{"id":37853,"date":"2021-01-11T13:30:03","date_gmt":"2021-01-11T20:30:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37853"},"modified":"2021-01-11T13:30:03","modified_gmt":"2021-01-11T20:30:03","slug":"winter-k2-update-determination","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/11\/winter-k2-update-determination\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: Determination"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The winter K2 teams are regrouping after high winds destroyed Camp 2 just above and below House Chimney. For some, the question of when winter ends comes into play, the end of February or on the equinox on March 20, 2021.<\/p>\n<p>Regardless, the weather continues to play games with all the climbers. A few days of low winds followed by patches of hurricane breezes trapping anyone wherever they might be.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Big Picture<\/h3>\n<p>These are the teams on K2 this winter:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>: 3 people, all Sherpas<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and son: a three-person independent team<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> (SST) 49 person commercial team with 22 clients and 27 Sherpas in support.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Nirmal PurjaPurja\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nirmal Purja<\/a> : Nirmal Purja plus six Nepalis\/Sherpas in support, one client looking to experience lower K2<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Teams are coming together that might make them stronger rather than fierce competitors. With all four teams losing some gear, the time has come to share extras, join forces and see if a winter summit can be accomplished, preferably without Os, and before the end of February.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Nim&#8217;s &#8211; Delayed<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Nirmal PurjaPurja\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nirmal Purja<\/a>\u00a0is off his heels after his initial reaction was one of devastation at losing a lot of gear cached at lower Camp 2, just under the Chimney. Now he seems willing to wait a bit:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Waking up to all the positive messages from you all this morning. Thank you all !\u00a0Setbacks are inevitable in life specially when you are pushing your limits and it should only make you become stronger.<\/p>\n<p>As you may know (or may not), I always have a back up plan for a back up plan. I am just a bit gutted about missing another summit window. However, the plan is still ON and summit plan will be pushed a bit late in the season.<\/p>\n<p>Today I will be regrouping with my team. We will need to do another heavy load carry to the higher camps just like last time but maybe a bit heavier. It will have to a bigger push this time. The plan is to complete fixing lines upto Camp 4, weather permitting.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Mingma\u00a0<em>\u2018David\u2019\u00a0<\/em>Sherpa of Nim&#8217;s team told Dream Wunderlust that \u00a0&#8220;We are considering the meteorological winter till 28<sup>th<\/sup>\u00a0February.&#8221; when asked when they consider the end of winter, meteorological winter till 28<sup>th\u00a0<\/sup>February or astronomical winter till 20<sup>th<\/sup>\u00a0March<\/p>\n<h3>Mingma G &#8211; Waiting<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0seems patient to wait it out:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>We are waiting in Base camp for good weather to come. Weather forecast keeps on changing so we will stay here in base camp for more days.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>He is not 100% certain of his gear at traditional Camp 2, above House Chimney but said they stashed it all behind a rock wall (which is where we had our tent in 2014) and felt it was as sheltered as best it could be. He will know definitely when he or some else goes there.<\/p>\n<h3>Snorri &#8211; Hopeful<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and his son Sajid Ali remains optimistic but cautious:<\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">In camp 2, we took all our things out of the tents and deposit it at a rock there, except the tent. We roped it down but it&#8217;s likely in bad condition. I believe otherwise we have bigger problems as well some of oxygen has flew down to ABC. I don&#8217;t know better at this moment. Planing to use coming window to go from BC to C2.\u00a0Then finish fix to C3 and sleep. We see what happens from there. It all depends on the wind for us.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">John&#8217;s point of the oxygen bottles is critical. While the massive SST team probably have spares, sharing oxygen seems improbable and could be the final straw.<img class=\"aligncenter\" \/><\/div>\n<h3>Seven Summits Treks &#8211; Business as Usual, But Wary<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> commercial team of 22 clients and 27 Sherpas in support is the wild card and as expected the team will move forward. Dawa posted:<\/p>\n<div class=\"o9v6fnle cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Team formed for C4 set up on 15th. Due to the continues high wind from last days, some tents(5), oxygen bottles, fixed lines and left equipment in high camp has been damaged and swept away. Tomorrow Sherpas will make another load ferry to C1 and C2 to rearrange the camp and fixed lines, 2 Sherpas: Pasang Nurbu and Sona (along with the team of Nirmal Purja) will push higher following the schedule of 12th Jan &#8211; C2, 13th Jan &#8211; C3, 14th Jan- Rest and preparation in C3 and 15th Jan &#8211; C4 set up, if weather and the mountain permits. I will join my team till C2,helping them to rebuild up the route and camps. Some members from our team will make another acclimatization rotation, and look forward for next summit weather window.