{"id":34620,"date":"2019-06-24T16:58:48","date_gmt":"2019-06-24T22:58:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=34620"},"modified":"2019-06-24T17:34:02","modified_gmt":"2019-06-24T23:34:02","slug":"k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-snow-stalling-k2-progress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2019\/06\/24\/k2-2019-summer-season-coverage-snow-stalling-k2-progress\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 2019 Summer Season Coverage &#8211; Snow Stalling K2 Progress"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Only a few teams have arrived at K2 Base Camp thus far while many others are making their way closer by trekking on the Baltoro Glacier. Activity is also picking up on the other 8000ers in Pakistan. Finally, more deaths are being reported on the mountains this summer.<\/p>\n<h2>Snow at K2 BC<\/h2>\n<p>Swiss climber, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/k2-diary\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mike Horn<\/a>, is doing a nice job of keeping everyone updated on his teams progress through his expensive social media. He arrived at BC last week and wanted to get to Camp 2 but snow conditions have delayed their efforts:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>New week, new goals! Weather not at its best today, we\u2019ll have to wait for it to clear before we make our way to camp 2 (6500m) &#8211; acclimatization going well so far, @fredroux72 and I feeling in top shape!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>I don&#8217;t have a lot of details but there are reports of a Japanese climber who arrived earlier on K2 and had all of his great lost to an avalanche. He had to abandon his climb and has left the mountain. My source passed on a quote from a Gilgit-Baltistan area local that he has not seen this much snow in 29 years.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/k2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a> reports in half way to K2 BC with better weather but a bit of rain.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s still very early in the climbing cycle. We can anticipate K2 summits in late July, over a month to go. That said, with over 160 people on K2 alone, there will need to be effective communication and coordination amongst the teams on where to pitch tents, especially at C1, C2 and C3. With this many people, there is a chance that someone might unwittingly position a tent in an avalanche prone area.<\/p>\n<p>In 2013 an avalanche swept a tent off the mountain at Camp 3. Killed were\u00a0highly experienced guide Marty Schmidt, 53, and his son, Denali, 25. \u00a0Heavy snow hit K2 that season and all other teams had retreated to base camp to let the snow settle.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_27410\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-27410\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-27410\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/G4H4vDwkcyzw9AaEZ-jnkcNRdaAOaHl_oXYWTEICOxE-640x480.jpg\" alt=\"Approaching Camp 3 on K2 in 2014 by Alan Arnette\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/G4H4vDwkcyzw9AaEZ-jnkcNRdaAOaHl_oXYWTEICOxE-640x480.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/G4H4vDwkcyzw9AaEZ-jnkcNRdaAOaHl_oXYWTEICOxE-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/G4H4vDwkcyzw9AaEZ-jnkcNRdaAOaHl_oXYWTEICOxE-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/G4H4vDwkcyzw9AaEZ-jnkcNRdaAOaHl_oXYWTEICOxE.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-27410\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Approaching Camp 3 on K2 in 2014 by Alan Arnette<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>Other 8000ers<\/h2>\n<h3>Broad Peak<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.kobler-partner.ch\/social-wall\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kari Kobler<\/a> is leading a team to BP including Lynda Bradey and Billi Bierling. Also <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/furtenbachadventures\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Furtenbach Adventures<\/a>is on BP.<\/p>\n<h3>Nanga Parbat<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mountainplanet.com\/freeride-in-death-zone_-two-alpinist-will-ski-from-annapurna\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mountain Planet<\/a> is reporting that Russian alpinists <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/vitaly.lazo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Vitaly Lazo<\/a> and Anton Pugovkin announce the start of \u201cDeath Zone Freeride\u201d project. The goal is: to ascent 5 highest mountains of the world with no supplement oxygen, and to descent skiing. They are Manaslu, Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, Everest, K2. They got Manaslu in 2017 and Annapurna last year. You can follow on their <a href=\"http:\/\/deathzonefreeride.com\/ru\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">site<\/a>. They have already established C1 and 2\u00a0on the Kinshoffer Wall. This is their video from Manaslu.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/lUdBPbHTF-A\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3>Gasherbrum II<\/h3>\n<p>Denis Urubko and Mar\u00eda Cardell are on their way hoping for a new route on GII.<\/p>\n<h2>New Speed Record on Denali<\/h2>\n<p>On Thursday 20 June 2019 38-year-old Ecuadorian mountain guide Karl Egloff broke Kilian Jornet&#8217;s speed record when he climbed the <em>West Buttress<\/em> route on Denali in 7 hours and 40 minutes, smashing Jornet&#8217;s time of 9:45. Jornet\u00a0skied down but Egloff simply walked and ran! Overall, \u00a0he completed a round trip climb of the West Buttress route in a total of 11 hours, 44 minutes. \u00a0The previous record for a round trip speed climb was set in 2014 at 11 hours, 48 minutes by Killian Jornet.