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Nim’s<\/h3>\n
Nirmal Purja’s<\/a>\u00a0personal location is unknown. Some reports had him headed to establish C3 and the ropes to C4. \u00a0It appears his loss of gear at C2 was not the body blow first believed.<\/p>\n One step closer to the verge of conquering K2 in this winter. Second rotation done! Checking gears on camp 2!\u00a0We team @eliteexped<\/a> & @Nimraldai<\/a>believe we will write a history in mountaineering by conquering k2 on winter.\u00a0Let’s challenge this winter cold and speedy wind.\u00a0We are ready! Let’s the weather give us green signal to go<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>\u00a0seems patient to wait it out but also eager to find out the status of his gear at C2. He says his foot injuries have completely healed.\u00a0Previously, he has been aggressive with his climbing as he and his team fixed the rope to the high point of 7300-meters. He and Nirmal Purja seem to have formed a tight bond. Mingma tells me directly on Tuesday, January 12 2021 around noon K2 time:<\/p>\n Hi Alan I can see my tent at Black Pyramid so I hope everything is there inside the tent just below the Black Pyramid.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n But contrary to my thoughts of a Saturday summit, MIngma G tells me directly:<\/p>\n We have our plan together to go summit when the camp4 is ready. So the plan is they will fix camp4 first.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n He gave this general update on his Facebook page:<\/p>\n Weather is good but little bit windy up there.\u00a0Muhammad Ali and team fixed lines till camp1, we fixed lines from camp1 to Camp3 and in this window @Nimraldai and 7 summit team will fix line to camp4. They will also help us check our gears at 7000m. Everything is ok here.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and his son Sajid Ali remain at Base Camp according to their tracker, but he may have chosen to leave it there. He praises his Pakistani teammates by passing on this message from them to me:<\/p>\n We are very happy for the opportunity as a Pakistani to be here at K2 and have chance to hold the Pakistani flag first in Winter. Because K2 is one of the precious gift by Allah Almighty to us. So as a Pakistani we will try our best to summit our K2<\/p><\/blockquote>\n They have been there since mid-December so they must be anxious to make some real progress.<\/p>\n Seven Summits Trek’s<\/a> commercial team of 22 clients and 27 Sherpas in support is the wild card.\u00a0Chhang Dawa Sherpa<\/span>, director of Seven Summit Treks has been in base camp coordinating the logistics but now he has decided to leave BC and join the climb. Remember that he helped Nirmal Purja with his 8000er project by providing all the logistics, so their bond is tight.<\/span><\/p>\n Other members of the SST team have left BC for C1 and C2 on acclimatization rotations as they have not been high enough for a summit bid, except for the professional climbers. However many of them are not using supplemental oxygen, so it would be very risky to attempt the summit at this point.<\/p>\n Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto<\/a> made this post:<\/p>\n A week in the windy and cold base camp, waiting for a window to go back up to the high fields.The day after tomorrow we will take advantage of going up to do the second acclimatization rotation and review our material.<\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n I saw SST in 2014 take 30 people to the summit on July 26, so they know how to do it. But this is winter. I assume they didn’t lose a substantial amount of gear at C2, even though Sergi Mingote\u00a0<\/span><\/b>said he did.<\/p>\n The key will be if the strong SST Sherpas can establish C4, then set the line through the Bottleneck and Traverse, the members might be able to follow.<\/p>\n Desinvel<\/a> reported that four SST clients tried to go to Camp 1 but retreated back to Base Camp: Colin O’Brady and Jon Kedrowski<\/span>\u00a0or\u00a0<\/span>Magdalena Gorzkowska and Oswald Rodrigo Pereira<\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n But\u00a0Magdalena Gorzkowska<\/a>, suggests that it’s too dangerous to go up now and might have never left Base Camp:<\/p>\n This week, 3 days are perfect for mountain action. Unfortunately, not 3 days in succession, so one would have to survive, somewhere above. Each climb up also means putting yourself in danger. Falling stones, ropes not in good condition. Going up only makes sense if he wants to fight for not extra oxigen entry and sleep above 7000. This option will cost me a lot of energy. Option two is to wait and maintain acclimatization. So far I’m not convinced of anything. Analyzes all the scenarios, pros and cons. I must be 100% convinced of my every decision, so I give myself more time …<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Evuacation and Health Issues<\/strong><\/p>\n And the\u00a0Spanish alpinist\u00a0Luis Carlos Garranzo has been helicoptered from K2 Base Camp suffering from dehydration after he didn’t recover from GI issues. He was quite experienced with expeditions\u00a0Everest, Gasherbrudum Peak, K2, and Lhotse. He is the third evacuee this season along with Polish\u00a0<\/span>Waldemar Kowalewski,\u00a0<\/span>suffering from a pre-existing hernia, and\u00a0<\/span>an unidentified Sherpa. There have been health issues with other climbers including Bulgarian\u00a0Atanas Skatov from Bulgaria who had GI problems but recovered after a 5-day antibiotic course.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3<\/a> and Alex Goldfarb<\/a> are now at base camp according to their Pakistani logistics company, Jasmine Tours Pakistan.<\/a>\u00a0They did an acclimatization rotation to 6209 meters per Laszlo Pinter.<\/a>\u00a0This was the last update:<\/p>\n Simone Moro<\/a>, Alex Txikon<\/a>, and I\u00f1aki Alvarez arrived at Samagon, the last village before Manaslu Base Camp.\u00a0Tenji Sherpa<\/a> and Vinayak Jaya Malla<\/a>, both Nepali internationally certified mountain guides (IFMGA) are at Manaslu Base Camp ready to move higher.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n Climb On! Resources<\/strong>:<\/p>\n Teams are taking advantage of a two-day weather window mid-week to work on acclimatization. Big winds are forecasted to return soon. There is hope to establish camp 3 and get the ropes to Camp 4. Another climber leaves the SST team.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":28642,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Teams are taking advantage of a two-day weather window mid-week to work on acclimatization. Big winds are forecasted to return soon. Another climber leaves the SST team.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598,487,602],"class_list":["post-37869","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter","tag-mingma-gyalje-sherpa","tag-Nimral-purja"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/K2-from-Concordia-2014-by-Alan-Arnette.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37869","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37869"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37869\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28642"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37869"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37869"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37869"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Mingma G – On Hold<\/h3>\n
Snorri – BC or Above<\/h3>\n
Seven Summits Treks – Some Climb, Others Not<\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Sergi-Mingote-GPS-Track-291x225.jpg\")
<\/a>\n
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Broad Peak – At Base Camp<\/h2>\n
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Manaslu – Ready<\/h2>\n
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n\n