{"id":37815,"date":"2021-01-09T12:09:10","date_gmt":"2021-01-09T19:09:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37815"},"modified":"2021-01-09T13:23:10","modified_gmt":"2021-01-09T20:23:10","slug":"winter-k2-update-changes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/09\/winter-k2-update-changes\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: Changes"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Well, with over 60 people inside tents, inside tents, (double tents) there is not a lot of news from K2 as the winds howl at 35mph creating a wind chill of -40 only half-way up the Hill. There is no climbing today. Social media has a lot of &#8220;hero&#8221; and sponsor shots to pass the time. But as David Bowie would say &#8220;Changes&#8221; are in the future.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Big Picture<\/h3>\n<p>The good news is there appears to be a window starting tomorrow, Sunday, January 9, 2021, with winds under 20 mph that may allow some climbers to complete their acclimatization rotations and the rope fixers (similar to an Everest expedition) to fix to Camp 4 or the High Camp thus enabling a summit bid when the next calm period emerges.&nbsp;I&#8217;m 100% positive almost all the teams will grasp this window. They must hope the forecast is accurate.<\/p>\n<p>Who knows, the ambitious may try to summit next week but that&#8217;s a long, long shot.<\/p>\n<p>The new team that was expected this week has canceled. These are the groups currently there:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>: 3 people, all Sherpas<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and son: a three-person independent team<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> (SST) 49 person commercial team with 22 clients and 27 Sherpas in support.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Nirmal PurjaPurja\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nirmal Purja<\/a> : Nirmal Purja plus six Nepalis\/Sherpas in support, one client looking to experience lower K2<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Mingma G &#8211; At BC<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a> is resting at BC. May go up with Nirmal Purja and company.<\/p>\n<h3>Snorri &#8211; At BC<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and his son Sajid Ali are at base camp. May go up to Camp 3 next week.<\/p>\n<h3>Nim&#8217;s &#8211; At BC &#8211; Headed Up<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Nirmal PurjaPurja\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nirmal Purja<\/a> and Co&#8217;s are also at BC &nbsp;but planning to head back up to C1 and C2 on Sunday, January 10, 2021. &nbsp;His high has been 7300-meters. He posted:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Tomorrow me and my team are set to leave for Camp 2 in order to check our tent and equipments that we had left there for our summit cycle. &nbsp;Some damage and disruption is expected, as we had unsettling weather conditions for the last few days. There had been hurricane force wind of upto 120km\/hr.<\/p>\n<p>Members from other teams have also used our tent due to a limited space. It was last reported 10 days ago that our tent was not fully secured and we have been at the basecamp since then. Therefore, prior to making further progress, we need to get there, assess the situation and ensure everything is set for the prominent push later.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>Nirmal Purja teams consist of Mingma David, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pemchhiri Sherpa, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, and Sandro Gromen-Hayes.<img class=\"aligncenter\"\/><\/p>\n<h3>Seven Summits Treks: All at BC<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> commercial team at K2 Base Camp. Expect a rush by over 20 climbers in the next several days to overnight at Camp 2, at a minimum for their final acclimatization rotation. Expect some issues with tent space, especially at C1. They will need to coordinate with the other teams otherwise there will be 50 to 60 people trying to squeeze into spots that can accommodate only 10 to 15. But the leaders know this and should be able to manage with good communications.<\/p>\n<div class=\"kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">\n<h3 dir=\"auto\">Broad Peak &#8211; At Base Camp with Huge Winds<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/zoltan.szlanko\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3<\/a> and A<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alex.goldfarb.3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lex Goldfarb<\/a> are now at base camp according to their Pakistani logistics company, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/AAPORIK\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jasmine Tours Pakistan.<\/a><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>USA Hungarian Broad Peak Winter Expedition&nbsp;Alex Goldfarb&nbsp;and&nbsp;Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3&nbsp;finally reached base camp this expedition is organize in Pakistan by&nbsp;Asghar Ali Porik&nbsp;Jasmine Tours Pakistan.