{"id":31226,"date":"2018-07-16T13:02:45","date_gmt":"2018-07-16T19:02:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=31226"},"modified":"2019-04-06T12:28:14","modified_gmt":"2019-04-06T18:28:14","slug":"k2-2018-summer-coverage-broad-peak-gasherbrum-summits-k2-push-begins","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2018\/07\/16\/k2-2018-summer-coverage-broad-peak-gasherbrum-summits-k2-push-begins\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Summits, K2 Push Begins"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Not to be denied, the second summit push on Broad Peak was successful for most as was a clean summit of Gasherbrum II. And there are still climbers hoping to get Nanga Parbat. A large group of climbers have left K2 Base Camp hoping to summit later this week.<\/p>\n<h3>Big Picture<\/h3>\n<p>With good weather continuing, the routes are set and teams are pushing quickly to summit before conditions change. Its is reported to be quite warm, which can worry some leaders but thus far, the conditions seem to be about as good as they get in the Karakoram.<\/p>\n<h3>Broad Peak &#8211; Summits!!<\/h3>\n<p><a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/furtenbachadventures\/\">Furtenbach Adventures<\/a>\u00a0reported they summited on their second attempt. They tried last week but were stopped by avalanche danger above Camp 3. Good on them for giving it another go and not just moving on to K2. They posted, &#8220;SUMMIT!!\u00a0Congratulations to all our members, sherpas and guide Roli to top out Broad Peak this morning after fixing the route.\u00a0 All back in C3 now. More information will follow. Safe descent!&#8221; The summit team reportedly included:<\/p>\n<p><strong>Leader<\/strong>:\u00a0Roli Striemitzer (Austria)<br \/>\n<strong>Members<\/strong>:<br \/>\nDavid Roeske (USA)<br \/>\nFredrik Strang (Sweden)<br \/>\nMark Mueller (Switzerland)<br \/>\nAfi Gigani (Georgia)<br \/>\n<strong>Support<\/strong><br \/>\nMingma Sherpa<br \/>\nRam Nurbu Sherpa<br \/>\nNima Sherpa<br \/>\nHassan<br \/>\nDilawar hussain adil<\/p>\n<p>No direct word on the summit status of\u00a0<a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\">Mingma G. Sherpa<\/a>, but if everyone else summited, I&#8217;m sure he did.<\/p>\n<h3>Gasherbrum &#8211; Summits!!!<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/adambieleckiteam\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Adam Bielecki<\/a>\u00a0and German Felix Berg summited GII. Jacek Czech and\u00a0Kazach Boris Dedeszko turned back. All were not using supplemental oxygen or any kind of external support staff during the climb.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>After nearly 18 hours of climbing together with Felix we came back to C3. We managed to traverse the summit &#8211; we reached it by fragile and surprising<span class=\"text_exposed_show\">ly difficult west face and went down the regular route. Unfortunately, Jacek turned back on 7500m and Borys used the regular route and turned back on 7800m. Best regards from C3. Tomorrow the base camp<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/KalifaPage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hungarian climbers<\/a>\u00a0D\u00e1vid Klein and Szil\u00e1rd Suhajda are on their summit bid today, hoping to reach the top tomorrow. \u00a0<span class=\"goog-text-highlight\"><a title=\"Laszlo Pinter\" href=\"http:\/\/www.mozgasvilag.hu\/pinter-laszlo-preriparduc\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"author noopener noreferrer\">Laszlo Pinter<\/a>\u00a0t<\/span>ells me that <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/gritandrock\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Masha Gordon\u00a0<\/a>and Helias Millerioux, Yannick Graziani have ended their effort along with the Ukraine team:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Bielecki was interviewed by a Polish magazine. He told that during their last rotation last weekend the French and the Ukrainians continued straight for a summit bid with no success. The French trio (2 French: Millerioux and Graziani +Masha Gordon) broke the trail to camp 2. Then Adam, Berg, Czech and Dedeshko took over and moved a bit further up to build their camp 2 a little higher up. Next day they established camp 3, followed by the French and the Ukrainians. The next morning Adam and company reconned the way up to 7200 metres and turned back to descend to BC (July 11th). That was the time when the French and the Ukrainians launched a summit bid. The French did not get much further than the high point of Adam &amp;CO. The Ukrainians were stopped at the end of the traverse under the summit pyramid. The snow was too deep and their acclimatization was not ready.. They all returned back to BC.