
{"id":37656,"date":"2020-12-26T11:54:05","date_gmt":"2020-12-26T18:54:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37656"},"modified":"2022-05-07T12:53:50","modified_gmt":"2022-05-07T18:53:50","slug":"winter-k2-update-Nimral-to-attempt-high-camp","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2020\/12\/26\/winter-k2-update-Nimral-to-attempt-high-camp\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: Nirmal Purja to Attempt High Camp"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Nirmal Purja and his Sherpa team arrived at Base Camp and almost immediately announced they would fix the ropes on the Black Pyramid, leveraging the work of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/posts\/830471424422547\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and his son Sajid Ali who fixed to C1 and\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0with two Sherpa teammates who fixed the ropes to the traditional Camp 2 above House&#8217;s Chimney.<\/p>\n<h3>Big Christmas Winds<\/h3>\n<p>Mingma G reported a tough night, Christmas, at Base Camp:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Last night, We had terrible night. We woke up whole the night watching at the tents. Wind didn\u2019t stop whole night and still continus&#8230;.Having good rest here. Lol<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h3>Nim&#8217;s Plan<\/h3>\n<p>Nirmal Purja revealed some of his plans, but no details on who is with him. It&#8217;s assumed to be his team from the 8000er project and, apparently, also no clients. He made this update:<\/p>\n<div class=\"kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Admin day at the Basecamp today. It\u2019s pretty hard core to set up personal tents, Comms tents and of course the dinning tents making our base camp as homely as possible in a very short time. I must admit it\u2019s pretty cold as we are also having a slightly bad weather today at the base camp with the wind speed upto 45km\/hr.\u00a0We also have one million camera equipment to charge tonight before we head out early morning tomorrow Plan of attack &#8211; Tomorrow morning me and my team will head up to the higher camps. Depending on the situation, we are hoping to get upto Camp 4 and fix lines in the next couple of days. Game is on folks<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"o9v6fnle cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">\n<div dir=\"auto\">I would not be surprised to see Nirmal Purja summit before Wednesday, weather allowing as I&#8217;ll describe in a moment. Also, he is said to be climbing without supplemental oxygen and planning to paraglide off the summit. Both of these are unconfirmed. Recall that Nirmal Purja and team were the first to summit last July, 2020.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h3>Weather Window<\/h3>\n<p>The forecast according to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountain-forecast.com\/peaks\/K2\/forecasts\/7000\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">MountainForecast.com<\/a> calls for mind-numbing cold temps and horrific wind chills approaching -100F. \u00a0That said, this is usually worse-case with extreme gusts and there appears to be a window starting Sunday, December 27 through Wednesday, December 30 so I expect everyone already at Base Camp to take advantage of this unusual pattern<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-37660\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"888\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-300x104.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-640x222.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-1536x533.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-2048x711.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-1000x347.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-230x80.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-350x121.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-12262020-480x167.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Also from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.windy.com\/35.882\/76.514?gust,35.866,76.514,13,m:eEXaiiG\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Windy.com<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.windy.com\/35.882\/76.514?gust,35.866,76.514,13,m:eEXaiiG\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-37661\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"341\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-300x40.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-640x85.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-1536x205.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-2048x273.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-1000x133.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-230x31.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-350x47.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/K2-Weather-122620-480x64.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h3>Other Teams<\/h3>\n<p class=\"blog-title\">Tamara Lunger and Alex G\u0103van issued a <a href=\"http:\/\/alexgavan.ro\/blog\/tamara-lunger-and-alex-g\u0103van-attempt-ascent-k2-\u2013-8611m-last-unclimbed-eight-thousand-meter-peak\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">press release<\/a> on their plans with this money quote:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>\u201cTamara and myself are not here for the race of whom will be the first to the top of K2 in winter. Still more, we are not interested in this race and we do not belong to any kind of summit rush and fever. We are not in any kind of competion with other teams on the mountain but bringing our energy and equipment instead for collaboration to work up the route in the spirit of abundance, generosity and altruism. It is my deep belief that mountains are to be climbed not only with ice tools and crampons, which we all can have, but above everything else, with humbleness. For myself, climbing mountains outside is climbing mountains inside. To me, K2 is a great teacher and a\u00a0great master which I revere, not some gigantic pile of rock to just be desecrated by a Victorian mindset of conquest. Going without supplemental oxygen is not only a choice we deem ethical but the only by fair means approach we can envision and have over this most extraordinary being, the mighty K2. For us being on his steep and icy slopes is foremost a spiritual matter, and only secondary a climbing feat. Ascension is always from within\u201d. &#8211; Alex Gavan<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/story.php?story_fbid=2918045701815240&amp;id=1538696643083493\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Treks<\/a>\u00a0is at the Urdukas 4135m camp on the trek in. They should arrive at K2 Base Camp in a couple of days.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Nirmal Purja and his Sherpa team arrived at Base Camp and almost immediately announced they would fix the ropes on the Black Praymid. Could we see the first winter summit of K2 this week?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":28270,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Nirmal Purja and team arrived at Base Camp and immediately announced they would fix the ropes on the Black Pyramid. Could we see the first winter summit of K2 this week?","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598,487,602],"class_list":["post-37656","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter","tag-mingma-gyalje-sherpa","tag-Nimral-purja"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Winter K2 Update: Nirmal Purja to Attempt High Camp - The Blog on alanarnette.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"alanarnette.com is a site covering big mountain climbing including Everest, K2, and the 7 summits. 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