{"id":36088,"date":"2020-02-27T09:16:31","date_gmt":"2020-02-27T16:16:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=36088"},"modified":"2020-03-07T17:14:20","modified_gmt":"2020-03-08T00:14:20","slug":"2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-over-for-all","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2020\/02\/27\/2019-20-winter-himalaya-climbs-over-for-all\/","title":{"rendered":"2019\/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Over for All"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>And then there were none. Alex Txikon ended his effort as did Jost Kobuschh. Everest in winter is just too difficult this year. Everyone is back at base camp now. There were no winter summits on the four 8000ers attempted this winter: Everest, K2, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum I\/II. Now, on to the spring season!<\/p>\n<p>Join me as I do my annual coverage of the spring Everest season at this <a href=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/everest\/everest-2020-coverage\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">link<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h2>Everest &#8211; Over<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Jost on West Ridge &#8211; Over<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>German alpinist,\u00a0<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobuschh&#8217;s<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0is back down to base camp after tagging his high point at 7,329-meters\/23,750-feet. He said before starting the expedition, he would be pleased to tag 8,000-meters so he got close. Well done by any measure.<\/p>\n<p>He posted on Facebook this update:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>I have reached my goal\u00a0<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x1f973;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0&#8211; the ascent was planned to reach 7200m again and I reached 7360m!\u00a0I felt great up there and took some pictures.\u00a0Could even have continued, the weather seemed to be holding up, but my intuition told me: stop &#8211; if you want to tackle the summit you should have stayed at least at 7500m-8000m beforehand and voted again\u00a0<span class=\"text_exposed_show\">be there!\u00a0That would not have been possible this winter due to time constraints and then walking the long ridge did not convince me (especially since my ligament stretching and my stomach problems already significantly reduce the safety reserves and can always cause surprises).<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span class=\"text_exposed_show\">\u00a0Yesterday (February 25th, 2020) I got off my Camp 2, which I set up at 6850m, when the snow started to fall.\u00a0The west shoulder is very exposed to avalanches under these conditions and when I rappelled it washed over me!\u00a0Luckily I was roped up and secured, so that it was more like going into the whitewater.\u00a0The most dangerous thing would have been to get carried away and fly down your shoulder.\u00a0Since my GPS battery was empty, I had last night (February 25th),\u00a0because of all the snowfall my camp 1 could not be found.\u00a0So, very old school, I just had to pitch my tent where I honestly had no idea where I was &#8211; in the middle of the glacier<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#x1f605;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0!\u00a0Last night (from the 25th to the 26th) it snowed a<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">lot<\/span><\/span>\u00a0and the conditions tightened again<span class=\"_5mfr\"><span class=\"_6qdm\">&#8211;<\/span><\/span>\u00a0so it was the right decision to stay!\u00a0Take a look out for my Camp 1 and descend tomorrow (February 27th, 2020) with my stuff to the base camp<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>In review, he was attempting a winter, solo Everest climb without supplemental oxygen and no Sherpa support. This exact style and the route had never been attempted or accomplished. You can see his route on this excellent map from <a href=\"http:\/\/everest3d.de\/jost-kobusch-live-tracking-everest\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">3D Reality Maps<\/a>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_36092\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-36092\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jostkobusch.com\/de\/live-tracking#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-36092\" title=\"Jost Kobuschh Final\u00a0Everest Winter Route\" src=\"http:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-576x480.jpg\" alt=\"Jost Kobuschh Final\u00a0Everest Winter Route\" width=\"800\" height=\"666\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-576x480.jpg 576w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-270x225.jpg 270w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-1536x1279.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-1000x833.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-230x192.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-350x292.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2-480x400.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/Jost-Kobuschh-Everest-Winter-Route-2.jpg 1856w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-36092\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jost Kobuschh Final\u00a0Everest Winter Route<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Txikon and Tashi &#8211; Over<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0and the team were dumped on by unexpected big snow creating dangerous conditions on the Lhotse Face. They have ended their summit plans. \u00a0This was Txikon&#8217;s third winter Everest attempt. Angela Benavides, Press Manager,\u00a0sent out this release that read in part:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>No way to get to C3. 45cm of fresh, unstable snow on the Lhotse face have proven too dangerous.\u00a0 We also had some close calls with avalanches yesterday. It&#8217;s so frustrating! we&#8217;re strong and willing to go on, but conditions are unforgiving. We must go down and, on the way, pass again by the side of Nuptse and the Khumbu Icefall. We will be careful.