{"id":37805,"date":"2021-01-08T09:10:41","date_gmt":"2021-01-08T16:10:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37805"},"modified":"2021-01-08T10:13:01","modified_gmt":"2021-01-08T17:13:01","slug":"winter-k2-update-quiet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/08\/winter-k2-update-quiet\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: Quiet"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Minga G tells me the ropes are up to 7300-meters, a bit higher than the previous estimate. However, with the big winds and everyone at Base Camp, it feels a bit academic at the moment.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Big Picture<\/h3>\n<p>All quiet from K2 BC with a difficult weather forecast. This is the money quote for the next week or so:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>(Days 10-12):\u00a0<span class=\"phrase\" data-initial=\" Mostly dry. Extremely cold (max -26\u00b0C on Sun afternoon, min -36\u00b0C on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (light winds from the WSW on Sun afternoon, stormy winds from the WSW by Mon afternoon). \" data-backup-temperature-metric-length-metric-speed-metric=\" Mostly dry. Extremely cold (max -26\u00b0C on Sun afternoon, min -36\u00b0C on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (light winds from the WSW on Sun afternoon, stormy winds from the WSW by Mon afternoon). \">Mostly dry. <strong>Extremely cold<\/strong> (max -15\u00b0F on Sun afternoon, min -33\u00b0F on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (light winds from the WSW on Sun afternoon, <strong>stormy winds<\/strong> from the WSW by Mon afternoon).<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37809\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37809\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountain-forecast.com\/peaks\/K2\/forecasts\/7000\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-37809\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-640x319.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"399\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-640x319.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-1536x766.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-2048x1022.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-1000x499.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-230x115.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-350x175.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-08-at-Friday-Jan-800.23-AM-1-480x239.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37809\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Courtesy of Mountain Forecast<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>: 3 people, all Sherpas<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Nirmal PurjaPurja\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nirmal Purja<\/a> : Nirmal Purja plus six Nepalis\/Sherpas in support, One client looking to experience BC and perhaps C1<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and son: a three-person independent team<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> (SST) 49 person commercial team with over 22 clients with various experience on 8000-meter winter climbs and 27 Sherpas in support.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Mingma G &#8211; At BC<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a> is resting at BC. He and his small Sherpa-only team said they reached 7300-meters, roughly at the top of the Black Pyramid. But traditional C3 is around 7,200-meter and the SST Sherpas said they reached 7050-meters, so, for me, it&#8217;s unclear on the precise altitude, other than above the rocks of the Pyramid.<\/p>\n<h3>Snorri &#8211; At BC<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and his son Sajid Ali are at base camp. Their high has been Camp 2. He said this today:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>The winter is hovering over K2. It looks like it&#8217;s going to be there until the 20th of January. The wind goes up to 250 km per hour in the higher camps. Meanwhile we are gathering energy, keeping our mindset focused and spirit positive for next ascent<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><img class=\"aligncenter\" \/><\/p>\n<h3>Seven Summits Treks: All at BC<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> commercial team has regrouped at K2 Base Camp. They suggest a summit bid after January 14, 2021. The leader of the SST team, Dawa posted this video from BC:<\/p>\n<div id=\"kgvid_kgvid_0_wrapper\" class=\"kgvid_wrapper kgvid_wrapper_auto_left kgvid_wrapper_auto_right\">\n\t\t\t<div id=\"video_kgvid_0_div\" class=\"fitvidsignore kgvid_videodiv\" data-id=\"kgvid_0\" data-kgvid_video_vars=\"{&quot;id&quot;:&quot;kgvid_0&quot;,&quot;attachment_id&quot;:37806,&quot;player_type&quot;:&quot;Video.js v8&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;640&quot;,&quot;height&quot;:&quot;640&quot;,&quot;fullwidth&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;fixed_aspect&quot;:&quot;vertical&quot;,&quot;countable&quot;:true,&quot;count_views&quot;:&quot;start_complete&quot;,&quot;start&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;autoplay&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;pauseothervideos&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;set_volume&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;muted&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;meta&quot;:true,&quot;endofvideooverlay&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.alanarnette.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/12\\\/summitcoach-e1483568572550.jpg&quot;,&quot;resize&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;auto_res&quot;:&quot;automatic&quot;,&quot;pixel_ratio&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;right_click&quot;:false,&quot;playback_rate&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;K2 Winter 2020\\\/21 Base Camp&quot;,&quot;skip_buttons&quot;:[],&quot;nativecontrolsfortouch&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;locale&quot;:&quot;en&quot;,&quot;enable_resolutions_plugin&quot;:false}\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Everest-2021Weekend-Update-April-4_thumb1.jpg\"><meta itemprop=\"embedUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/x1f9beStrong-wind-in-K2-Basecamp-there-is-no-way-we-can-climb.-Sprits-are..mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"contentUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/x1f9beStrong-wind-in-K2-Basecamp-there-is-no-way-we-can-climb.-Sprits-are..mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"name\" content=\"K2 Winter 2020\/21 Base Camp\"><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"K2 Winter 2020\/21 Base Camp. Courtesy fo Dawa Sherpa, SST\"><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2021-01-08T08:58:48-07:00\">\n\t\t\t\t<video id=\"video_kgvid_0\" playsinline controls preload=\"metadata\" poster=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Everest-2021Weekend-Update-April-4_thumb1.