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nps.gov\/dena\/blogs\/field-report-june-24-2019.htm\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-34626\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_6273.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"461\" height=\"614\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_6273.jpg 461w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_6273-169x225.jpg 169w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_6273-360x480.jpg 360w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_6273-230x306.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/IMG_6273-350x466.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 461px) 100vw, 461px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h2>More Climbing Deaths<\/h2>\n<p>2019 started off with the deaths of Tom Ballard Daniel Nardi in February on the 8,000-meter peak <strong>Nanga Pabart<\/strong>. Then in April, elite climbers, American Jess Roskelley and Austrians David Lama and Hansj\u00f6rg Auer were killed in an avalanche on <strong>Canada\u2019s Howse Peak<\/strong> attempting a very difficult new route.<\/p>\n<p>Then in April and May we saw 10 deaths on the 8000ers, <strong>Annapurna<\/strong>, <strong>Lhotse<\/strong> <strong>Makalu<\/strong>, and <strong>Kanchenjunga<\/strong> then another 11 just on <strong>Everest<\/strong>. Quick on the heels of these deaths came an avalanche on the24,390-foot\/7,434-meter\u00a0<strong>Nanda Devi East<\/strong>\u00a0in Northern India that took the lives of eight climbers. An eight person team was lead by veteran British mountaineer Martin Moran and included four Britons, two Americans, an Australian and an Indian. Seven of the bodies have been recovered.<\/p>\n<p>Now in Pakistan on\u00a0<strong>Melvin Jones Peak<\/strong> at 5,800-meter\/19028-foot, seven climbers with an Italian team were hit by an avalanche killing at least one Pakistani. Finally in this string of tragedy, the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alpineclubpakistan\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alpine Club of Pakistan<\/a> is reporting that\u00a0two Chinese climbers, Li Haoxin Chen and Ka Kit Ng, are missing on a technical 6,400m peak in the Liligo Glacier\/Trango Towers area.<\/p>\n<h2>Everest<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Weather Online<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Not to be left out, there is still more Everest news. A National Geographic\/Rolex sponsored project has put several weather stations on and around Everest at the Balcony (8382m), South Col (8000m), C2 (6487m), EBC (5298m) and Phortse (3780m) are now available <a href=\"https:\/\/nationalgeographic.org\/earth-pulse\/everest\/widget\/16\/?fbclid=IwAR1gvkvZvMq_q4md5sDV3TDy7UWklqfwvBJkuQItvDb1uCeJNDQ7t-pG3FI\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">online<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nationalgeographic.com\/adventure\/2019\/06\/mount-everest-highest-weather-station\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-34624\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/880x495_cmsv2_1380ff41-9c66-56dc-95b3-6105d12c23d0-3973998-640x360.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/880x495_cmsv2_1380ff41-9c66-56dc-95b3-6105d12c23d0-3973998-640x360.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/880x495_cmsv2_1380ff41-9c66-56dc-95b3-6105d12c23d0-3973998-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/880x495_cmsv2_1380ff41-9c66-56dc-95b3-6105d12c23d0-3973998-230x129.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/880x495_cmsv2_1380ff41-9c66-56dc-95b3-6105d12c23d0-3973998-350x197.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/880x495_cmsv2_1380ff41-9c66-56dc-95b3-6105d12c23d0-3973998-480x270.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/880x495_cmsv2_1380ff41-9c66-56dc-95b3-6105d12c23d0-3973998.jpg 880w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Summits Top 10,000<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>With the final numbers from the Nepal and Chinese governments, it appears that there were between 885 and 900 summits in 2019 smashing the previous one season record of 715 summits in 2018 thus bringing the total summits around 10,050 by over 5,800 individuals. With the 11 deaths, that total is now 304. There were only 2 summits that didn&#8217;t use supplemental oxygen. The best final statistics will come from the Himalayan database later this year.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Only a few teams have arrived at K2 Base Camp thus far while many others are making their way closer by trekking [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":31002,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Heavy snow on K2 and across the Karakorum is stalling progress. More climbing deaths and Everest breaks the 10,000 summit mark with a record year.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,527],"tags":[432,528],"class_list":["post-34620","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2019-coverage","tag-climbing-news","tag-k2-2019-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/K2-2014-1.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/34620","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=34620"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/34620\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31002"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=34620"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=34620"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=34620"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}