{"id":37005,"date":"2020-05-09T06:16:07","date_gmt":"2020-05-09T12:16:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37005"},"modified":"2020-05-09T17:38:20","modified_gmt":"2020-05-09T23:38:20","slug":"virtual-everest-2020-back-in-base-camp-first-summits","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2020\/05\/09\/virtual-everest-2020-back-in-base-camp-first-summits\/","title":{"rendered":"Virtual Everest 2020: Back in Base Camp – First Summits"},"content":{"rendered":"

The fictional team returned from Camp 3 at 23,600-feet on the Lhotse Face and are now at base camp. The big news was a Japanese team of 20 summited overnight. Now weather watch begins for our climbers.<\/p>\n

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Virtual Everest 2020 – Support the Climbing Sherpas<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/span> is a joint project of <\/span>Alan Arnette<\/a><\/span> and several global guide companies. Our objective is to entertain Everest fans during the Coronavirus spring <\/span>closure<\/strong><\/span> and raise money to help the Climbing Sherpas who are not working this spring. While there will be accurate <\/span>historical<\/strong><\/span> references, this series is a work of <\/span>fiction<\/strong><\/span>. Names, characters, and incidents either are products of the author’s imagination or are used <\/span>fictitiously<\/strong><\/span>. Any resemblance to actual events or locales or persons, living or dead, is entirely coincidental. Please join us by making a donation using the links below plus by adding your Everest experiences in the comment section.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Back in Base Camp<\/h2>\n

\u201cGood news, everyone. The first commercial team summited last night. The storm held off, and they threaded the needle. 20 Japanese members with 22 Climbing Sherpas.\u201d Guide told his team over breakfast. \u201cJapan has very strong climbers.\u201d<\/p>\n

On the Tibet side of Everest, teams had made several rotations to Intermediate, and Advanced Base camps and a few to the North Col. The winds have been wicked this year, stalling the Tibetan rope fixing team from getting to the summit. They hoped to get there in a few days. It was strange how Everest could have such different weather on opposite sides but it happens frequently.<\/p>\n

\"Fixing<\/a><\/figure>\n

Other news was that a speed climber from Ecuador had arrived hoping to set a speed record from base camp to the summit. As in many things around mountaineering, there is no clear answer on who has the record.\u00a0Pemba Dorje Sherpa\u00a0climbed from Base Camp to the summit\u00a0in 8 hours and 10 minutes on May 21, 2004, but never provided proof so his record was discounted by many.<\/p>\n

Lakpa Gelu Sherpa had set the record a year earlier in 10 hours 56 minutes and 46 seconds. He began his bid at 5:00\u00a0p.m. on May 25, 2003, and reached on the summit at 3:56:46\u00a0a.m. on May 26. He returned to Base Camp at 11:20\u00a0a.m. on the 26th making his round trip time\u00a018 hours 20 minutes. The Mount Everest Guides team discussed these amazing efforts over a lunch of chicken, salad, vegetables, and, of course, soup.<\/p>\n

“Yeah, fast is nice but what about age? I might be the oldest when I summit.” Old Man chimed in. “You are not even close,” said Loner. He seemed to have a solid knowledge of Everest’s history. Dutch piped up. “You need to come back in a decade, or two Old Man. Y\u016bichir\u014d Miura<\/a>\u00a0has the age record at 80 years, 224 days!” Old Man laughed deeply. “Guide is right, those Japanese climbers are amazing!”<\/p>\n

First member summits were good news for the Mount Everest Guides members. Now that the rope was to the summit and they had spent a night at Camp 3 completing their acclimatization process, all that was left was to rest while waiting for the weather window to emerge. They would need a forecast of at least five days of low winds, especially when they go to the South Col. The winds needed to be under 30 mph on the summit night push.<\/p>\n

Dutch and Loner were pleased that there were summits while Old Man, Boyfriend, and Bud worried that this might cause Guide to move up their summit push and reduce their time to recover. All three had struggled on the last rotation and valued every day in base camp.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

She felt strong thus was ambivalent as to when they would go back up. She had grown to trust Guide\u2019s judgment, and any extra time would be put to good use getting to know Minga better. She was content after having a long video call with her family yesterday after they got back from Camps 3 and 2.<\/p>\n

\u201cI was worried,\u201d her husband began the call. \u201cLast time we spoke, you seemed so down, like you had lost your motivation, or courage, or something. I felt helpless back here with the kids. I didn\u2019t know how to help.\u201d He said, tearing up. \u201cYou did everything perfectly by just listening and, for once, not trying to solve my problems!\u201d They both laughed, knowing what she just said was true.<\/p>\n

\u201cI am proud of myself with how I performed to C3, honey. I was the first of our team there. The storm kind of scared me but not as much as going back through the Icefall. A huge towering serac came crashing down just behind Mingma and me. It was too close. Now I know why people climb Everest from the Tibet side. I\u2019m so happy we only have to up and down one more time.\u201d Her hands began to slightly shake remembering the moment.<\/p>\n

\u201cHow\u2019s mom? Does she remember that I\u2019m climbing Everest? Does she, does she, remember me?\u201d<\/p>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

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Climbing Sherpa Support<\/span><\/h2>\n

Who, how much, and how often you donate is a personal decision. Maybe you climbed with one of the guides, or plan to one day. Perhaps you have followed them for years and want to support their Climbing Sherpa team, or maybe you support by geography – Nepali, American, Austrian, British, New Zealand. It’s up to you and will be much appreciated.<\/span><\/p>\n

My sincere appreciation to those companies who accepted my invitation to join <\/span>Virtual Everest 2020 – Support the Climbing Sherpas<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/span>:<\/span><\/p>\n