{"id":28203,"date":"2017-11-26T08:14:36","date_gmt":"2017-11-26T15:14:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=28203"},"modified":"2017-11-26T08:14:36","modified_gmt":"2017-11-26T15:14:36","slug":"himalayan-autumn-wrap-up","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2017\/11\/26\/himalayan-autumn-wrap-up\/","title":{"rendered":"Himalayan Autumn Wrap-up"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>It was a wild ride for those climbing in the Himalayan this Autumn with\u00a0valiant efforts on 8000ers, a few new routes and a tragedy on Ama Dablam. Never say never when claiming there are no more climbs but with winter approaching the attention will shift to K2 and perhaps an attempt on Everest and Nanga Parbat.<\/p>\n<p>Lots of attempts on the 8000ers in October but no summits.<\/p>\n<h3>Lhotse &#8211; Over<\/h3>\n<p>South Korean, <a href=\"https:\/\/hongsungtaek.modoo.at\/?link=7vhayrvb\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sung-Taek Hong<\/a> and Spanish climber <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/JorgeEgocheagaAlpinista\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jorge Egocheaga<\/a>\u00a0ended their attempt Lhotse&#8217;s South Face. High winds stopped them on their summit attempt. They had tried a few weeks earlier and rock fall and avalanches stopped them then. This is the same story as in previous years. Sung-Taek says he will return next year.<\/p>\n<h3>Annapurna &#8211; Over<\/h3>\n<p>Slovenian duo Luka Stra\u017ear and Nejc Mar\u010di\u010d have given up after suffering frostbite. They were climbing the normal route on the West Face of Annapurna in alpine style. You can read the full report at their <a href=\"http:\/\/www.camp.it\/blogPost.aspx?CAT=32&amp;ID=417&amp;T=CB\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">site<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h3>Manaslu &#8211; Over<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.kammerlander.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hans Kammerlander<\/a>\u00a0on Manaslu ended his effort due to massive amounts of snow. An updated\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.kammerlander.com\/berge\/manaslu-expedition-2017\/kammerlander-unmengen-schnee\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">posted<\/a> on their site.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>6000 and 7000 Meter Peaks<\/h3>\n<p>Some serious technical climbing is happening all through the world with a first and second ascents of 6000 meter peaks.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_28204\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-28204\" style=\"width: 569px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/7-569x424.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-28204\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/7-569x424.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"569\" height=\"424\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/7-569x424.jpg 569w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/7-569x424-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/7-569x424-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 569px) 100vw, 569px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-28204\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Route topo. \u201cOur rappel line through the lower ice cliff is actually slightly out of frame. However, we were deposited very near the bottom arrow point near the blackened ice, where debris from the ice above ran with regularity,\u201d Villanueva writes. Photo: Tino Villanueva.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/rockandice.com\/climbing-news\/two-americans-establish-new-climb-in-indian-himalayas\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rock and Ice<\/a> reports that\u00a0IFMGA guides Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau made what they believe to be the first ascent of <strong>Rungofarka<\/strong> (6,495m) in the Northern Indian Himalayas. The pair completed\u00a0the climb in five days from their base camp (3,900m), and had three bivies on route.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a>\u00a0posted they made a first ascent on <strong>Tharke Khang<\/strong> in Nepal. It is\u00a022,000\u2032 (6670m).<\/p>\n<p>On 19 October, climbers successfully summited the West Ridge of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.peakbagger.com\/peak.aspx?pid=37310\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong>Chulu West<\/strong> <\/a>at 6419 meters.\u00a0 The team included\u00a0J\u00fcrgen Sch\u00fctz, Andr\u00e9 G\u00fcnzel and Manuel M\u00f6ller, together with the Nepalese Dawa Gyalje Sherpa and Pasang Gomba Sherpa\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/blogs.dw.com\/adventuresports\/new-route-on-chulu-west-less-commerce-more-mountain\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">source<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Previously reported first ascents included:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Burke Khang<\/strong> was summited by Noel Hanna (read this good <a href=\"https:\/\/www.irishnews.com\/lifestyle\/2017\/11\/18\/news\/adventurer-noel-hanna-on-being-the-first-man-to-conquer-himalayan-peak-burke-khang-1188628\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">interview<\/a> with him) and\u00a0three Sherpas:\u00a0 Sirdar Naga Dorje Sherpa, Pemba Tshering Sherpa and Samden Bhote, all on 5<sup>th<\/sup> October, 2017 at 12:05pm.\u00a0Bill, at age 75, made it to Camp 1 and chose not go higher. Details on his <a href=\"http:\/\/eightsummits.com\/bill-burke-blog\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">blog<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ykoshelenko\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Yury Koshelenko<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/aleksei.lonchinskii\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Aleksei Lonchinskii<\/a>\u00a0did a first ascent\u00a0of <strong>Phungi Peak<\/strong> (6538) in Nepal &#8211; SE face direct. It is west of Manaslu in Nepal.