{"id":35113,"date":"2019-09-25T10:56:03","date_gmt":"2019-09-25T16:56:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=35113"},"modified":"2019-09-25T10:56:03","modified_gmt":"2019-09-25T16:56:03","slug":"autumn-2019-himalayan-season-summit-week","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2019\/09\/25\/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-summit-week\/","title":{"rendered":"Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Summit Week!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>With the route open on both Cho Oyu and Manaslu, the summitters are starting to pile up! Probably over 100 summits on Wednesday, September 25 across the Himalaya. China still not responding to Nim&#8217;s request to climb Shishapangma.<\/p>\n<h1>Everest &#8211; Climbing on hold<\/h1>\n<p>Garrett Madison of <a href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a> team are still at base camp waiting and wondering if\/when the serac will fall onto the Icefall.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Today is September 24th, and we had a very relaxing restful day in base camp.\u00a0 It snowed off and on most of the day and was fairly cloudy but had a few sun breaks. Myself, Kristin, and Zac just took the opportunity to reorganize our personal gear, our tents, and get a little bit of nap time in this afternoon.\u00a0 We had three great meals today and a nice day with the Nepal staff here and the Sherpas.\u00a0 We are hoping that tomorrow\u2019s a little more sunny and maybe this\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Serac\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">serac<\/a>\u00a0will come down tonight, and we\u2019ll have a clear and safe route to climb up afterwards.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Jedrek.Bargiel\/\">Andrzej Bargiel<\/a> who wants to ski non-stop, without Os from the summit to EBC is remaining on Everest with his complete crew of videographers who posted another excellent short video on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Jedrek.Bargiel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook<\/a>:<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" style=\"border: none; overflow: hidden;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/plugins\/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FJedrek.Bargiel%2Fvideos%2F506737890117729%2F&amp;show_text=0&amp;width=560\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h3><strong>Project Possible 12 of 14 Completed<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Looking to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months, <a class=\"fullname ProfileNameTruncated-link u-textInheritColor js-nav\" href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/Nimraldai\" data-aria-label-part=\"\">Nirmal Purja<\/a>, now has 12 in a mere 154 days: Annapurna (April 23), Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, K2, Broad Peak (July 26) and Cho Oyu (Sept 23).\u00a0He is back on Manaslu targeting the 27th. He needs to complete Shish by November 23, to meet his goal of seven months.<\/p>\n<p>China has said all foreigners must be out of Tibet no later than October 1 fearing protests around anniversaries, holidays, remembrances, etc. thus leaving open the big question of whether they will give Nirmal Purja a climbing permit for Shishapangma. Additionally, China had said no climbing on Shishapangma a few months ago after a string of deaths and accidents on the lowest of the fourteen 8000ers. They felt the mountain had become too dangerous to climb.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Help<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Nim&#8217;s had asked the Nepal government to intercede and ask the Chinese to make an exception for him and his team so they could complete their project. He is asking the public for help:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Shishapangma has been closed this season by the Chinese government. I am hoping that they will allow me to climb in good faith of human endeavour. At this moment, I have no idea what I should I do. If anyone can help me in this matter, I would be thankful.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>He posted this video on his Twitter feed on September 14 before he summited Cho Oyu. Some nice climbing shots. It&#8217;s assumed he will be doing a full documentary once he completes the project.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 480px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-35113-1\" width=\"480\" height=\"480\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/mp4\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Nirmal%20Purja-Update.mp4?_=1\" \/><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Nirmal%20Purja-Update.mp4\">http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Nirmal%20Purja-Update.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<h1>Dhaulagiri &#8211; Ready for the Summit Push<\/h1>\n<p class=\"_2nlv\"><span id=\"fb-timeline-cover-name\" class=\"_2t_q\" data-testid=\"profile_name_in_profile_page\"><a class=\"_2nlw _2nlv\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sergi.mingote.5\">Sergi Mingote<\/a> <\/span>is back at base camp after his final acclimatization rotation to Camp 2 at 6,505-meters. No updates on <span id=\"fb-timeline-cover-name\" class=\"_2t_q\" data-testid=\"profile_name_in_profile_page\"><a class=\"_2nlw _2nlv\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/carlos.soriafontan\">Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n<\/a> but he is still on the mountain.\u00a0<\/span><a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ChrisJensenBurke\/\">Chris Jensen Burke<\/a> who is climbing with <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/exbasenepal\/\">Expedition Base<\/a> said they are ready for the summit push when weather allows.<\/p>\n<h1><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">Manaslu &#8211; 41++ Summits in the Clouds<\/span><\/h1>\n<p>With five summits thus far including the rope fixing team and <a class=\"profileLink\" title=\"Muhammad Ali Sadpara\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara?__tn__=,dK-R-R-R&amp;eid=ARA4aXKnmZwkInIteB2eRF0NpAhDf2ZKOV3kmoWou1aQ3nPGEUBZ0Rlm2q4-Yul9-JjqMER-oxwMB06N&amp;fref=mentions\" data-hovercard=\"\/ajax\/hovercard\/user.php?id=100007565767661&amp;extragetparams={\" data-hovercard-prefer-more-content-show=\"1\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a>, there were more summits on Wednesday, September 25, 2019, in what was reported as poor conditions.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/7summitsclub.com\/images\/1x1.gif\" border=\"0\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/7summitsclub.com\/images\/1x1.gif\" border=\"0\" \/><span id=\"fb-timeline-cover-name\" class=\"_2t_q\" data-testid=\"profile_name_in_profile_page\"><a class=\"_2nlw _2nlv\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/rolwalingmingma\">Mingma Sherpa<\/a>&#8216;s Imagine Nepal team who is prepping for a winter K2 attempt summited today. They had six Sherpas in support with five foreigners.\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sst8848\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a>, who has the largest team on Manaslu of over 150 including support had 11 Chinese along with 9 Sherpa plus one Korean and his Sherpa summit. Also, <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbalaya\/\">Climbalaya<\/a>\u00a0had 4 members with 4 Sherpas on top. More to come<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.adventureconsultants.com\/latest-news\/dispatches-manaslu-2019\/\">Adventure Consultants<\/a>, <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/furtenbachadventures\/\">Furtenbach<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/7summitsclub.com\/newssections\/all\/newssection_384\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Club<\/a>, <span id=\"fb-timeline-cover-name\" class=\"_2t_q\" data-testid=\"profile_name_in_profile_page\"><\/span>are all on their summit bids. <a href=\"http:\/\/climbingthesevensummits.com\/progress-on-manaslu\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ArnoldCoster\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Arnold Coster<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitclimb.com\/news\/recent\/manaslu-news\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Summit Climb<\/a> are looking to launch their bid later this week.<\/p>\n<h2>Cho Oyu &#8211; 5 ++ Summits!<\/h2>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/14peakdawa\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a> had 5 people summit today, 2 members and 3 Sherpas.\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">IMG<\/a> posted they have launched their summit bid as have <a href=\"https:\/\/alpenglowexpeditions.com\/blog\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alpenglow<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h2>Shishapangma &#8211; Closed<\/h2>\n<p>The Chinese have officially closed Shish for the season.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With the route open on both Cho Oyu and Manaslu, the summitters are starting to pile up! Probably over 100 summits on [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":21472,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Over 100 summits on Wednesday, September 25 across the Himalaya. China still not responding to Nim's request to climb Shishapangma. Two great climbing videos.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,526],"tags":[432,521,528],"class_list":["post-35113","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2019-coverage","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest-2019-coverage","tag-k2-2019-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/IMG_0275-001.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35113","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=35113"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35113\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/21472"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=35113"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=35113"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=35113"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}