{"id":33936,"date":"2019-05-14T19:54:29","date_gmt":"2019-05-15T01:54:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=33936"},"modified":"2019-05-26T14:06:21","modified_gmt":"2019-05-26T20:06:21","slug":"everest-2019-summit-wave-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2019\/05\/14\/everest-2019-summit-wave-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2019: Summit Wave 1 &#8211; Update"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>After what some are calling a historic day with summits on four of the 8000-meter peaks mainly by the rope teams, the mountains remain busy on Wednesday morning in Nepal as this 2 day window comes to a close. The ropes on the Tibet side reached 8300 meters but the fixers are retreating in advance of forecasted high winds.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;ll update the summits using the terminology &#8220;Summit Wave.&#8221; Yesterday was Summit Wave 0 with the outstanding work of the Sherpas to get the ropes to the summit. I&#8217;ll primarily focus on Everest but when information is available for the other 8000ers, I&#8217;ll add it.<\/p>\n<h3>Big Picture &#8211; Good News, Bad News<\/h3>\n<p>OK, the ropes are in on the Nepal side. That&#8217;s the good news. The jet stream is forecasted to move back on top of the summit for 5 to 7 days. That&#8217;s the bad news. And the ropes are not on the Tibet side summit. More bad news.<\/p>\n<p>So it was and is exciting to see how many people will summit this Wednesday morning in Nepal as they will get to go home now! (once they get back to Kathmandu!)<\/p>\n<p>Nepal updated their permit list to show 379 member permits were issued. Double that with the Sherpas in support and subtract a handful that are trying right now, around 30, and that leaves 728 humans all planning their summit push between May 20\/21 and 29\/30. Or 9 days.<\/p>\n<p>IF the jet behaves itself and stays away, 9 days is tight but doable to accommodate that many climbers. If it returns early or leaves late, this year might be tough. There are a lot of conversation going on within the guide community right now.<\/p>\n<h3>Nepal &#8211; Summit Pushes underway<\/h3>\n<p><strong>More for May 15 Happening NOW!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Teams that should be on their bid or even summited with this post at 7:30 am Wednesday, May 15, 2019.:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Climbing The Seven Summits&#8217;s private team<\/li>\n<li>Ascent Himalaya<\/li>\n<li>\n<h3><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/MyrmidonExpeditions\/\">Myrmidon Expeditions<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/kirstieennisfoundation.com\/everest-may-9-10-2019\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kristie<\/a> Ennis &#8211; you can follow her progress on her <a href=\"https:\/\/share.findmespot.com\/shared\/faces\/viewspots.jsp?glId=0FJuqZEnP1gYhAO0SE6PY8W5nIOrujDVk&amp;fbclid=IwAR1Wf0Xh4tr6L0RRfFmxSdjEypWwLyRIoOyKiiNB-W0aD9ZyqMSZIryHZPk\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tracker<\/a><\/h3>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>May 15 Summits<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s Indian Team: Seven Summits Treks says the team leader, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/profile.php?id=100010419425441\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kami Rita Sherpa<\/a> summited. at 7:50 am but no word on the rest of the team. This was Kami Rita&#8217;s 23 summit.<\/p>\n<p><strong>To wrap up yesterday, May 14:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a>&#8216;s Garrett Madison and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nepal.hg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Himalayan Guides<\/a> who are hosting\/managing the rope team said 8 Sherpas got the ropes to the summit at 1:15 on the 14th. No members were reported to have summited.<\/p>\n<p>Imagine Nepal&#8217;s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/mingma.g.sherpa\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Sherpa<\/a> put 12 people on the summit of Lhotse on Tuesday, May 14th including the first Greeks and Pakistani.<\/p>\n<h3>Tibet &#8211; Planning<\/h3>\n<p>With the ropes still not to the summit, the Tibet side teams were forced to skip this narrow window and plan for the one after May 20. The ropes are at Camp 3, around 8300-meters\/27,230-feet. So lots of planning activity on this side as the same window should emerge for them. Look for teams to leave Chinese Base Camp this weekend or sooner.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The New Line<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BxdOgufAt-N\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alpenglow<\/a> posted this update on the new route:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p><a class=\"notranslate\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/estebantopomena\/\">@estebantopomena<\/a> and <a class=\"notranslate\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/coryrichards\/\">@coryrichards<\/a> have headed all the way down the mountain and into the town of Shegar to get a solid rest before their big push<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3>Others 8000ers<\/h3>\n<p><strong>Makalu Summits!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The 5 Sherpa rope team from\u00a0Seven Summits Treks on Makalu got to the summit at 8:45 on the 14th. Other climbers turned back due to extreme cold. It was reported to be -18F\/27C!! There are more climbers trying this morning, <strong>Wednesday, May 15<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Update:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Summit by\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sarah.strattan\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Sarah Strattan<\/a> and Brad Johnson in what Brad described as &#8220;perfect conditions.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Kanchenjunga Summits May 15!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>And 6 Sherpas stood on the top of Mt Kangchenjunga at 15:10 on the 14th from Seven Summits Treks. And the success continued on the <strong>15th<\/strong> with 5 members with 5 Seven Sumits Treks Sherpas (<del>no names provided for the Sherpas!<\/del>)<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">1. VIRIDIANA ALVAREZ CHAVEZ &#8211; MEXICO<br \/>\n2. KLARA KOLOUCHOVA &#8211; CZECH REPUBLIC<br \/>\n3. SOHPIE MARIE LAVAUD &#8211; SWITZERLAND<br \/>\n4. STEFAN IVANOV STEFANOV- BULGARIA<br \/>\n5. TOMAZ ROTAR &#8211; REPUBLIC OF SLOVENIA<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">Sherpas:<br \/>\n1. CHHEPAL SHERPA &#8211; OKHALDHUNGA <span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After what some are calling a historic day with summits on four of the 8000-meter peaks mainly by the rope teams, the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":33938,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"With 31 summits yesterday, 14 May across the Himalaya, climbers are rushing NOW, Wednesday 15 May to summit before this short weather window ends. Follow one as she is almost there","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[147,526],"tags":[448,521],"class_list":["post-33936","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-everest","category-everest-2019-coverage","tag-everest","tag-everest-2019-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/image-11.png","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33936","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=33936"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33936\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/33938"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=33936"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=33936"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=33936"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}