>\n
\"Junko<\/a>
Junko Tabei courtsey of Japan Times<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For many people, Junko is a familiar name as she was the first woman to summit Mt. Everest. She died this past week of peritoneal cancer at age 77.<\/p>\n

Junko was introduced to the mountains at age 10 by her fourth grade teacher when they summited a\u00a0nearby volcano Mount Nasu in Japan. Her\u00a0climbing accelerated\u00a0in 1962 after graduating from Showa Women\u2019s University in Tokyo. In her twenties her life became defined with her climbing passion but also thru inspiring other women\u00a0to tackle the male dominated sport.<\/p>\n

Leading Lady \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

In 1969, she founded\u00a0the Ladies Climbing Club. Very telling was their slogan: “Let\u2019s go on an overseas expedition by ourselves”. She was often criticized by men in Japan telling her she should stay at home, take care\u00a0of her husband and have babies. One of her first big summits was in 1970, Annapurna III (7,555m) thus\u00a0becoming the first Japanese woman to reach that summit. That accomplishment lead to thoughts of Everest.<\/p>\n

In 1975 she took charge\u00a0as\u00a0the climbing\u00a0leader of\u00a0an all-female Japanese team to Everest. her sub\u00a0team of 15 aligned with the UN’s “International Women’s Year” and found sponsors with Japanese TV and newspapers. Still Junko\u00a0spent the equivalent of a year’s income to finance her climb. She left her three-year old daughter at home with her husband.<\/p>\n

Everest Near Death<\/strong><\/p>\n

Following the traditional Southeast Ridge aka South Col route, the team reached 6,300m, well above the Khumbu Icefall when an avalanche hit the team. Junko was buried for six minutes and lost\u00a0consciousness. She was dug out by the Sherpas who were supporting the climb.<\/p>\n

She dealt with the unexpected at the Cornice-Traverse leads to the Hillary Step. This is the most exposed section of a Southeast Ridge climb. On one side it is 8,000 ft down the southwest face and on the other, the Kangshung face, a 11,000 ft drop. \u00a0She told the Japan Times:<\/p>\n

\u201cI had no idea I would have to face that, even though I\u2019d read all the accounts of previous expeditions,\u201d Tabei recalled recently at her office in Tokyo. \u201cI got so angry at the previous climbers who hadn\u2019t warned me about that knife-edge traverse in their expedition records.\u201d<\/p>\n

But there was no turning back. With her eyes fixed on the end of the ridge, Tabei slowly and carefully crawled along sideways, gripping it with her hands as she kept her her upper body on the Chinese side while her lower body was on the Nepalese side, and she tried to get some grip by kicking her crampon points into the ice. \u201cI had never felt that tense in my entire life,\u201d Tabei said. \u201cI felt all my hair standing on end.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Junko went on to summit Mt Everest\u00a0that day,\u00a0\u00a0May 16, 1975 establishing herself as one of the greatest female climbers of that\u00a0time.<\/p>\n

Continuing her passion for climbing, she went on to become the first woman to summit the 7 Summits. Her last summit was\u00a0Mt. Fuji in 2011 with a group of high school students. Her goal was to summit the highest peak in 190 countries. She had reached the summits of the highest peaks of 56 countries as of March 2008.<\/p>\n

Giving Back<\/strong><\/p>\n

Seeing how climbing was growing so rapidly, Junko became concerned about\u00a0the environmental impact, especially on Everest. In 2000, she completed her master’s thesis on the trash problem on Everest.<\/p>\n

In 2003, as an honored guest at the 50th anniversary parade for the first Everest summit, she was quoted as saying\u00a0\u201cEverest has become too crowded. It needs a rest now\u201d. She became\u00a0the\u00a0director of the Himalayan Adventure Trust of Japan dedicated to preserve mountain environments including\u00a0an building an incinerator to burn climbers’ trash\u00a0on Everest. She also led “clean-up” climbs in Japan and the Himalayas.<\/p>\n

Born in 1939 in the farming village of Miraru, about 140 miles north of Tokyo, she died on October 20, 2016 in a hospital in Kawagoe\u00a0after being diagnosed with cancer in 2012. She leaves\u00a0her husband and a daughter and son.<\/p>\n

American climber, Ellen Miller<\/a> who is the only American female climber to summit Everest from\u00a0both sides and summit Lhotse and Nuptse told me:<\/p>\n

This saddens me deeply. I had wonderful chats over tea with her in Kathmandu. So humble, so gracious, so classy. No ego. RIP Junko.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Junko\u00a0told the Japan Times <\/a>in 2011 at age 72 :<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019ve never felt like stopping climbing \u2014 and I never will \u2014 even when I myself have seen people killed in accidents in the mountains,\u201d she said. \u201cOf course every time it happens it\u2019s really shocking, but it will never stop me climbing.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Michael Powell 1980 – 2016<\/h3>\n

