{"id":35957,"date":"2020-02-12T13:21:34","date_gmt":"2020-02-12T20:21:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=35957"},"modified":"2020-03-07T17:14:28","modified_gmt":"2020-03-08T00:14:28","slug":"2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-wind-stops-everyone","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2020\/02\/12\/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-wind-stops-everyone\/","title":{"rendered":"2019\/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Wind Stops Everyone"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The good news is it is a bit warmer on both Everest and Broad Peak, the bad news, it&#8217;s too windy to climb. Time is running out for Urbuko on Broad Peak. Porters are coming on February 20.<\/p>\n<h2>Everest<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Txikon on Southeast Ridge &#8211; Holding at EBC<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0and team were hoping to leave EBC for Camp 3 or even 4 at the South Col but high winds at EBC flattened tents and gave them pause about conditions higher. So they are holding for a bit more. Txikon&#8217;s posted this update on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alex.txikon.5\/posts\/2557370107723347?__tn__=K-R\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook<\/a>\u00a0and <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/AlexTxikon\/status\/1224687654937206784\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Twitter<\/a><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>As we mentioned yesterday, Everest can hit us really hard &#8211; even in Base Camp! The wind has flattened our tents, despite being cutting-edge, best quality equipment. But 89km\/h gusts are unforgiving. We wanted to set off tomorrow, but that&#8217;s not going to happen. Cheers!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>His team includes Spaniard Oscar Cardo, and Nepalese Sherpas Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Pechhumbe Sherpa, and Tenjen Sherpa. You can follow him on his <a href=\"\/\/racetracker.es\/rt\/RoadToHimalaya\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tracker<\/a>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_35959\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-35959\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alex.txikon.5\/photos\/pcb.2576824605777897\/2576823825777975\/?type=3&amp;theater\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-35959\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020-230x173.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020-350x263.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020-480x360.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-35959\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alex Tixkon tent at EBC February 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Jost on West Ridge &#8211; At C1<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>German alpinist <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobusch<\/a><\/strong>, returned to his Camp 1 at 5933 m | 19465 ft but the big winds are probably giving his pause as it did for Txikon. \u00a0In review, he plans on a winter, solo Everest climb without supplemental oxygen and no Sherpa support. This exact style has never been attempted or accomplished. You can track his location on this excellent map from <a href=\"http:\/\/everest3d.de\/jost-kobusch-live-tracking-everest\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">3D Reality Maps<\/a>. He has this update Tuesday, February 11, 2020, on Facebook:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Just checked the weather forecast &#8211; the temperatures tend to rise &#8211; spring is coming! Summit temperatures of minus 69, like yesterday, are no longer in prospect. Today it is less windy &#8211; 20km\/h wind and up to 60km\/h gusts. For the lower part of the route this would be fine, but from tomorrow on in the upper part of the mountain there will be constant wind around 40km\/h and gusts around 100km\/h for the next days. As a benchmark<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x27a1;&#xfe0f;<\/span><\/span>in good weather, a summit ascent could work if the gusts reach a maximum of 40km\/h and otherwise it&#8217;s rather 20km\/h wind &#8211; and even that would be damn cold!\u00a0<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x1f92a;<\/span><\/span><span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x2600;<\/span><\/span><span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x2744;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0Small disclaimer: The weather forecast yesterday was definitively refuted &#8211; it was the opposite of what was announced!<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x1f648;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0I decided to go up again and see how the conditions are &#8216;really&#8217; &#8211; without a doubt the wind is blowing at the summit but maybe I&#8217;ll still manage to have a look at the upper part of the route.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h2>Broad Peak &#8211; Waiting<\/h2>\n<p>Denis Urubko is taking short walks to stay fit and prevent extreme boredom as he waits for the next window in a week or so.\u00a0From <a class=\"profileLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/montagnaTv\/?__tn__=K-R&amp;eid=ARCd2CU7qSatB2EruzF2ueSYubiTcjwJH0ZgtGgKybHgqa7kwwgDOZzgdhLquU2IGVBLu2I2hXXyul1h&amp;fref=mentions&amp;__xts__%5B0%5D=68.ARCC_7JVMXkX5Iy_rlRddgtbBq_buDH5GRUQmPk0eWy7Ywd8KZIMq_91JJHVl2S-5DpBBzC2yzx2Cgva2HG8NJxzilUPQOlxtjfV0t0iTchRmsn76UUCKknvHBRVQIky-TmKJFEHRsz6VhglDGGSXFwJ8C_BfgHTm73njBsmB37fsvqJEor-QdYUNHL1aNKrgearFLI3uUC0-sak1NL0JoSFhqy8VSphIEEG0WzF7aBHqV1NxijRKZZS-MoXFElDdgF_Uo7PkgeYyImgUou4lbg62js1zDS-_4_R8rfBM2eaFhZHLZEmaCVw1ZgDYVqFGhLT-wdHz1-tnDpAAdYDPG-pLjyRo1yS7HUilcU1w067iD65xNzSCHn3p6NnIU09OSyCJyqt2AukNgWESmdtcCy7SdNx_gMCV_xTSEUcIIsFp3Yh-y_ZhNTSlB5-2nvNvKcQ0vErsXzB4L6PfwjjHFq7X3lyCXB0Dg3ZVmCQhVc7v0mgeWfK86i4\" data-hovercard=\"\/ajax\/hovercard\/page.php?id=279973688764143&amp;extragetparams=%7B%22__tn__%22%3A%22%2CdK-R-R%22%2C%22eid%22%3A%22ARCd2CU7qSatB2EruzF2ueSYubiTcjwJH0ZgtGgKybHgqa7kwwgDOZzgdhLquU2IGVBLu2I2hXXyul1h%22%2C%22fref%22%3A%22mentions%22%7D\" data-hovercard-prefer-more-content-show=\"1\">montagna.tv<\/a><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Quick translation: Denis feels strong.\u00a0He went down to Concordia for training (4h walk).\u00a0<span class=\"text_exposed_show\">Next good weather window will be 16-18 February&#8230;MAYBE there will be an attempt to summit.\u00a0February 20 the BC will be dismantled<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Winter 2019\/20<\/h2>\n<h3>Everest<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobusch<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; at EBC<\/li>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; At EBC<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>K2<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Broad Peak<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Denis Urubko &#8211; Base Camp<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>Batura Sar\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n<h3>Ama Dablam<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3, Alex Goldfarb &#8211; <\/strong>Summitted<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Gasherbrum I\/II &#8211; Over<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger &#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The good news is it is a bit warmer on both Everest and Broad Peak, the bad news, it&#8217;s too windy to [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":35959,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"The good news is it is a bit warmer on both Everest & Broad Peak, the bad news, it's too windy to climb. Time is running out for Urbuko on Broad Peak. Porters coming on February 20","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,526,552,81,216,422,527,562],"tags":[432,448,553,42,560,561],"class_list":["post-35957","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2019-coverage","category-everest-2020-coverage","category-everest-news","category-everest-popular-posts","category-k2","category-k2-2019-coverage","category-k2-2020-coverage","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2020-coverage","tag-k2","tag-k2-2020-coverage","tag-winter-8000ers"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Alex-Tixkon-tent-at-EBC-February-2020.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35957","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=35957"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/35957\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/35959"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=35957"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=35957"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=35957"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}