And these climbers have blogs that appear to be updated:<\/p>\n
- \n
- Carlos Garranzo<\/a> on Broad Peak and K2<\/li>\n
- Fredrik Str\u00e4ng<\/a>\u00a0– K2<\/li>\n
- Mirza Ali<\/a><\/span>\u00a0–\u00a0Pakistani filmmaker\/director<\/span><\/li>\n
- Nathalie Fortin<\/a>\u00a0– K2<\/li>\n
- Jake Meyer<\/a>\u00a0– for his 3rd attempt on K2<\/li>\n
- David Roeske<\/a> for BP and K2. In 2016 the American summited Cho Oyu and Everest within 11 days.<\/li>\n
- D\u00e1vid Klein<\/a> – top Hungarian climber on GI\/II<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
K2 – Climbing<\/h3>\n
Dawa Sherpa<\/a> with Seven Summits Treks has taken the lead in fixing the ropes on K2. He reports progress during this good weather break, “SST K2 international Expeditions team 6 members and 6 Sherpas second rotation safely arrived camp one”\u00a0Japanese climber\u00a0Akira Oyabe<\/a>\u00a0and three of his team “touched Camp 2.”\u00a0Jason Black<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Canadian Nathalie Fortin<\/a>\u00a0was planning on reaching C2 this weekend. No current updates.<\/p>\n
All the climbing on K2 this season appears to be on the Abruzzi Ridge. Historically, it has been used for 75% of the summits. There are several technically difficult features including Houses’ Chimney, and the Black Pyramid. The Bottleneck Couloir is one of the most dangerous sections serving as a blowing alley for rock and ice fall.\u00a0The Abruzzi usually has 4 camps on the mountain:<\/p>\n
- \n
- \n
![\"K2](\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/k2routes-300x199.jpg\")
<\/a>K2 Routes: Abruzzi and \u010cesen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n Base Camp: <\/strong>18,600ft\/5669m<\/li>\n
- Advanced Base Camp:<\/strong> 18,650ft\/5684m<\/li>\n
- Camp 1:<\/strong> 19,965’\/6085m<\/li>\n
- Camp 2:<\/strong> 22,110’\/6740m<\/li>\n
- Camp 3:<\/strong> 23,760’\/7240m<\/li>\n
- Camp 4:<\/strong> 25,080’\/7644m<\/li>\n
- Summit:<\/strong> 28,251’\/8611m<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Broad Peak – Climbing and a Weekend Summit Push?<\/h3>\n
Furtenbach Adventures<\/a>, running a BP and a K2 trip said they were going for the BP summit over this weekend of good weather. They are being focused in order to move over to K2 as soon as possible. Other teams may wait out this next week of bad conditions and target mid to late July for they BP summit push. This will also give them time to further acclimatize.<\/p>\n
Jake Meyer<\/a> is doing a great job updating his Blog. He is aiming to summit K2 but acclimatizing on Broad Peak, “All things being good, we\u2019ll head back up BP for our second rotation tomorrow morning, this time planning to stay 2-3 nights on the hill, and ideally sleep at Camp 2 (6200m), which will be good for our acclimatisation. My bag is packed, ready to go, and although the weather is still not great, hopefully the forecast of higher pressure tomorrow and for the weekend will prevail.”\u00a0David Roeske<\/a>,\u00a0Carlos Garranzo<\/a>, and\u00a0Fredrik Str\u00e4ng<\/a>\u00a0also expected to be at the high camps this weekend.<\/p>\n
“I\u2019ve never experienced such a season with so constant bad weather in the Karakoram.\u201d<\/h3>\n
I reported this yesterday but desires a special place on this weekend update. German guide\u00a0Amical alpin<\/a> decided it was too dangerous and have cancelled their climb asking for porters to get them out ASAP. Their Dominik M\u00fcller<\/a> posted:\u00a0The entire material from camp 1 could be recovered. Right now it’s snowing again and in the rise some avalanches went off! All save back in bc” Also\u00a0Luis Stitzinger<\/a> said “I\u2019ve never experienced such a season with so constant bad weather in the Karakoram.\u201d<\/p>\n
Gasherbrum – No Updates<\/h3>\n
Adam Bielecki<\/a>\u00a0continues his wait and see mode on G but may be up this weekend along with\u00a0Masha Gordon<\/a> and Helias Millerioux, Yannick Graziani trying to traverse G1\/G2 traverse.<\/p>\n
Nanga Parbart – Over for Most<\/h3>\n
Mike Horn,<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0Alex Gavan<\/span><\/span><\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Tunc Findik<\/strong><\/a>, <\/a>all\u00a0exceptionally\u00a0strong and\u00a0experienced\u00a0climbers, have ended this summer efforts on NB due to weather.\u00a0Maya Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0appears to still be there.<\/p>\n
![\"Alpamayo,](\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/12029701_10153385484908411_9161053128669767572_o-300x225.jpg\")
<\/a>Deaths on Alpamayo<\/h3>\nI’m deeply saddened to report the loss of a climbing friend this past week.\u00a0Paul Samuel, 55, from London, Slovenian female climber Eva Zontar Litija, 27, and their Peruvian guide Jaime Quintana Figueroa, 40 were hit by a snow avalanche on the Ferrari Route on Peru’s Alpamayo, 5,947meter\/19,511 feet .<\/p>\n
I summited Manaslu with Paul in 2013 and found him a total delight. He was quite experienced and was on a guided trip. For my 2012 summit of Alpamayo we climbed the French Direct Route. Sadly this is not the first time the Ferrari has dealt death. In 2003, eight climbers were killed by an avalanche in the same flute. My sincere condolences to the friends and families of all the fallen. source<\/a><\/p>\n
Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\nCorrection: The ill fated Alpamayo trip was not organized by the company I previously showed – per their owner. I removed the company name.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
As we approach the first weekend in July 2018, one word summarizes this season: weather. It is appearing that teams will need […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":27370,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"A 4 day break in the otherwise miserable weather has allowed climbers to make progress all over the Norther Pakistani Mountains including K2. Sadly a death in Perua, including a friend.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[422,500],"tags":[42,501],"class_list":["post-31142","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-k2","category-k2-2018-coverage","tag-k2","tag-k2-2018-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Pakistan-8000ers.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31142","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=31142"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31142\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/27370"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=31142"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=31142"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=31142"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
- Advanced Base Camp:<\/strong> 18,650ft\/5684m<\/li>\n
- Fredrik Str\u00e4ng<\/a>\u00a0– K2<\/li>\n