{"id":37876,"date":"2021-01-13T10:46:30","date_gmt":"2021-01-13T17:46:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37876"},"modified":"2021-01-13T17:49:53","modified_gmt":"2021-01-14T00:49:53","slug":"winter-k2-update-a-crowded-mountain","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/13\/winter-k2-update-a-crowded-mountain\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: A Crowded Mountain"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>K2 is filled with people today, most on their second and final acclimatization rotation before a summit attempt perhaps later this month, weather dependent.<\/p>\n<p>The good news is that it warmed up significantly. The bad news is the warmer conditions are causing rockfall. Several climbers reported rockfall yesterday with minor to insignificant injuries. But the warning is clear. I&#8217;m hearing directly from the climbers on conditions.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Big Picture<\/h3>\n<p>The Seven Summit Trek team is sending wave after wave higher, taking advantage of this window. It&#8217;s risky (but what isn&#8217;t on the Hill?) with several days of calm winds, interspersed with a violent one. Some may be forced to stay longer than planned at a camp to ride out a spat of hurricane winds.<\/p>\n<p>As mentioned yesterday, Spanish alpinist Luis Carlos Garranzo was helicoptered from K2 Base Camp suffering from kidney issues. He is the third evacuee this season along with <span class=\"goog-text-highlight\">Polish Waldemar Kowalewski, suffering from a pre-existing hernia. An unidentified Sherpa was also choppered out. There have been health issues with other climbers including Bulgarian Atanas Skatov from Bulgaria who had GI problems but recovered after a 5-day antibiotic course. <\/span><\/p>\n<p>After a difficult weekend of mixed news regarding lost camps and gear, this week is shaping up nicely. Not sure about all the messaging but it&#8217;s clear that everyone is staying motivated and working hard.<\/p>\n<p>These are the teams on K2 this winter:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>: 3 people, all Sherpas<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and son: a three-person independent team<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> (SST) 43 person commercial team with 22 clients and 21 Sherpas in support.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Nirmal PurjaPurja\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nirmal Purja<\/a>: Nirmal Purja plus six Nepalis\/Sherpas in support, one client looking to experience lower K2<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Nim&#8217;s &#8211; C2\/3<\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37889\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37889\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/72651931_2431998700188129_997735162152222720_n-225x169.jpg\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-37889\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" alt=\"Nirmal Purja and Team\"\/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37889\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nirmal Purja and Team<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Nirmal PurjaPurja\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Nirmal Purja&#8217;s<\/a> should be at C2 heading to C3 and hoping to fix ropes to C4 along with the SST rope team.<\/p>\n<p>Nirmal Purja teams consist of Mingma David, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pemchhiri Sherpa, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, and Sandro Gromen-Hayes.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Mingma G &#8211; Waiting<\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37902\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37902\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1-225x169.jpg\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-37902\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" alt=\"Mingma G Sherpa\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1-640x480.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1-230x173.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1-350x263.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1-480x361.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Mingma-G-Sherpa-1.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37902\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mingma G Sherpa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a> seems patient to wait it out but also eager to find out the status of his gear at C2. Mingma tells me directly on Tuesday, January 12 2021 around noon K2 time:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Hi Alan, I can see my tent at Black Pyramid so I hope everything is there inside the tent just below the Black Pyramid.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<h3>Snorri &#8211; C2<\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37899\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37899\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/John-Sorrni-1-225x169.jpg\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-37899\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" alt=\"John Sorrni\"\/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37899\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri Sigurjonsson,and Sajid Ali Sadpara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and his son Sajid Ali are at Camp 2. John sent me this message directly:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>We Just reached C2 Slot of rockfall. [ed: House Chimney] Few times need to jump away from big rocks. Yes if I have correct one American got hit on his hand. [ed: Kedrowki &#8211; he&#8217;s fine.] Nina plans to sleep in C3 if correct info. Tomorrow SW 80 [ed:winds] in C3 It&#8217;s going to be something. We expect 60 [ed:winds] in c2 All our things are OK here except the tent it&#8217;s gone. We have another. On Bulgarian Antanas just arrive c2 we are under chimney<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>So the team is climbing in mixed conditions experiencing high winds and random rockfall. Sounds like K2! You can follow on their <a href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/8OR9H?fbclid=IwAR39OgGsgcRPuC7nBKubRgTdkeXb1i_UH8bKV_8De33KXE128uMiR8Pm4RU\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tracker<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h3><img class=\"aligncenter\"\/>Seven Summits Treks &#8211; Highly Motivated<\/h3>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37888\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"225\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/14dawa\/photos\/pcb.1754221688088988\/1754221664755657\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Chhang-Dawa-Sherpa-225x169.jpg\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-37888\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" alt=\"Chhang Dawa Sherpa\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Chhang-Dawa-Sherpa-225x169.