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"640\" class=\"fitvidsignore video-js kg-video-js-skin\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/x1f9beStrong-wind-in-K2-Basecamp-there-is-no-way-we-can-climb.-Sprits-are..mp4?id=0\" type=\"video\/mp4\" data-res=\"720p\">\n\t\t\t\t<\/video>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"kgvid_below_video\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_below\"><div class=\"kgvid-viewcount\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_viewcount\">1,671 views<\/div><div class=\"kgvid-caption\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_caption\">K2 Winter 2020\/21 Base Camp. Courtesy fo Dawa Sherpa, SST<\/div><\/div>\t\t\t<div style=\"display:none\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_meta\" class=\"kgvid_video_meta kgvid_video_meta_hover \">\n\t\t\t\t<span class='kgvid_meta_icons'><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<span id='video_kgvid_0_title' class='kgvid_title'>K2 Winter 2020\/21 Base Camp<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alexgavan\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alex Gavin<\/a>&#8216;s home team seemed to put \u00a0a stake in the ground that they will stay &#8220;all winter&#8221;:<\/p>\n<div class=\"kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">The expedition is expected to last until the end of winter, the two climbers announced. Their planned route will be via the Abruzzi Spur, the original line of the 1954 successful first ascent of the mountain. During their acclimatization period, between the 5000-meter high Base Camp and the summit, the two plan to set up four high camps at the altitudes of 6000m, 6760m, 7350m, and with the last one at almost 8000m. This expedition also marks the first attempt of a Romanian on an 8000+ meter winter climb.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Traditionally, these have been the elevations of each camp:<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Base Camp: <\/strong>17,500ft\/5334m<\/li>\n<li><strong>Advanced Base Camp: <\/strong>18,650ft\/5650m<\/li>\n<li><strong>Camp 1:<\/strong> 19,965&#8217;\/6050m<\/li>\n<li><strong>Camp 2:<\/strong> 22,110&#8217;\/6700m<\/li>\n<li><strong>Camp 3:<\/strong> 23,760&#8217;\/7200m<\/li>\n<li><strong>Camp 4:<\/strong> 25,080&#8217;\/7600m<\/li>\n<li><strong>Summit:<\/strong> 28,251&#8221;\/8611m<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Winter Definition (again)<\/h3>\n<p>I wrote a long post about this but the bottom line is that absent of a ruling body, the definition is left to the climbers. Most countries who issue climbing permits use meteorological, Dec, Jan, and Feb but a lot of climbers like to use astronomical which aligns with the solstices \u2013 December 21 and March 20 in the northern hemisphere.<\/p>\n<p>For me? I don\u2019t think of March as winter but also think winter begins with the winter solstice. December, so I guess I\u2019m in the middle.<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"wp-embedded-content\" data-secret=\"IE17rgX5g4\"><p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2018\/03\/01\/the-definition-of-winter-for-k2-and-everest-climbs\/\">The Definition of Winter for K2 and Everest Climbs<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; visibility: hidden;\" title=\"&#8220;The Definition of Winter for K2 and Everest Climbs&#8221; &#8212; The Blog on alanarnette.com\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2018\/03\/01\/the-definition-of-winter-for-k2-and-everest-climbs\/embed\/#?secret=tYjKrK6Nmu#?secret=IE17rgX5g4\" data-secret=\"IE17rgX5g4\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<div>\n<h3>Broad Peak &#8211; En Route<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/zoltan.szlanko\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3<\/a> and A<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alex.goldfarb.3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lex Goldfarb<\/a> are trekking the Baltoro Glacier and should be at Base Camp within the next few days.<\/p>\n<h3>Manaslu &#8211; En Route, Heavy Snow<\/h3>\n<p>Over 3 feet of new snow is being reported around Manaslu Base Camp. This is what has stopped many previous winter attempts. We&#8217;ll see what happens this year.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iamsimonemoro\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Simone Moro<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iamsimonemoro\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alex Txikon<\/a>, and I\u00f1aki Alvarez have left Kathmandu for their winter attempt of Manaslu. They anticipate arriving at Base Camp around January 11, 2021. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/climber_tenji\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tenji Sherpa<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/climber_tenji\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vinayak Jaya Malla<\/a>, both Nepali internationally certified mountain guides (IFMGA) are also on Manaslu. Currently, they are back in Samagaun resting after doing acclimatization hikes in the area.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p><strong>Resources<\/strong>:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/reader-polls\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Share your opinion on the reader polls<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/aN5gtrkwgb4\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A 30-minute documentary of Alan&#8217;s 2014 K2 Summit.<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Minga G tells me the ropes to 7300-meters, a bit higher than the previous estimate. However, with the big winds and everyone at Base Camp, it feels a bit academic at the moment.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":31105,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Minga G tells me the ropes to 7300-meters, a bit higher than the previous estimate. However, with the big winds and everyone at Base Camp, it feels a bit academic at the moment.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598,487,602],"class_list":["post-37805","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter","tag-mingma-gyalje-sherpa","tag-Nimral-purja"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/36294311_1610362439089732_2302554365640048640_n.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37805","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37805"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37805\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31105"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37805"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37805"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37805"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}