{"id":35915,"date":"2020-02-05T12:24:57","date_gmt":"2020-02-05T19:24:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=35915"},"modified":"2020-03-07T17:14:32","modified_gmt":"2020-03-08T00:14:32","slug":"2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-update-on-everest-hanging-serac","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2020\/02\/05\/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-update-on-everest-hanging-serac\/","title":{"rendered":"2019\/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Update on Everest Hanging Serac"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Last Autumn, several teams abandoned their Everest climbs fearing a teetering serac above the Khumbu Icefall. It was so massive that if it fell, it would shatter directly on top of their route killing anyone there instantly. Echos of a similar release in 2014 were loud. That incident killed 16 Sherpas. So the big question has been, is it still there?<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_35086\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-35086\" style=\"width: 506px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-35086 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-506x480.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"506\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-506x480.jpg 506w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-237x225.jpg 237w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-1000x949.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-230x218.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-350x332.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1-480x456.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 506px) 100vw, 506px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-35086\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hanging Serac Icefall in autumn 2019 Courtesy of Andrzej Bargiel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_35194\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-35194\" style=\"width: 401px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-35194 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920-401x480.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"401\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920-401x480.jpg 401w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920-188x225.jpg 188w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920-230x276.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920-350x419.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920-480x575.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/2019.10.05-The-Serac-circled-is-still-hanging-on-up-there-seems-to-be-leaning-more-every-day-but-just-hasn\u2019t-fallen-yet-768x920.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 401px) 100vw, 401px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-35194\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">2019.10.05 The Serac circled is still hanging on up there seems to be leaning more every day but just hasn\u2019t fallen yet. Courtesy of Madison Mountaineering<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_16241\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-16241\" style=\"width: 564px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-16241 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/2019.09.22-Photo-of-serac-above-with-3-climbers-below...-564x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Photo of serac above, with 3 climbers below...\" width=\"564\" height=\"1024\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-16241\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-16241\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo of serac above, with 3 climbers below&#8230; Courtesy of Madison Mountaineering<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The serac hangs about 3,000 ft\u200b\u3010914\u00a0m\u3011up off of the Khumbu Icefall on the west shoulder of Mount Everest, midway above the Icefall&#8217;s Football Field spot. It was estimated to 200-300 feet tall.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobusch<\/a>\u00a0is taking the West Ridge thus has not made a comment, however, last Autumn, Garrett Madison of <a href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.kilianjornet.cat\/en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kilian Jornet<\/a>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pg\/Jedrek.Bargiel\/posts\/?ref=page_internal\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Andrzej Bargiel<\/a> made ongoing comments about the status as they observed it from base camp or from a drone. Jornet sped through the icefall a few times taking the risk.<\/p>\n<h2>Still There<\/h2>\n<p>I reached out to <a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a>&#8216;s home team for an update, and it looks like it&#8217;s still hanging up there. \u00a0This is the direct answer from Angela Benavides, their Press Manager:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>I&#8217;ve asked Mingma, the ice doctor in Txikon&#8217;s expedition. He says that the serac is <em><strong>still there and still dangerous<\/strong><\/em>, but that they have come up with an alternative, safer route through the Icefall.<\/p>\n<p>Also, Alex mentioned that the wind is so strong, it has made many seracs crumble down, leaving instead lots of chaotic rubble, difficult to traverse but otherwise somehow safer.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>What are the implications for the spring season remains unclear. I anticipate a few teams will cancel their Nepal side expeditions altogether or switch to the Tibet side. I&#8217;ve already had one team tell me they will not climb from Nepal this year for a number of reasons. I&#8217;ll do a separate post on them later this week, its an interesting story and perhaps a harbinger of things to come for Nepal if nothing changes.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Winter 2019\/20<\/h2>\n<h3>Everest At Camp 2<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobusch<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; at EBC<\/li>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; At C1 in Cwm.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>K2 &#8211; Over<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Broad Peak, then K2? &#8211; On BP Summit Push<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Denis Urubko &#8211; On Summit Push<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>Batura Sar &#8211; Climbing at C1<\/strong><\/h3>\n<h3>Ama Dablam<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3, Alex Goldfarb &#8211; <\/strong>Summitted<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Gasherbrum I\/II &#8211; Over<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger &#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Last Autumn, several teams abandoned their Everest climbs fearing a teetering serac above the Khumbu Icefall. It was so massive that if [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":35086,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Last Autumn, teams abandoned their Everest climbs fearing a teetering serac above the Khumbu Icefall. So the big question has been, is it still there? We now know.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,552,81,422,527,562],"tags":[448,553,42,560,561],"class_list":["post-35915","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2020-coverage","category-everest-news","category-k2","category-k2-2019-coverage","category-k2-2020-coverage","tag-everest","tag-everest-2020-coverage","tag-k2","tag-k2-2020-coverage","tag-winter-8000ers"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Hanging-Serac-Icefall-1.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35915","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=35915"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35915\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/35086"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=35915"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=35915"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=35915"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}