First off, a small bit of news on permit prices on the Tibet side. It is being reported that the Tibet Mountaineering Association has recommended a $5,000 increase for the permit fee. source<\/a>. It is currently $11,500. Nepal is at $11,000 but has proposed a minimum expedition costs of $35,000 per person, including the permit fee. Seems like both countries will use price to address some of the crowding problems.<\/p>\n Madison Mountaineering Autumn Everest<\/strong><\/p>\n Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering<\/a>\u00a0continues to lead his team on the trek towards Everest Base Camp. They will be the only commercial team on Everest this autumn and will fix the route from base camp to the summit. They are above\u00a0Pheriche.<\/p>\n The\u00a0Mystery\u00a0Everest Run\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n Mystery is revolving around Spanish ultra runner Kilian Jornet<\/a>‘s Everest plans. I am told he plans to do a speed climb on Everest including perhaps a new route starting at Camp 2 but others are suggesting he wants to do the long sought after Everest-Lhotse link. This is what the late\u00a0Ueli Steck was planning when he died from a fall on Nuptse in 2017 while acclimatizing for Everest\/Lhotse.<\/p>\n Adding to the mystery is that Jornet says he has permits for Lhotse and Everest. His cagey publicist, Laura Font Sent\u00eds<\/strong> of the Barcelona-based Lymbus agency, is quoted<\/a> \u201cKilian will spend some time in the Himalayas with his family and he will take advantage to explore the terrain. If he does any relevant activity he will communicate after he has completed it.\u201d Jornet plans to participate in the Annapurna 100 in Nepal, which starts on October 25.<\/p>\n Skiing down Everest<\/strong><\/p>\n Polish climber\u00a0Andrzej Bargie<\/a>l who will attempt to ski from the summit of Everest without using supplemental oxygen, and without removing his skis at any point during the descent has arrived at Everest Base Camp and is using his drone to help the Icefall Doctors inspect the Western Cwm for Camps 1 and 2 as they prepare the route.<\/p>\n Nirmal Purja<\/a>\u00a0is already at Manaslu base camp and I wouldn’t be surprised to see him be the first to summit this season. From there he is on to Cho Oyu. Still unclear which route he will take but he may just use the standard route on the Tibet side instead of the more risky Nepal side. Then there is still the big question of whether China will make an exception and issue his team a permit for Shishapangma. There are talks between the Chinese and Nepali governments underway. Reports say if he cannot get the Shis permit, he will climb Cho from the Nepal side. The reason for closing Shisha is due to the recent deaths and accidents causing officials to believe the mountain has become too dangerous to climb.<\/p>\n Nirmal Purja has a total of 11 summits of 8000ers in 94 days: Annapurna (April 23), Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, K2 and Broad Peak (July 26).<\/p>\n The 11 member Polish team who will attempt Lhotse via the standard route are already on the trek through the Khumbu. They spent some time acclimatizing on Lobuche.<\/p>\n Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n<\/a>\u00a0and team who will be attempting Dhaulagiri for his 10th time are currently trekking in the Khumbu for acclimatization.<\/p>\n Sergi Mingote<\/a>\u00a0is wrapping up his preparations before leaving home for his attempt on Dhaulagiri. He hopes to summit all fourteen of the 8000ers in 1,000 days without supplemental oxygen. The Catalan alpinist has already summited six so the clock started with Broad Peak on July 16, 2018. The remaining schedule includes: Annapurna and Kangchenjunga (spring 2020), Gasherbrum I (summer 2020), Shishapangma and Cho Oyu (autumn 2020) and finally Makalu and Everest (spring 2021).<\/p>\n There are over 400 people on Manaslu this autumn including 237 foreigners. 2019 seems to be a normal year for Manaslu with multiple reports of heavy afternoon rains. Mingma Sherpa<\/a> gives a nice summary:<\/p>\n We are now at Manaslu Base Camp. Yesterday went to camp1 and back. It has been raining continuously for more than 50 hours now. Sherpa Calendar shows Monsoon ends on 17th September so we can expect heavy snowfall in beginning of Autumn. We will try to finish our acclimatization by 20th September.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Seven Summits Club<\/a> has a large team on Manaslu this year. They have competed a rotation to Camp 1 at 5700 meters.<\/p>\n Adventure Consultants<\/a> is also on Manaslu this year. They are at Camp 1 today.\u00a0Climbing The Seven Summits<\/a> (CTSS) has a team lead by partner Tendi Sherpa and Kobler & Partner<\/a> is on Manaslu.\u00a0Some of the people on Manaslu this season include\u00a0Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Noel Hanna <\/a>and\u00a0<\/span>Lynne Hanna<\/a>.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n IMG<\/a> posted they are making excellent progress with their Sherpas making excellent progress on fixing the ropes to Camp 2.<\/p>\n Still no word if China will be issuing any permits for Shish this autumn.<\/p>\nProject Possible – On Manaslu Now<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Lhotse –\u00a0Acclimatizing<\/h1>\n
Dhaulagiri – Acclimatizing in the Khumbu<\/h1>\n
Manaslu- Rain and Snow<\/h1>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/image-534x480.png\")
<\/a>Tibet<\/h1>\n
Cho Oyu – Rope Fixing Progress<\/h2>\n
Shisha Pangma – No Permits?<\/strong><\/h2>\n
Winter K2 Gets Another Big Name<\/h1>\n