{"id":35950,"date":"2020-02-11T13:05:12","date_gmt":"2020-02-11T20:05:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=35950"},"modified":"2020-03-07T17:14:28","modified_gmt":"2020-03-08T00:14:28","slug":"2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-warming-conditions","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2020\/02\/11\/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-warming-conditions\/","title":{"rendered":"2019\/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Warming Conditions"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The cold is easing up a bit allowing more movement on Everest. No word from Denis Urubko on Broad Peak.<\/p>\n<h2>Everest<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Txikon on Southeast Ridge &#8211; At EBC<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0and team are hoping to leave EBC for Camp 3 or even 4 at the South Col in a day or so. Txikon&#8217;s posted this update on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alex.txikon.5\/posts\/2557370107723347?__tn__=K-R\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook<\/a>\u00a0and <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/AlexTxikon\/status\/1224687654937206784\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Twitter<\/a><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Finally, after one month know the Himalaya, we can have lunch outside!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>His team includes Spaniard Oscar Cardo, and Nepalese Sherpas Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Pechhumbe Sherpa, and Tenjen Sherpa. You can follow him on his <a href=\"\/\/racetracker.es\/rt\/RoadToHimalaya\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tracker<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Jost on West Ridge &#8211; At EBC<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>German alpinist <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobusch<\/a><\/strong>, is seeing the predicted warming temps but summit conditions remain too tough to even attempt. \u00a0In review, he plans on a winter, solo Everest climb without supplemental oxygen and no Sherpa support. This exact style has never been attempted or accomplished. You can track his location on this excellent map from <a href=\"http:\/\/everest3d.de\/jost-kobusch-live-tracking-everest\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">3D Reality Maps<\/a>. He have this update Tuesday, February 11, 2020 on Facebook:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Just checked the weather forecast &#8211; the temperatures tend to rise &#8211; spring is coming! Summit temperatures of minus 69, like yesterday, are no longer in prospect. Today it is less windy &#8211; 20km\/h wind and up to 60km\/h gusts. For the lower part of the route this would be fine, but from tomorrow on in the upper part of the mountain there will be constant wind around 40km\/h and gusts around 100km\/h for the next days. As a benchmark<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x27a1;&#xfe0f;<\/span><\/span>in good weather, a summit ascent could work if the gusts reach a maximum of 40km\/h and otherwise it&#8217;s rather 20km\/h wind &#8211; and even that would be damn cold!\u00a0<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x1f92a;<\/span><\/span><span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x2600;<\/span><\/span><span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x2744;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0Small disclaimer: The weather forecast yesterday was definitively refuted &#8211; it was the opposite of what was announced!<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x1f648;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0I decided to go up again and see how the conditions are &#8216;really&#8217; &#8211; without a doubt the wind is blowing at the summit but maybe I&#8217;ll still manage to have a look at the upper part of the route.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/photos\/a.199412386903586\/1397127450465401\/?type=3&amp;theater\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-35952\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobusch-on-Everest-February-2020-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobusch-on-Everest-February-2020-1.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobusch-on-Everest-February-2020-1-225x225.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobusch-on-Everest-February-2020-1-480x480.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobusch-on-Everest-February-2020-1-1000x1000.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobusch-on-Everest-February-2020-1-230x230.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobusch-on-Everest-February-2020-1-350x350.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h2>Broad Peak<\/h2>\n<p>No update from Denis Urubko who was last reported at base camp waiting for improved weather.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Winter 2019\/20<\/h2>\n<h3>Everest<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobusch<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; at EBC<\/li>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; At EBC<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>K2<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Broad Peak<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Denis Urubko &#8211; Base Camp<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>Batura Sar\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n<h3>Ama Dablam<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3, Alex Goldfarb &#8211; <\/strong>Summitted<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Gasherbrum I\/II &#8211; Over<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger &#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The cold is easing up a bit allowing more movement on Everest. No word from Denis Urubko on Broad Peak. Everest Txikon [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":35952,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"The cold is easing up a bit allowing more movement on Everest. 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