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">As I noted in yesterday&#8217;s post,\u00a0Seven Summits Treks co-leader <span class=\"\">Sergi Mingote <\/span>said<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">The C1 and C2 tents , including my tent, seem to have flown in the strong winds, along with some more material that JP and I left in C1.\u00a0<span class=\"\">In the C2 we anchored one of my backpacks, filled with sleeping bags, the stove, some gas and food, and some other material. <\/span>We believe that this deposit will not have &#8220;blown up&#8221;, because if it is, things look bad. Very bad.\u00a0So now, at 5:00 p.m., when night has already taken over Base Camp, all are doubts.\u00a0Tonight we will make the final decision. This is winter K2.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<div class=\"o9v6fnle cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x c1et5uql ii04i59q\">\n<div dir=\"auto\">Professional climber, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alexgavan\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alex Gavin<\/a> wrote as part of a long introspective post on Facebook that:<\/div>\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">For over a week we haven&#8217;t been able to see the peak of K2 due to unstable weather. But this is something normal in the high mountains and even more in winter and in this place, especially. In order not to be flown by the wind, we collected our tent in Camp 1 before descent and anchored it well to the rocks. We have also properly anchored our base camp tents as well as the ten blue plastic barrels containing mine and Tamara&#8217;s equipment, as well as all that we need to cope with our stay here well through winter or as long as it will be. Although I have been and always will be a minimalist, all of which weigh no less than 320 lbs. And I think I didn&#8217;t take anything extra, nothing worthless. Yesterday at base camp the wind was up to 80 kilometers per hour<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">And another positive statement of intent from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/14x8000\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Atanas Skatov<\/a>&#8216;s home team:<\/div>\n<div dir=\"auto\">\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Early this morning, Nasko started on a second rotation, to implement better acclimatization. During the first, we refrained to mention that there was diarrhea accompanied by fever and vomiting. After consultation with a doctor, he had to take an antibiotic for 5 days. Luckily he is already feeling better and in view of having a good weather forecast for the coming days, Nasko headed to the height camps. Yesterday we found out that due to the strong wind of the previous days, part of the camp 1 tents and the previous Japanese camp were out and others broke. We hope that both Nasko&#8217;s luggage and this deposited by other participants is unharmed and is on site. A difficult expedition in which you need not only knowledge and practical experience, but also a great dose of luck and good weather!\u00a0Skatov Team<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h3>Standing By<\/h3>\n<p>We will know more over the next few days, the total extent of the damage There are almost seven weeks to the end of January and almost another month to March 21, so there is lots of time if the willpower remains strong. Spending another month, or longer in these conditions will take a toll.<\/p>\n<div>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p><strong>Resources<\/strong>:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/reader-polls\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Share your opinion on the reader polls<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/aN5gtrkwgb4\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A 30-minute documentary of Alan&#8217;s 2014 K2 Summit.<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The winter K2 teams are regrouping after high winds destroyed Camp 2 just above and below House Chimney. For some, the question of when winter ends comes into play, the end of February or on the equinox on March 20, 2021. Regardless, the weather continues to play games with all the climbers. A few days of low winds followed by patches of hurricane breezes trapping anyone wherever they might be.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":28642,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"The winter K2 teams are regrouping after high winds destroyed Camp 2. Spirits appear high and a new sense of shared purpose emerges.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598,487,602],"class_list":["post-37853","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter","tag-mingma-gyalje-sherpa","tag-Nimral-purja"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/K2-from-Concordia-2014-by-Alan-Arnette.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37853","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37853"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37853\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28642"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37853"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37853"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37853"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}