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Chhang-Dawa-Sherpa-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Chhang-Dawa-Sherpa-640x480.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Chhang-Dawa-Sherpa.jpg 1279w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a> Chhang Dawa Sherpa<\/figure>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> commercial team of 22 clients and 21 Sherpas in support is the wild card. <span class=\"goog-text-highlight\">Chhang Dawa Sherpa, director of Seven Summit Treks tells me directly about the team&#8217;s motivation:<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>All are motivated at least we can see some good windows in a week, lets see how it works with real weather condition<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>They are currently on this schedule: 12th Jan &#8211; C2, 13th Jan &#8211; C3, 14th Jan- Rest and preparation in C3, and 15th Jan &#8211; C4 set up, if weather and the mountain permits.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s reported the following are at C2: Sergi Mingote and Atanas Skatov. I assume <span class=\"goog-text-highlight\">Tamara Lunger and Alex Gavan are also there. Juan Pablo Mohr at C1. The plan was to overnight at C3, assuming it gets established and the winds allow.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37887\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"225\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/photo\/?fbid=3961140720587439&#038;set=pcb.10224752154291465\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/138804388_3961140727254105_4180433222378078134_n-1-225x169.jpg\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-37887\" width=\"225\" height=\"169\" alt=\"Noel Hanna at K2 Jan 2021. Courtesy of Lynne Hanna\"\/><\/a> Noel Hanna at K2 Jan 2021. Courtesy of Lynne Hanna<\/figure>\n<p>Lynne Hanna reported on her husband, Noel:<\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">\n<p>Update from K2 Noel has returned to base camp today he has sent me some great photos of the Camp 1. In the shadows taken looking down from half way between Camp 1 and 2 you also see Pemba who is climbing with Noel he was with us on Manaslu in 2019. &#8230; great pics of the glacier &#8230; they will remain at base camp until the winds die down again &#8230; \u2014 with Noel Hanna.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<h2>Broad Peak &#8211; At Base Camp<\/h2>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/zoltan.szlanko\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Zolt\u00e1n Szlank\u00f3<\/a> and A<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alex.goldfarb.3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lex Goldfarb<\/a> are now at base camp according to their Pakistani logistics company, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/AAPORIK\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jasmine Tours Pakistan.<\/a> They did an acclimatization rotation to 6209 meters per <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/groups\/hohatar\/permalink\/1434976663376719\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Laszlo Pinter.<\/a><\/p>\n<h2>Manaslu &#8211; At Base Camp<\/h2>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iamsimonemoro\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Simone Moro<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iamsimonemoro\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alex Txikon<\/a>, and I\u00f1aki Alvarez arrived at Manaslu Base Camp:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>We are already at BC! We&#8217;re ok, acclimating to the altitude and gradually building what will be &#8220;our home&#8221; for the next few weeks. Very good feelings.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/climber_tenji\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tenji Sherpa<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/climber_tenji\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vinayak Jaya Malla<\/a>, both Nepali internationally certified mountain guides (IFMGA) are at Manaslu Base Camp ready to move higher.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<p><strong>Resources<\/strong>:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/reader-polls\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Share your opinion on the reader polls<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/aN5gtrkwgb4\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A 30-minute documentary of Alan&#8217;s 2014 K2 Summit.<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>K2 is filled with people today, most on their second and final acclimatization rotation before a summit attempt later this month. Several climbers reported rockfall yesterday with minor to insignificant injuries. But the warning is clear. I&#8217;m hearing directly from the climbers on conditions.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":28642,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"K2 is filled with people, most on their second and final acclimatization rotation before a summit attempt later in Jan. Several climbers reported minor rockfall yesterday","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598,487,602],"class_list":["post-37876","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter","tag-mingma-gyalje-sherpa","tag-Nimral-purja"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/K2-from-Concordia-2014-by-Alan-Arnette.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37876","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37876"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37876\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28642"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37876"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37876"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37876"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}