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>More details with attribution:<\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<div class=\"bi6gxh9e\"><span class=\"d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa fgxwclzu gfeo3gy3 a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id\">Alex Goldfarb and Zoltan Szlanko today have arrived at Broad Peak Base Camp. Although a short day&#8217;s trip, it was really hard because of the punishing windstorm. They had to fight to be able to pitch the tents. No idea about temperature, Zoltan only sad it was &#8220;freaking cold&#8221;.<\/span><\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n<div class=\"bi6gxh9e\"><span class=\"d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa fgxwclzu gfeo3gy3 a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id\">There is no chance to build an igloo, even if they wanted to, like Alex Txikon did a couple years back on K2. There is hardly any snow, everything is black, they built the tents on the rocks of the moraine. Food is good, which is always important.<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"bi6gxh9e\"><span class=\"d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa fgxwclzu gfeo3gy3 a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id\">(Official expedition communication by Laszlo Pinter, <\/span><span class=\"d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa fgxwclzu gfeo3gy3 a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id\"><a class=\"oajrlxb2 g5ia77u1 qu0x051f esr5mh6w e9989ue4 r7d6kgcz rq0escxv nhd2j8a9 nc684nl6 p7hjln8o kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x jb3vyjys rz4wbd8a qt6c0cv9 a8nywdso i1ao9s8h esuyzwwr f1sip0of lzcic4wl oo9gr5id gpro0wi8 lrazzd5p\" tabindex=\"0\" role=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Mozgasvilag\/?__cft__%5B0%5D=AZUeMFkEU3x_fvxM0dTO42I5rtoPNi_-o7reg6vactUaeI6xkfUQ_Tyll-KS_Tjz74uksrNzmI1QB221Oen1fPxhayX5d35wIpf6UFZ9o6TEYLW4me4q8tizz6WvYehMXj00JOGkERtUEi2imNS3H5Rl&#038;__tn__=-UK-R\">Mozg\u00e1svil\u00e1g<\/a><\/span><span class=\"d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql oi732d6d ik7dh3pa fgxwclzu gfeo3gy3 a3bd9o3v knj5qynh oo9gr5id\">. Free for editorial purposes, with proper link and credit to this post.)<\/span><\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<h3>Manaslu &#8211; En Route, Heavy Snow<\/h3>\n<p>Over 3 feet of new snow is being reported around Manaslu Base Camp. This is what has stopped many previous winter attempts. We&#8217;ll see what happens this year.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iamsimonemoro\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Simone Moro<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iamsimonemoro\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alex Txikon<\/a>, and I\u00f1aki Alvarez have left Kathmandu for their winter attempt of Manasluare close to Samagon, the last village before Manaslu Base Camp<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Today we have walked the 19km and around 1,000m of elevation gain that separate Philim from Bihi, where we are going to spend the night. Another beautiful trekking day, the landscape is spectacular. We have passed areas with wild monkeys &#8230; very close at all times to the Budah Gandaki river. We have barely seen the sun. The canyon is really narrow. Now we are going to enjoy the sunset and rest a little bit to continue tomorrow on our way to Manaslu base camp.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/climber_tenji\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tenji Sherpa<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/climber_tenji\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vinayak Jaya Malla<\/a>, both Nepali internationally certified mountain guides (IFMGA) are also on Manaslu. Currently, they are at Base Camp where they will share kitchen staff with Moro\/Txikon but have separate eating tents, for reasons unknown.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p><strong>Resources<\/strong>:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/reader-polls\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Share your opinion on the reader polls<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/aN5gtrkwgb4\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A 30-minute documentary of Alan&#8217;s 2014 K2 Summit.<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With a break in the winds starting Sunday, 1\/9\/21, look for many climbers to head up K2 to finish their acclimatization. Over 50 people next week so coordination will be critical.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":31105,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"With a break in the winds starting Sunday, 1\/9\/21, look for many climbers to head up K2 to finish their acclimatization. Over 50 people next week so coordination will be critical.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598,487,602],"class_list":["post-37815","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter","tag-mingma-gyalje-sherpa","tag-Nimral-purja"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/36294311_1610362439089732_2302554365640048640_n.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37815","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37815"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37815\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31105"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37815"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37815"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37815"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}