{"id":25201,"date":"2017-01-06T11:08:50","date_gmt":"2017-01-06T18:08:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=25201"},"modified":"2017-03-08T09:14:26","modified_gmt":"2017-03-08T16:14:26","slug":"everest-winter-attempt-update","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2017\/01\/06\/everest-winter-attempt-update\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest Winter Attempt Update"},"content":{"rendered":"

Alex Txikon<\/a>\u00a0is now at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side preparing to begin his acclimatization rotations on Everest.<\/p>\n

He is being supported by Seven Summits Treks<\/a> and five Sherpas who will fix the route thru the Khumbu Icefall. They had their Puja today, January 6, 2016.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Txikon is 35\u00a0years old and is\u00a0joined by 28 year old Spanish climber, Carlos Rubio. Also\u00a0on the team are Aitor Barez, the expedition movie director and Pablo Magister who will serve as cameramen.<\/p>\n

Txikon along with Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara\u00a0knocked off Nanga Parbat<\/a> last winter leaving on K2 as the last 8000er without a winter summit. An effort for a winter K2 summit by\u00a0Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki was canceled due\u00a0to lack of funds.<\/p>\n

The Challenge<\/h3>\n

The weather is the foremost problem facing the team. In January, the coldest month, the summit temperature averages -36\u00b0 C (-33\u00b0 F) and can drop as low as -60\u00b0 C (-76\u00b0 F). According to the Weather Underground<\/a>\u00a0on February 2004 the winds reached 280 km\/h or 174 mph.<\/p>\n

Txikon is climbing without supplemental oxygen significantly increasing the effort.<\/p>\n

\"Alex<\/a>
Alex Txikon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Timing<\/h3>\n

Technically winter begins on December 21st<\/sup>\u00a0or 22nd<\/sup> and ends on March 20th <\/sup>so Txikon must summit by late March to claim his winter ascent.<\/p>\n

The majority of Everest\u00a0winter summits have been in December and predominately by Japanese climbers\u00a0who have accounted for\u00a010 of the 15 winter summits.<\/p>\n

A paltry 0.2% of all summits since 1953 have occurred in the winter.\u00a0See this post<\/a> for more Everest winter statistics.<\/p>\n

winter Manaslu<\/h3>\n
\"Elisabeth<\/a>
Elisabeth Revol at Manaslu Base Camp 30 December 2016<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Meanwhile over on the 8000 meter mountain Manaslu, French alpinist\u00a0Elisabeth Revol<\/a>\u00a0is at base camp preparing for her alpine style attempt on the world’s 8th highest peak at\u00a08163 m, 26,781 feet.<\/p>\n

Fellow french climber Ludovic Giambiasi<\/a>\u00a0has plans to climb with her but only to Camp 2 at 6,400 meters.<\/p>\n

She posted at the end of December that she has no communications capability so we will have to wait for her return for an update.<\/p>\n

On base camp today. We are in winter : it’s cold and windy. But weather is ok for now. Have a nice end of year, and an happy new year 2017. I’ll have no connection on base camp !<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Best of luck to all,<\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Alex Txikon\u00a0is now at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side preparing to begin his acclimatization rotations on Everest. He is being […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":25203,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"The no O's winter Everest expedition is at base camp. French female alpinist Elisabeth Revo is now climbing Manaslu. No teams on K2.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,472],"tags":[480,432,448,475,51],"class_list":["post-25201","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2017-coverage","tag-alex-txikon","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2017-coverage","tag-manaslu-summit"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/15936748_10154843292752296_7743569317384332814_o.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25201","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=25201"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25201\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/25203"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=25201"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=25201"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=25201"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}