{"id":35191,"date":"2019-10-05T15:25:49","date_gmt":"2019-10-05T21:25:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=35191"},"modified":"2019-10-05T17:19:47","modified_gmt":"2019-10-05T23:19:47","slug":"autumn-2019-himalayan-season-new-everest-serac-picture-more-on-manaslu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2019\/10\/05\/autumn-2019-himalayan-season-new-everest-serac-picture-more-on-manaslu\/","title":{"rendered":"Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: New Everest Serac Picture"},"content":{"rendered":"

Well, the autumn\u00a0Himalaya season seems to\u00a0have a second breath on Manaslu. Disaster nearly avoided on Dhaulagiri climbers and a new picture of the hanging serac over the Everest Khumbu Icefall. Russians are back on Manaslu<\/del>. \u00a0Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n\u00a0at age 80<\/span>\u00a0will make one more summit bid on Dhaulagiri. And, an unclimbed route on Ama Dablam.<\/p>\n

Everest – Serac Watch<\/h1>\n

Madison Mountaineering<\/a>‘s team is down to Garret and one client. They are at base camp and seem content to wait as long as their permit allows (which is mid October) to see if anything happens with the serac. Garrett checked in and posted a new picture:<\/p>\n

Today is October 5th.\u00a0 Great day here at Everest base camp \u2014 sunny day, great views, nice people around.\u00a0The Serac is still up there so we\u2019re not heading up the mountian anytime soon.\u00a0 Everyone\u2019s doing well and we\u2019ll check in soon.\u00a0 Thanks.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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2019.10.05 The Serac circled is still hanging on up there seems to be leaning more every day but just hasn\u2019t fallen yet. Courtesy of Madison Mountaineering<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Garrett also announced a new line of clothing and gear developed with Mountain Hardwear:<\/p>\n

I\u2019m very proud and excited to announce the launch of Mountain Hardwear\u2019s \u2018Garrett Madison Collection<\/a>\u2019, the very finest clothing and equipment for high altitude mountaineering in the world\u2019s most extreme conditions.\u00a0This gear has been meticulously designed and rigorously tested to the highest standards, for climbers wishing to challenge themselves on the world\u2019s highest peaks, a collaboration between Mountain Hardwear and myself.<\/p>\n

A new standard has been set, thank you Mountain Hardwear for seeing the vision and following through on the hard work to create this elite product line, enabling high altitude climbers the best opportunity to achieve our dreams!\u00a0<\/span>Link in bio! -some items such as Trango tents and Phantom sleeping bags are available now, other items coming soon!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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Blow it up?<\/h2>\n

I’ve had many questions and suggestions as to why the serac is not blown up like are done to remove objective dangers and avalanche danger on ski resorts. Well, first off it is in Nepal’s Sagamartha National Park and a World Heritage site so “destroying” the environment is strictly forbidden. Then there is the matter of scale, size, and debris field – it would be massive, perhaps more so than when it simply falls naturally thus creating even more impact to the area below. Also, not sure exactly how one o=would do this. By helicopter or cannon or experts climbing up and placing dynamite? In any case, it would be a logistical challenge, to say the least. But I think the overriding reason is this is a natural occurrence on a mountain side. Climbing is optional and if no one ever climbed Everest by this route again, well the Sherpas and guides and some with dreams would be financially and ego damaged but the world would still go around.<\/p>\n

No solid update on Kilian Jornet<\/a>\u00a0and his friend Carlos. They are using Gorak Shep as their base camp but have made several climbs into the Western Cwm. Jornet had planned to make a speed climb reportedly via a new route from Camp 2. At this point, if he continues with his plan, it may be a solo effort in difficult conditions.<\/p>\n

Ama Dablam – On the Trek<\/h1>\n

Climbers finally got to Lukla and are now on the trek to Ama Dablam.\u00a0Joshua Ross<\/a>\u00a0is on his way to attempt the standard route while\u00a0<\/span>Nima Namgyal Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0posted “Amadablam North Ridge. Not sure if there has been any successful summit after 1979. Some pictures from our sherpa (Nawang Tenjing )who went twice with Himex a few years ago. Another attempt underway this fall.”<\/p>\n

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Ama Dablam North Ridge. Courtesy of Nima Namgyal Sherpa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dhaulagiri Summit Near Disaster<\/h1>\n

Sergi Mingote<\/a>\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0provided more details on his no O’s summit on Dhaulagiri:<\/p>\n

The summit day was a day of overcoming and surpassing my limits, but I can finally say that I got it! I’m back in Base Camp. I haven’t explained this yet to my family, but during the descent, alone and when it was almost night, I did not correctly perform a descent manoeuvre and I had an important shock. One of those which teach you! Friends, it will not happen again. I had a hard time tonight. The tiny tent that I had in Camp 3 had been covered in snow and I’ve been shrinking and frozen for a few hours.<\/p>\n

The seventh highest mountain in the world is already part of the #14x1000catalanoniaproject. A dour mountain which gave several autumn seasons without letting any climber in the world climb. I am proud to be the third alpinist of the year to get it, and the most important thing, I\u2019m the first to achieve it without the use of bottled oxygen!<\/p>\n

In fact, yesterday, only my Chilean friend, Juan Pablo Mohr, and I could go up without oxygen. He went down much later because he got lost during the descent. As for Moes, he had hands frozen, which left him very close to the top. It was a pity<\/p>\n

Dhaulagiri, a great mountain, the Olympic Project #pirineusbarcelona2030, a great sports project. We will continue all together this great country project. DREAM BIG FRIENDS<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Looks like\u00a0Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n<\/a>\u00a0at age 80<\/span>\u00a0will make one more summit bid next week on his 10th attempt. He only needs Dhaulagiri and Shishapangma to complete all 14 8000ers.<\/p>\n

Manaslu – Seriouly Over<\/h1>\n

Well, I said a few days ago that Manaslu was done but then found out the Russians were there but just as I hit the post button on this update found out they have stopped!: Odd they didn’t bring gear to fix their own route knowing they were coming in after the others would have left ….<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, we stopped climbing. There’s no one left on the mountain. Even when we went up to base camp, we met dozens of locals taking miles of ladders, stairs and everything that was left of the expedition. On their way to camp first camp, all ropes were cut off. At Height of 5900, they fell into an impenetrable crack crossing the entire ice. Tried to search for rounds, but without ice gear and ice gear, it was impossible…<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Winter Solo Everest Attempt Planned<\/h1>\n

Jost Kobusch, 27 years-old from Germany, has confirmed that he plans\u00a0to climb Everest by a rarely used route, the West Ridge and Hornbein Couloir – solo and without supplemental oxygen. This is never been done. \u00a0He adds on his YouTube video:<\/p>\n

I want to satisfy my curiosity. See what it’s like to be a little child on the biggest playground in the world – Mount Everest. It’s the big goals that appeal to me. The extreme conditions. The cold. The journey into my own mind. Minimalistic. In winter. Solo. Without artificial oxygen. This is my idea of mountaineering – also on Everest. I am curious whether it will work. Follow me.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki\u00a0made an autumn attempt by the West Ridge in 2012 but never summited He died during an attempt on the standard Southeast Ridge in 2018. Kobusch has put his chances of summiting at 5%. “I have a 5% chance of getting there, maybe less.”\u00a0But he plans to store some experience for a second attempt, later.”<\/p>\n

(click on cc for subtitles and then the * for English)
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