{"id":35159,"date":"2019-09-30T09:48:41","date_gmt":"2019-09-30T15:48:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=35159"},"modified":"2019-09-30T11:31:06","modified_gmt":"2019-09-30T17:31:06","slug":"autumn-2019-himalayan-season-last-cho-oyu-summits-as-china-closes-tibet-to-foreigners","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2019\/09\/30\/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-last-cho-oyu-summits-as-china-closes-tibet-to-foreigners\/","title":{"rendered":"Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Cho Oyu Summits as China Closes Tibet to Foreigners"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>With the autumn Himalaya climbing season winding down many are following 80-year-old Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n on Dhaulagiri, and Kilian Jornet on Everest and of course, the giant hanging serac over the Khumbu Icefall. Teams are arriving for the popular 6,000-meter peak Ama Dablam now.<\/p>\n<h1>Chinese Fear<\/h1>\n<p>China has said all foreigners must be out of Tibet no later than October 1 fearing protests around\u00a0China&#8217;s National Day which commemorates the founding of People&#8217;s Republic of China in 1949. This put pressure on the Cho Oyu climbers this season to accelerate their schedules. Cho has been regularly summited into October and occasionally early November. The sweet spot is from September 18<sup>th<\/sup> through October 6<sup>th<\/sup>.<\/p>\n<p>Additionally, China had said no climbing on Shishapangma a few months ago after a string of deaths and accidents on the lowest of the fourteen 8000ers. They officially have stated they believe the mountain had become too dangerous to climb but most likely that is just an excuse to keep people out of Tibet right now.<\/p>\n<h1>Cho Oyu &#8211; Final Summits for Season<\/h1>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/alpenglowexpeditions.com\/blog\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alpenglow<\/a>\u00a0squeezed under the October 1<sup>st<\/sup> deadline with summits in what guide <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/B236XiJD6ck\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Chad Peele<\/a> called &#8220;difficult conditions&#8221;:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Yesterday our amazing team summited\u00a0#Chooyu\u00a0with warm but overcast skies.\u00a0With all the recent snowfall we had a hell of a time breaking trail and kicking steps but with the help of our support team swapping leads we plowed to the summit!\u00a0Go team Phortse Sherpa ! Although we had a really long summit day, we were able to descend to camp 1 where we continued our hydration and promptly passed TF out. The following morning brought much needed sunshine &amp; warmth and we continued our descent to ABC where we will spend one additional day of rest and organization before trekking to BC and starting our drive back to Lhasa<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>16-year-old girl Australian female, Gabrielle Jane Kanizay, summited with 3 other members and 4 Sherpas with IMG last week to become the youngest female to summit Cho.<\/p>\n<h1>Everest &#8211; Serac Watch<\/h1>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a>&#8216;s team is down to Garret and one client. They are at base camp and plan to wait a few more days to see if anything happens with the serac. I checked in with Garrett his Monday evening and he reported the serac had not fallen. \u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.kilianjornet.cat\/en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kilian Jornet<\/a>\u00a0and his friend Carlos are using Gorak Shep as their base camp but are at Camp 1 today, Monday, September 30, 2019. Jornet had planned to make a speed climb reportedly via a new route from Camp 2. At this point, if he continues with his plan, it may be a solo effort in difficult conditions.<\/p>\n<p>Thus far the CEO of Mountain Hardwear and his film team plus one of their athletes, the Polish National team and <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Jedrek.Bargiel\/\">Andrzej Bargiel<\/a>\u00a0have all abandoned their hopes of an autumn summit after <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Jedrek.Bargiel\/\">Bargiel<\/a>&#8216;s team using their drone spotted the hanging serac. The serac was estimated to be 200-feet\/60-meters high and is about 3,000-feet\/1,000-meters above the midpoint of the Khumbu Icefall. When it falls it, the debris\u00a0is expected to span the entire Icefall all the way to Nuptse destroying any ladders or ropes previously there for the climbing route. In 2014, a similar event took place taking 16 lives as it landed directly on climbers in the \u00a0Icefall.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_35086\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-35086\" style=\"width: 506px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-35086\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-506x480.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"506\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-506x480.jpg 506w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-237x225.jpg 237w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-1000x949.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-230x218.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-350x332.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-480x456.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 506px) 100vw, 506px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-35086\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hanging Serac Icefall in autumn 2019 Courtesy of Andrzej Bargiel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Dhaulagiri &#8211; Summit Push Now<\/h1>\n<p class=\"_2nlv\"><span id=\"fb-timeline-cover-name\" class=\"_2t_q\" data-testid=\"profile_name_in_profile_page\"><a class=\"_2nlw _2nlv\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sergi.mingote.5\">Sergi Mingote<\/a>,<\/span>\u00a0<span id=\"fb-timeline-cover-name\" class=\"_2t_q\" data-testid=\"profile_name_in_profile_page\"><a class=\"_2nlw _2nlv\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/carlos.soriafontan\">Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n<\/a>\u00a0at age 80,\u00a0<\/span><a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ChrisJensenBurke\/\">Chris Jensen Burke<\/a> and <a class=\"_64-f\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/exbasenepal\/\">Expedition Base<\/a>\u00a0are all on their summit push hoping to beat incoming weather later this week.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_27810\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-27810\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-27810\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Carlos-Soria-Fontan-on-Dhaulagiri-in-2017-640x421.jpg\" alt=\"Carlos Soria Fontan on Dhaulagiri in 2017\" width=\"640\" height=\"421\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Carlos-Soria-Fontan-on-Dhaulagiri-in-2017-640x421.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Carlos-Soria-Fontan-on-Dhaulagiri-in-2017-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Carlos-Soria-Fontan-on-Dhaulagiri-in-2017.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-27810\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carlos Soria Fontan on Dhaulagiri in 2017<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h1>Manaslu: Last of the Summit Pushes<\/h1>\n<p>The Climbing the Seven Summits team is now at Camp 3 on their summit push. They are in one of the last waves this season.<\/p>\n<h1><strong>Project Possible: China Remains Quiet on Nirmal Purja&#8217; Permit<\/strong><\/h1>\n<p><a class=\"fullname ProfileNameTruncated-link u-textInheritColor js-nav\" href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/Nimraldai\" data-aria-label-part=\"\">Nirmal Purja<\/a>\u00a0is on hold waiting for a thumbs up or down on China issuing him a permit to climb Shishapangma the only 8000er solely located within Tibet. Of course, we all know his project is to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months. Now he\u00a0has 13 in a mere 157 days: Annapurna (April 23), Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, K2, Broad Peak and Cho Oyu and, Manaslu (Sept 27). He needs to complete Shish by November 23 to meet his goal of seven months.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With the autumn Himalaya climbing season winding down many are following 80-year-old Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n on Dhaulagiri, and Kilian Jornet on Everest [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":25293,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"With the autumn Himalaya climbing season winding down many are following 80 y\/o Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n on Dhaulagiri, Kilian Jornet on Everest and of course, the giant hanging serac.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,526],"tags":[432,521],"class_list":["post-35159","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2019-coverage","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest-2019-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/dhaulagiri_climbing_map.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35159","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=35159"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35159\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/25293"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=35159"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=35159"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=35159"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}