While\u00a0I never met Junko, I did know Mike.<\/p>\n

Michael Powell<\/a>\u00a0died this week while descending from the summit of Mt. Whitney in California, the highest peak in the lower 48 States at 14,405 feet. Mike lived in Irvine, California and was a professional photographer<\/a>,\u00a0musician and graphic artists.<\/p>\n

The details are coming out and it appears that Mike fell, while off-route, in the dark above Mirror Lake, an area known for being dangerous with difficult route finding especially at night. Inyo Search and Rescue and China Lake Mountain Rescue Group retrieved his body.<\/span><\/p>\n

Partner Inspiration<\/strong><\/p>\n

His climbing partner that day, Angelia Blas<\/a>, posted:<\/p>\n

Well, Mike…we did it! On Oct 17, we stood atop the highest peak in the contiguous United States and had the summit all to ourselves! You fell in love with the Sierras immediately, were crazy excited about Whitney, didn’t doubt our ability to summit, and even kept me in check on and off trail.<\/p>\n

You always mentioned that hiking was therapeutic for you. I remember you getting emotional after passing Trail Crest because you knew we would make it, finally. At the summit, you gave me a huge hug with the biggest smile on your face. You wanted it so badly and I’m so so proud of you! <\/span><\/p>\n

I’ll be forever grateful that hiking caused our paths to cross in life. It’s clear that you’ve touched countless lives near and far, whether you knew it or not. We all miss you already, Mike…but know that you’re still with us. You’re our Trail Angel now. ??<\/span> WE LOVE YOU, MIKE \"\"??<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

New Love<\/strong><\/p>\n

Oh my, what a tragic loss of a wonderful and inspiring 36 year-old. He had discovered hiking and climbing a few years ago and was pursuing his new passion with boundless energy and amazing enthusiasm. He was tuning his body, tuning his knowledge and tuning his skills. From messages to me, I can tell you being in nature made him feel alive.<\/p>\n

While standing on the summit of the 14er this week, I thought deeply about Mike\u2019s last message to me “Alan I’d like to plan a climb to a 14er in 2017 with you.\u201d<\/p>\n

Disbelief<\/b><\/p>\n

His mother, Lynda Everman<\/a> is understandably in a state of disbelief. She knew he was following his dream and destiny.<\/p>\n

Lynda and I have much in common, including losing loved ones to Alzheimer\u2019s. She hesitates to use the trite phrase about when someone dies doing what they love, but in Mike’s case it is appropriate.<\/p>\n

As I mentioned to Lynda, it’s almost impossible to understand why this happened to Mike at such a pivotal point in his life.<\/p>\n

Gifts of Life<\/strong><\/p>\n

While perhaps no solace, the outpouring of love from Mike\u2019s huge circle is amazing. Smiles, laughs, tears expressed in words and pictures dominate the comments. Yes, there is mourning, but more so is a celebration of a life, cut short, that impacted so many … and will continue to. He will never be forgotten.<\/p>\n

It is simply impossible for Lynda to take this in at this moment, the immense reaction to honor Mike is a reflection on her as a mom and a friend. Mike was, and is, proud of her at this moment.<\/p>\n

I am honored to have known Mike for a short time; for our honest communications; for the opportunity to contribute and learn from him.<\/p>\n

Life and Death<\/h3>\n

Yes, Junko and Mike lived different lives halfway around\u00a0the globe from\u00a0one another. But they shared a passion and a love for nature. They gave\u00a0to others as much as they took from the experiences. One lived a full life and had the opportunity to give back based on her accomplishments. The other was just\u00a0starting the same path thru climbing, photography, music and inspiring others to get out there.<\/p>\n

Sadly some comments on climber’s deaths in the\u00a0press decry individuals who die while climbing. Citing irresponsibility, arrogance, selfishness and worse. They volunteer that they don’t understand the desire and sacrifice to “stand on top of a rock”.<\/p>\n

I understand they don’t\u00a0understand and have no desire to convince them otherwise. I do, however, suggest the next time they meet a true “climber” just look deeply in their eyes.\u00a0You might see courage to live their life at the limits, a desire to test themselves, a gentle kindness that they will share all they\u00a0know with anyone who asks. A humility balanced with an ego that allows them to go places rarely seen by others. A person willing to take a chance.<\/p>\n

Junko and\u00a0Mike lived these values in their own ways.<\/p>\n

Life is fragile, death is unexpected. Live each moment. Love those around you. Be kind and gentle with every act. Forgive easy and love deeply.<\/p>\n

My sincere condolences to the family, friends and teammates of Junko and Mike.<\/p>\n

Climb On
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This past week two climbers died. They\u00a0were about as different as they could be:\u00a0Junko Tabei\u00a0and Michael Powell.\u00a0Why do I write this post? […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":20870,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Two climbers died this week, so different yet so similar. Junko Tabei, first woman to summit Everest; Mike Powell descending from Mt Whitney","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-24624","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/IMG_1124.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24624","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=24624"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24624\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/20870"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=24624"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=24624"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=24624"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}