{"id":35475,"date":"2019-10-28T14:39:58","date_gmt":"2019-10-28T20:39:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=35475"},"modified":"2019-10-30T15:03:07","modified_gmt":"2019-10-30T21:03:07","slug":"project-possible-update-shishapangma-summit-bid-underway","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2019\/10\/28\/project-possible-update-shishapangma-summit-bid-underway\/","title":{"rendered":"Project Possible Update: Shishapangma Summit Bid Underway"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Nirmal Purja and the team are fighting high winds and tough route finding as they make their way towards the summit of Shishapangma. They were scheduled to be on their final push on Tuesday, October 29. No update as of this post. Shish is the lowest of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks at 8,027 meters\/26,335\u00a0feet located totally within Tibet.<\/p>\n<p>As usual, they are climbing in one push, aka alpine style, bypassing any acclimatization. \u00a0He posted an update on <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/hashtag\/14peaks7months?src=hash\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Twitter<\/a> from\u00a0October 26:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Yesterday, we had a pretty tough day. We climbed for 15 hrs non stop in an extreme weather conditions with the wind speed of more than 75 km\/hr. Spent more than 3 hrs finding the way\/route on the glacier.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>And this video:<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 636px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-35475-1\" width=\"636\" height=\"360\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/mp4\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Nirmal%20Purja-2019-Shispangma-storm.mp4?_=1\" \/><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Nirmal%20Purja-2019-Shispangma-storm.mp4\">http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Nirmal%20Purja-2019-Shispangma-storm.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p>The weather looks extremely cold temperatures but high winds with no precip.<\/p>\n<h2>Background<\/h2>\n<p>The crux will be the final\u00a0climb across the knife-edge traverse.\u00a0As shown in this image from edviestures.com, the main summit is in the right distance. The ridge is about 100-meters\/300-feet long leading to the true summit which is only about 15-meters\/ 45-feet higher than the central summit. It should take about an hour for Nirmal Purja to\u00a0cross, then he has to return the same way.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_35247\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-35247\" style=\"width: 636px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-35247 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-636x480.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"636\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-636x480.jpg 636w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-298x225.jpg 298w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-1536x1159.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-2048x1546.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-1000x755.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-230x174.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-350x264.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Screen-Shot-2019-10-16-at-Wednesday-Oct-1654.06-PM-480x362.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 636px) 100vw, 636px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-35247\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Veikka Gustafsson on the knife-edge ridge to Shishapangma Main Summit April 30, 2001 &#8211; Himalayan Quest Ed Viesturs on the 8,000-Meter Giants book<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>These are the usual camps:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Base Camp (BC) 5000m, 16,400 feet: BC &#8211; ABC 9 miles, 6 hours start of the trip, 4 hours end of the trip<\/li>\n<li>Advanced base camp (ABC) 5600m, 18,375 feet: ABC &#8211; C1 3.7 miles, 8 hours the first time, 6 hours thereafter (one way)<\/li>\n<li>C1 6400m, 21,000 feet: C1 &#8211; C2 .6 miles, 4-5 hours<\/li>\n<li>C2 7100m, 23,300 feet: C2 &#8211; C3 .6 miles, 3-5 hours<\/li>\n<li>C3 7500m, 24,600 feet: C3 &#8211; Summit .6 miles, 7 hours<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>See my previous <a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2019\/10\/16\/nirmal-purja-travels-to-shishapangma-for-number-14\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">post<\/a> for details on the climb.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>Your Opinion<\/h1>\n<p>[poll id=&#8221;32&#8243;]<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1><strong>Project Possible<\/strong><\/h1>\n<p>Of course, we all know Nirmal Purja&#8217;s project is to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months. In order to achieve his timeline,\u00a0he needs to summit Shish by November 23. If he summits on October 29<sup>th<\/sup>, he will have summited all 14 in 190 days.<\/p>\n<p>These are the 8000ers Nirmal Purja and team have summited thus far:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Annapurna \u2013\u00a0April 23<\/li>\n<li>Dhaulagiri \u2013 May 12<\/li>\n<li>Kanchenjunga \u2013 May 15<\/li>\n<li>Lhotse \u2013 May 22<\/li>\n<li>Everest \u2013 May 22<\/li>\n<li>Makalu \u2013 May 24<\/li>\n<li>Nanga Parbat \u2013 July 03<\/li>\n<li>Gasherbrum I \u2013 July 15<\/li>\n<li>Gasherbrum II \u2013 July 18<\/li>\n<li>K2 \u2013 July 24<\/li>\n<li>Broad Peak \u2013 July 26<\/li>\n<li>Cho Oyu \u2013 September 23<\/li>\n<li>Manaslu \u2013 September 27<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>The other members with Nirmal Purja for Shish includes Mingma David Sherpa, Gesman Tamang, Gyalzen Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa.<\/p>\n<p>In 2013, Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set the current record for all 14 in 7 years, 10 months, 6 days. The previous record was set in 1987 by\u00a0Polish alpinist Jerzy Kukuczka climbing all 14 in 7 years, 11 months, 14 days.<\/p>\n<p>Best of luck to everyone!<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p>NOTE: I apologize for connection problems with the website. I am in the process of moving to a faster server and, obviously, it has not goe well. I appreciate your patience as I strive to provide a fast, reliable\u00a0website.<\/p>\n<p>Feature image is courtesy of Ed Viesturs: Veikka Gustafsson on the knife-edge ridge to Shishapangma Main Summit April 30, 2001 \u2013 Himalayan Quest Ed Viesturs on the 8,000-Meter Giants book<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Nirmal Purja and the team are fighting high winds and tough route finding as they make their way towards the summit of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Nirmal Purja and team are fighting high winds and tough route finding on their Shishapangma summit push hoping for the last of the fourteen 8000m peaks he summited in 190 days.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7],"tags":[432,518],"class_list":["post-35475","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-climbing-news","tag-climbing-news","tag-shishapangma"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35475","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=35475"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35475\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=35475"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=35475"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=35475"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}