{"id":28672,"date":"2018-01-16T05:57:43","date_gmt":"2018-01-16T12:57:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=28672"},"modified":"2018-01-17T13:34:05","modified_gmt":"2018-01-17T20:34:05","slug":"k2-and-everest-winter-efforts-begin-climbing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2018\/01\/16\/k2-and-everest-winter-efforts-begin-climbing\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 and Everest Winter Efforts Begin Climbing"},"content":{"rendered":"

Now that both the K2 and Everest teams are nicely established at their respective base camps, they are beginning to make progress climbing the Hills. \u00a0See this post<\/a> for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth.<\/p>\n

Big Picture<\/h3>\n

Both teams are dealing with the same challenge: establish camps to support their summit push. Both will put in fixed lines to protect them from falls. Along the way, they will set up camps along the route. The highest camps will most likely be created on their summit push. Each camp will be stocked with tents, food, stoves, and fuel. Neither team is using supplemental oxygen thus significantly reducing the loads but also greatly increases the risk of frostbite.<\/p>\n

Establishing the low camps is critical but in the grand scheme not the biggest challenge. That will come when they break 7,000 meters or about Camp 3 for both the Everest and the K2 efforts. This is when high winds, heavy snow and avalanche conditions will come into play for their winter attempts. So the next couple of weeks should be calm by comparison to what we may see in mid\u00a0to late February.<\/p>\n

The short-term issues will include climber health, a good acclimatization program and sufficient good weather to establish the route.<\/p>\n

\"K2<\/a>
K2 \u010cesen Route aka Basque Route<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Winter K2<\/h3>\n

The Polish team<\/a>\u00a0has established their\u00a0BC and set up a solid camp complete with an Internet connection.<\/p>\n

16 Jan update: I’m being told by their home team that high winds have hit K2 and the team may be stuck at base camp for a week or more. More details tomorrow.<\/strong><\/p>\n

17 Jan UPDATE:\u00a0Janusz and Denis, according to info from the base camp, have reached about 5.900m, then return to the base. There will be no Camp I just Camp II at an altitude of 6,200.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Part of their team has already gone to the base of K2 to scout out Camp 1 on the \u010cesen Route aka Basque Route. They have very short days- starting at 8:30 with sunset at 15:30 – 7 hours total!\u00a0High winds continue to be reported and we can expect to read this throughout their effort. In fact, in my opinion, that will be the only reason they don’t summit this year, short of a disaster.<\/p>\n

This is a nice video of the team at base camp and the extreme lower part of the route:<\/p>\n