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3>K2 &#8211; Summit on Thursday?<\/h3>\n<p>Noting a team of\u00a010 members and 13 Sherpas and 3 Pakistan High altitude guides\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/profile.php?id=100005045050899&amp;fref=mentions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Dawa Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0of Seven Summits Treks (SST) says they have begun their summit push looking to top out on Thursday, 19th July, 2018. He noted the Sherpas and HAPs fixing the ropes as\u00a0leader Mingma David Sherpa and Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Mingma Thindu Sherpa and 2 Pakistan High Altitude guide and from Madison Mingma Tenjing Sherpa and 2 High altitude guide. They plan to fix the Bottle Neck before going for the summit suggesting they feel they have a lot of good weather ahead so no need to rush. SST posted their member and support team as :<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"text_exposed_show\"><strong>Leader<\/strong>: Chhang Dawa sherpa Nepal <\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"text_exposed_show\">\n<p><strong>Members<\/strong><br \/>\nMs. Sophie Switzerland<br \/>\nMr. Yoshiharu Nakamura japan<br \/>\nMis. Viridiana Alvarez Chavez Mexico<br \/>\nMr. Noel Richmond Hanna Ireland<br \/>\nMr. Paul Hegge Belgium<br \/>\nMis. Naoko watanabe japan<br \/>\nMr. Marek Novotony Czech Republic<br \/>\nMr. Gheorghe Dijmarescu USA<br \/>\nMs. Gangaamaa Badamgarav Mongolia<\/p>\n<p><strong>Support<\/strong><br \/>\nMr. Krishna Thapa Magar Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Mingma Gyabu sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Chhiji Nirbu sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Pemba Thunduk sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Mingma Tenjen Sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Ngima Thenduk Sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Dawa Gyaljen Sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Ngima Dorchi Sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Lakpa Temba Sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Furba Temba Sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Dawa Sangay Sherpa Nepal<br \/>\nMr. Mingma Thindu Sherpa Nepal<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>Apparently Madison Mountaineering&#8217;s team is along for this summit bid but may lag a day to draft off SST&#8217;s work. Also the Japanese team is expected to join in. All the teams have done a nice job of working together this season to fix the route.<\/p>\n<p>Reader <span class=\"\"><a class=\" UFICommentActorName\" dir=\"ltr\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/dom.kasprzak\" data-hovercard=\"\/ajax\/hovercard\/hovercard.php?id=100001806708359&amp;extragetparams=%7B%22is_public%22%3Afalse%2C%22hc_location%22%3A%22ufi%22%7D\">Dominik Kasprzak<\/a><\/span>\u00a0tells me that <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Jedrek.Bargiel\/\">Andrzej Bargiel<\/a>\u00a0will ski\u00a0Abruzzi -&gt; Cesen -&gt; Messner variant -&gt; Kukuczka\/Piotrowski routes. Andrzej&#8217;s bother, <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Bartek-Bargiel-241495476275426\/\">Bartek Bargiel<\/a>, posted a drone video from the acclimatization rotations and plans on capturing his entire ski from the summit of K2:<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/266701381\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3>Nanga Parbat &#8211; Still Climbing<\/h3>\n<p>The <a href=\"Nanga%20Parbat Czech Expedition 2018\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Czech<\/a> team had a bit of a setback with rockfall hurting one of their climbers:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>After two days of acclimatisation Ko\u0159en descended to C2 camp to gain power. In the meantime, the whole expedition was climbing uphill. Unfortunately, Jirka Jan\u00e1k was hit by a piece of stone in his arm and so he decided to get back to the base camp to recover. In the meantime, Drobek and Jura Domansk\u00fd managed to reach C3 camp and the rest of the team even somewhere higher between C3 and C4 camp, where they will spend tonight. The weather forecast says that tomorrow night there will be a snow storm, so I suppose they should all get to C4 by then and wait there until the weather gets better.