<\/li>\n<li>Located near Kanchenjunga, <strong>Pandra<\/strong> at\u00a0<span class=\"notranslate\">6,700 meter<\/span>\u00a0<span class=\"notranslate\">Mathieu D\u00e9trie, Pierre Labbre and Benjamin V\u00e9drines climbed the northeast face <strong>Peine plancher<\/strong>, a technical route that combines stretches of corridors with sections of ice. source:\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/translate.google.com\/translate?js=n&amp;prev=_t&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;tl=en&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fdesnivel.com%2Fexpediciones\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">desnivel.com<\/a><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span class=\"notranslate\"><strong>Mt. Edgar at\u00a0<\/strong>6618 m was summited by a six member Italian team on two different routes. It is in the\u00a0Chinese province of Sichuan. Once again, <a href=\"http:\/\/translate.google.com\/translate?js=n&amp;prev=_t&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;tl=en&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fdesnivel.com%2Fexpediciones\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Desnivel<\/a> has all the details.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Death on Ama Dablam<\/h3>\n<p>Tragedy on the popular Nepal 6000er Ama Dablam. Russian <a href=\"https:\/\/www.redbull.com\/us-en\/athlete\/valery-rozov\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Valery Rozov<\/a> died when his wingsuit flight hit the rocks on Ama Dablam at 6814m. \u00a0Valery was 52 years old, a Red Bull athlete and had aspirations of flying off the 7 Summits. He was training for Mt. Everest. He had previously set an altitude record off Cho Oyu as seen in this video.\u00a0Rozov spent in free fall for 90 seconds and landed on the glacier at an altitude of 6000 meters above sea level.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/oQjp0DgqWpg?rel=0\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3>Winter K2, Everest and Nanga Parbat<\/h3>\n<p>These Himalaya giants may see winter attempts. The buzz around K2 in increasing with a recent interview with Denis Urubko\u00a0in <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinismonline.com\/mz-notas.asp?id=10808\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alpinsimonline.\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n<p>As previously reported,\u00a0Krzysztof Wielicki, 67, who was in the first team to scale Everest in winter in 1980 will lead a Polish K2 attempt this winter.\u00a0Funding had been a problem but it appears they have received $275,000 from the Polish\u00a0Ministry of Sport and Tourism.<\/p>\n<p>Jasmine Tours is the ground agent and there will be 12 members in the team with 6 high altitude climbers from Pakistan for the expedition support.\u00a0They will climb in traditional siege style establishing several camps along the route. Of course weather is the primary concern as K2 is always hit with high winds but in winter the jet stream tends to sit on top of it with 200 mph winds and experience heavy snowfall.<\/p>\n<p>The team is scheduled to include:\u00a0<strong>Janusz Gol\u0105b<\/strong>, 50, with a Gasherbum I ascent,\u00a0<strong>Artur Ma\u0142ek<\/strong>, who made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak, <strong>Marcin Kaczkan,\u00a0<\/strong>K2 in the winter of 2002\/03 to 7,600m and summited K2 and Nanga Parbat in the summer, plus <strong>Marek Chmielarski<\/strong>, summits of Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak.<\/p>\n<p>On Everest, rumors are swirling that\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alex.txikon.5\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong>Alex Txikon\u00a0<\/strong><\/a>will\u00a0return for another winter Everest attempt. It is mentioned\u00a0again in the\u00a0Urubko interview. Meanwhile a documentary of his 2016 attempt is being show in Bilbao, Spain. This is the trailer:<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/240574336\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Finally for the 7th year in a row,\u00a0<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/tomek.mackiewicz.1\">Tomasz Mackiewicz<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>is hoping to return to Nanga Parbat for another attempt on that peak. He posted on his site:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Under the plan, of course, it is to return to Nanga Parbat in winter the same way that in 2016 we managed to come so close to the peak, ran only a 300m height difference. We want to act in an alpine style, without rigging, without oxygen, on slightly. As you know, the only support that I can hope for is social support. Without him I would not be able to (at least for now) to realize the high mountains. I hope you understand that both my determination and request support.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3>Free Himalayan Database<\/h3>\n<p>Just a reminder that any day now in a major strategic change, the Bible of Himalayan climbs will now be <strong>free<\/strong> and available for download to anyone \u00a0from their <a href=\"http:\/\/www.himalayandatabase.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">website<\/a>. You can read more details on my <a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2017\/10\/16\/himalayan-database-now-free\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">post<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are everything<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It was a wild ride for those climbing in the Himalayan this Autumn with\u00a0valiant efforts on 8000ers, a few new routes and [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":24562,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"No late Autumn 8000er summits this year but many first ascents thought Nepal and India. Tragedy on Ama Dablam. Winter K2, Everest and Nanga up next.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7],"tags":[432],"class_list":["post-28203","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","tag-climbing-news"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/Nobukazu-Kuriki-on-Everest-North-Face.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28203","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=28203"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28203\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/24562"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=28203"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=28203"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=28203"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}