{"id":31204,"date":"2018-07-14T15:58:04","date_gmt":"2018-07-14T21:58:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=31204"},"modified":"2019-04-06T12:31:43","modified_gmt":"2019-04-06T18:31:43","slug":"k2-2018-summer-coverage-weekend-update-july-15","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2018\/07\/14\/k2-2018-summer-coverage-weekend-update-july-15\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Weekend Update July 15"},"content":{"rendered":"

The middle of the summer climbing season has arrived in Pakistan and this season continues to all about weather and deaths. But also about near deaths, drones and deep snow. This story continues to unfold in mysterious ways.<\/p>\n

Big Picture<\/h3>\n

Ten days ago, the 2018 season was looking a lot like 2015 and 2016 with difficult weather and snow conditions that prevented anyone from summiting K2 and only a few made the other peaks throughout Pakistan. However, as is usual with weather, just when you think you have it figured out it changes and the last week was excellent for most of the teams. The forecast of heavy snow on Thursday never materialized but the snow that had already fallen did stop progress, at least on Broad Peak. 150 miles away on Nanga Parbat, some of the worlds best climbers and adventurers abandoned their efforts but a few remained and summited.<\/p>\n

With talk of winds returning, most teams have completed their acclimatization rotations and are returning to base camp to rest up for the summit push. However a few strong climbers will push hard over the next few days hoping beat the winds and nab a summit.<\/p>\n

K2 – Climbing<\/h3>\n

Dawa Sherpa<\/a>, Seven Summits Treks says they are targeting a summit bid after 20 July, but hints as early as the 17th. This implies the ropes will be to C4 and then they will fix to the summit as they make their summit push. I except most of the other teams to follow closely behind.\u00a0Jason Black<\/a>\u00a0has an excellent update after six days at C1 and C2 on K2. In addition to his own experiences, he writes about something no person ever wants to or should see:<\/p>\n

It\u2019s the 7th July and 5am with a reasonable weather forecast giving the team a head start with a crisp underfoot up that 40% grade wall leading to camp 1. It\u2019s a serious approach and your pretty committed but you\u2019re also surrounded by the most beautiful range of mountains with Broad Peak to the fore. However, just after 4 hrs of climbing, sadly, K2 took its first life, living up to its title as the Savage Mountain. A comrade mountaineer and a guy I was eating butterscotch sweets with just two days prior, tumbled passed us, falling 1000 meters to his death\u2026.I was shook to my core, looking down seeing his lifeless body below\u2026RIP Serge.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

With the exception of Andrzej Bargiel<\/a>\u00a0on the \u010cesen, all the climbing on K2 this season appears to be on the Abruzzi Ridge. Bargiel\u00a0wants to ski from the summit of K2. Its unclear if he will ski the \u010cesen or the Abruzzi which historically has been used on 75% of the summits. The Abruzzi has several technically difficult features including House Chimney, and the Black Pyramid. The Bottleneck Couloir is one of the most dangerous sections serving as a bowling alley for rock and ice fall.\u00a0The Abruzzi usually has 4 camps on the mountain:<\/p>\n

\"K2<\/a>
K2 Routes: Abruzzi and \u010cesen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n