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/PangaeaMikeHorn\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mike Horn,<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0<a id=\"js_ts\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alexgavan\/?hc_ref=ARTP_0yKOQsoLdShiFvRz2rQ9k3z-MgGWsmNV9zrRQGitf7LfaRmiRyBj-W4LaIp9BQ&amp;fref=nf\" data-hovercard=\"\/ajax\/hovercard\/page.php?id=190916414260912&amp;extragetparams=%7B%22hc_ref%22%3A%22ARTP_0yKOQsoLdShiFvRz2rQ9k3z-MgGWsmNV9zrRQGitf7LfaRmiRyBj-W4LaIp9BQ%22%2C%22fref%22%3A%22nf%22%7D\" data-hovercard-prefer-more-content-show=\"1\" data-hovercard-referer=\"ARTP_0yKOQsoLdShiFvRz2rQ9k3z-MgGWsmNV9zrRQGitf7LfaRmiRyBj-W4LaIp9BQ\" aria-describedby=\"js_tu\" aria-owns=\"\"><span class=\"fwn fcg\"><span class=\"fwb fcg\" data-ft=\"{\">Alex Gavan,<\/span><\/span><\/a>\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.tuncfindik.com\/pakistan-nanga-parbat-8125m-tirmanisi-basliyor-2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tunc Findik<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/maya.sherpa.54\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Maya Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0all exceptional strong climber choose not to risk the dangerous conditions on NB this year. However, two climbers, both supported to some extent by <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Karakorumexpeditions\/\">Karakorum Expeditions<\/a>\u00a0said they summited: \u00a0Niels Jespers from Belgium and Korean\u00a0<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/migon.kim.3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kim Migon.<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<h3>Gasherbrum IV &#8211; Team leaves<\/h3>\n<p>To no-one&#8217;s surprise, the Italian Army has left GIV after the death of their teammate, Maurizio Giordano, last week. Also it appears that Adam Bielecki will not attempt GIV either due to conditions. That leaves\u00a0<span class=\"notranslate\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/HerveBarmasseOfficial\/posts\/?ref=page_internal\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Herv\u00e9 Barmasse<\/a> and David Gottler who posted &#8220;<span id=\"gmail-result_box\" class=\"gmail-\" lang=\"en\"><span class=\"gmail-\">Tomorrow we will move from base camp upwards to complete our acclimatization.<\/span> <span class=\"gmail-\">The idea is to sleep two nights between 6000 and 7100 meters.<\/span> Then we will rest and if the weather permits, we will try to climb the Gasherbrum IV.<\/span>&#8221; Also,\u00a0Oriol Bar\u00f3\u00a0with Marc Toralles, Roger Cararach and Iker Madoz attempting the South Pillar on GIV.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Finally, no word on the rescue\/recovery for eight-time Everest Summiter Pemba Sherpa who reportedly fell into a crevasse on Northern India&#8217;s Saser Khangri peak.<\/p>\n<p>Best of luck to all<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Not to be denied, the second summit push on Broad Peak was successful for most as was a clean summit of Gasherbrum [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":31228,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"It's busy in the Karakoram with summits on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The summit push has started for K2 with big numbers.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[422,500,545],"tags":[42,501],"class_list":["post-31226","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-k2","category-k2-2018-coverage","category-weekend-update","tag-k2","tag-k2-2018-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Broad-peak.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31226","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=31226"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31226\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31228"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=31226"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=31226"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=31226"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}