<\/p>\n<p>As we mentioned in our previous email, Alex Txikon&#8217;s attempt on winter Everest is definitely over. The team&#8217;s climbing permit is ends on Feb29, so that there is no time to launch a new summit push once the snow on the Lhotse face settle. The team will spend tonight at camp 2. Tomorrow, they&#8217;re retrieve all their gear and camps, and proceed down to BC. We will be watching for news and reports from the team, since it is yet to be seen in which conditions will the team encounter the Khumbu Icefall. We will update as soon as the climbers make it safely back to BC.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Seven Summits Treks CEO <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/breathlesstheworldshighestrace\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tashi Lakpa Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0along with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa, and Halung Dorchi Sherpa jumped on Txikon&#8217;s coattails at the last minute to no avail. This was their update:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Team decided to return from just below the camp-3. Due, 34 hours of fresh and soft snowfall in blue ice the surface is more slippery seems quiet danger.<\/p>\n<p>After 34 hours of continuous snowfall, it started again with the rising wind. The conditions to become normal takes at least 3 days. So, on that time frame \u201cBreathless Winter Everest Speed Climbing 2020\u201dtime frame won\u2019t be able to accomplish. In Nepal 29th February is the end of the winter. So, winter expedition ascent validity is only for end of February.<\/p>\n<p>Therefore, our team Project team and Sherpa decided to end this expedition. Highest Point reached for the expedition will be noted \/recorded just below the camp-3.<\/p>\n<p>The team members are safe and they will be back to Camp 2 today.\u201d Despite the challenges in the winter expedition teams have shown the courage to tackle all. This project has shown dream big in the future.<\/p>\n<p>Thank you, everyone, for your support in the journey. We would like to thank International media coverage, local media coverage, media person, colleagues, friends and family who have shown love, encouragement, and courage to this project.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h2><strong>Batura Sar &#8211; Camp 3<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>The remaining big mountain team is still making progress. In preparing for a 2020\/21 K2 winter attempt, <strong>Piotr Tomala, Rafa\u0142 Fronia,\u00a0\u00a0Wojciech Flaczy\u0144ski, Filip Babicz, Mariusz Hatala, Kacper K\u0142oda, Marco Schwidergall, and Oswald Rodrigo\u00a0<\/strong>are attempting the first winter at Batura Sar, an impressive 7,795-meter peak, located in the western Karakoram Pakistan. The latest from their <a href=\"https:\/\/www.polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl\/aktualnosci\/ruszyla-wyprawa-programu-polski-himalaizm-zimowy-na-bature\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">site<\/a>:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>On Friday, February 21, a three-member team left the Base: Wojciech Flaczy\u0144ski, Rafa\u0142 Fronia and Marco Schwidergall.\u00a0The climbers spent the night in Camp first, then headed up.\u00a0On the way to CII, they managed to free several hundred meters of railing ropes from snow and ice.\u00a0The action was hampered by deep snow all the time.\u00a0The team spent another night at Camp 2 (6,000 m).\u00a0On Sunday, after several hours of action, the climbers reached a height of 6400 meters.\u00a0They set up Camp Three there and spent one night there.<\/p>\n<p>On Saturday, February 22, another team started up: Filip Babicz, Mariusz Hatala and Oswald Rodrigo Pereira.\u00a0After two days of activity, the climbers reached Camp III &#8211; on the same day Mariusz Hatala and Oswald Rodrigo Pereira went higher.\u00a0After a few hours of action, it was possible to reach 6600 meters.\u00a0Then the climbers went down to Camp III, where they spent the night.\u00a0On February 25, the entire team withdrew to Base due to deteriorating weather conditions.<\/p>\n<p>Currently, a hurricane wind is blowing above, which forced the expedition to stop operating.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Winter 2019\/20<\/h2>\n<h3>Everest &#8211; Over, No Summits<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/jostgoforit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Jost Kobusch<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; at EBC<\/li>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/alextxikon.com\/es\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alex Txikon<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; at EBC<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>K2 &#8211; Over, No Summits<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0&#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Broad Peak &#8211;\u00a0Over, No Summits<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Denis Urubko &#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><strong>Batura Sar &#8211; fighting Snow<\/strong><\/h3>\n<h3>Ama Dablam &#8211; Multiple Winter Summits<\/h3>\n<h3>Gasherbrum I\/II &#8211;\u00a0Over, No Summits<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger &#8211; Over<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>And then there were none. Alex Txikon ended his effort as did Jost Kobuschh. Everest in winter is just too difficult this [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":35778,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,552,81],"tags":[432,448,553],"class_list":["post-36088","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2020-coverage","category-everest-news","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2020-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Jost-Kobush-on-Winter-2019-Everest.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36088","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36088"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36088\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/35778"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36088"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36088"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36088"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}