{"id":30806,"date":"2018-05-20T16:20:49","date_gmt":"2018-05-20T22:20:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=30806"},"modified":"2018-05-20T23:29:30","modified_gmt":"2018-05-21T05:29:30","slug":"everest-2018-summit-wave-8-underway-traverse-problems","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2018\/05\/20\/everest-2018-summit-wave-8-underway-traverse-problems\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2018: Summit Wave 8 &#8211; Update 2"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Update 2:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/benegasbrothers.com\/n\/it-s-time-again-our-lhotse-summit-push-will-be-underway-in-about-4-more-hours\/2849\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Moinz\/Benegas <\/a>summited Lhotse a day after getting Everest. This is the 4th 800er for Matt: Cho Oyu, Makalu, Everest and Lhotse.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Update 1:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Reports are now coming in of strong wind gusts. I asked\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/chris.tomer.5\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Chris Tomer<\/a> of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.tomerweathersolutions.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tomer Weather Solutions<\/a>\u00a0for his view on what was happening:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Doesn\u2019t look jet related to me so the gusts will pass.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Could be a 3 to 6 hour spike.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Then much lighter into Tuesday.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My best guess is some spin in the middle of the atmosphere. In more general terms, the best summit window of the season is winding down.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>If the summit door was wide open last week then it\u2019s starting to slowly close.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pg\/7summittreks\/posts\/?ref=page_internal\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> had one of their three VVIP members who paid $130K summit:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>This morning one of our VIP member Mr. Li Jianhong climbed Mt. Everest along with two more Chinese members Mr. Lyu Jun and Ms. Qu Jiaojiao between 5:30 to 5:50 AM.\u00a0Ms. Qu Jiaojiao also climbed Lhotse on 20 May together with Jian Chang (China).<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.mountainguides.com\/everest-south18.shtml\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">IMG<\/a> reports they had 10 members and 13 Sherpas support staff on the summit.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>It&#8217;s actually amazing that there are any climbers still left on Everest given there have been summits every day since last Saturday, 12 May, over 500 combined from both side now. But once again, several other teams are staged at the South Col and C3 on the North for early Monday 21 May summits. Many are climbing NOW!<\/p>\n<h3>Monday 21 May &#8211; Summit Wave 8, yes #8!<\/h3>\n<p>Look for more summits, a lot, early Monday morning with teams including:<\/p>\n<h3>Nepal<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.mountainguides.com\/everest-south18.shtml\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">IMG<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.asian-trekking.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Asian Trekking<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alpineascents.com\/climbs\/mount-everest\/cybercasts\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alpine Ascents Int.<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitclimb.com\/news\/recent\/everest-nepal-news\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Summit Climb<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/benegasbrothers.com\/n\/it-s-time-again-our-lhotse-summit-push-will-be-underway-in-about-4-more-hours\/2849\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Moinz\/Benegas going for Lhotse<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Tibet<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.furtenbachadventures.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Furtenbach Adventures<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Unique Efforts Still Underway<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/LianoDavid\/\">David Lia\u00f1o<\/a>\u00a0summited Everest and now is climbing Lhotse before heading to K2. He attempted Kang but was stopped by weather.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/kurikiyama\/\">Nobukazu Kuriki<\/a>\u00a0is at C2 now hoping to summit in a day or two. His exact route is still unclear to me. He posted Sunday:<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<blockquote>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Namaste, gentlemen. I&#8217;m in c2 now.\u00a0I&#8217;m going to take a day here today and I&#8217;m going to get up tomorrow.\u00a0I have a slight cough and the cough and fever in the first half of the (Expedition) are almost gone.\u00a0I think I have a chance now.\u00a0Perhaps the day after tomorrow I will see the appearance of l\u00ec ch\u00e9ng from-Camp.\u00a0Anyway, I&#8217;d like to concentrate and be careful and carefully.\u00a0Thank you all for your support.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/rupert.jones.warner\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rupert Jones Warner<\/a> is traveling to the Tibet side for his next attempt. He summited from Nepal on 17 May.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Traverse Issues<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/horia.colibasanu\/\">Horia Colibasanu<\/a>\u00a0and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/himalayadventures\/\">Peter H\u00e1mor<\/a> are at C2 on the Nepal side hoping to summit via the West Ridge then traverse to Lhotse. They are concerned about the incoming weather since they need several days. Not looking good for their effort as near the end of the season. Their last post was Friday, 18 May:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Horia and Peter are presently at the advanced base camp (ABC), after a climbing attempt. Due to a high risk of avalanches, they returned to 6,400 m. For this year&#8217;s project, the two of them need a 4-5 day window of good weather.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>They keep encountering poor snow conditions. Peter posted on Thursday:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Peter and Horia couldn&#8217;t continue through the couloir to the West Ridge because of the great amount of snow. They are back in the ABC.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3>Live Stream Delay?<\/h3>\n<p>Tenji and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/JonGriffithPhotography\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jon Griffiths<\/a>, have been working hard and even doing a dry run for climbing to the summit of Everest by the normal, Southeast Ridge route, then return to the South Col and on to Lhotse back to back without supplemental oxygen. The no Os part of this is why its special plus it was supposed to be live stream over Nat Geo channels. But the team has gone mysteriously silent.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/tenjing.sherpa.37\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tenji Sherpa<\/a> posted a few days ago: &#8220;<strong>Acclimitising is over now!!! waiting for good windows for final push&#8221; <\/strong>I have a message into them trying to\u00a0figure out whats going on.<\/p>\n<p>OK, on to the next wave. I&#8217;ll update as I get info.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Update 2: Moinz\/Benegas summited Lhotse a day after getting Everest. This is the 4th 800er for Matt: Cho Oyu, Makalu, Everest and [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":20541,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Summit Wave 8 underway now on #Everest2018. This is the 8th straight day and there may be another 50 summits early Monday morning 21 May. Also, trouble for the West Ridge team?","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[147,494],"tags":[448,503],"class_list":["post-30806","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-everest","category-everest-2018-coverage","tag-everest","tag-everest-2018-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/Lhotseroute.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30806","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=30806"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30806\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/20541"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=30806"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=30806"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=30806"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}