{"id":37915,"date":"2021-01-16T05:06:19","date_gmt":"2021-01-16T12:06:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37915"},"modified":"2022-06-15T16:50:29","modified_gmt":"2022-06-15T22:50:29","slug":"winter-k2-update-first-winter-k2-summit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/16\/winter-k2-update-first-winter-k2-summit\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: FIRST WINTER K2 SUMMIT!!!!"},"content":{"rendered":"

CONFIRMED!!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Inspired by Everest’s first winter summit in 1980, a 1983 Polish expedition went to K2 in the winter for reconnaissance. They found byzantine logistics, uncooperative government authorities, and costs that exceeded the most generous budgets. Now, 38 years later, K2 has been summited in the winter.<\/span><\/p>\n

The first summits of 8000-meter peaks have been the mainstay of European and Asian climbers. Nepali, Tibetan and a few Pakistani climbers, especially Sherpas have long supported these efforts. In recent years, the Sherpas have sought to be recognized as world-class climbers in their own right. Mingma G. said before leaving Nepal that this was not about any individual but for a nation and for mountaineering pride:<\/p>\n

For all the other 8000ers summited in winter, no Shepra was with them, so this is an opportunity for Sherpa to demonstrate their strength. Besides alpinists, all the climbers take help from Sherpa to fulfill their dreams of 8000m peaks. I have helped several foreign climbers to get to the summit of different 8000ers. I was a little surprised\u00a0to see no Sherpa on winter first ascent. So this climb is for all the Sherpa community who are so known because of our friends and clients from different foreign countries.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Around 5:00 pm on Saturday, January 16, 2021, the team of Sherpas and Nepalis stood on the summit of the world’s second-highest mountain, K2, on the border of Pakistan and China. They are positioning the summit as a victory for Nepal and the Sherpa nation. All ten climbers stopped 30-feet below the summit on a relatively safe spot (still on a 40-degree snow slope at 28,200-feet) so that they could summit together in a sign of solidarity. No individual was listed as first.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Approaching<\/a>
Approaching K2 Summit 2014 \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lead by\u00a0<\/span>Mingma Gyalje Sherpa,<\/span><\/a>\u00a0<\/span>Nirmal Pueha,<\/span>\u00a0and eight Sherpas: Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa, they took advantage of a short weather window when winds were under ten mph – unheard of for K2’s summit in the summer, much less the winter. They are said to be descending now.<\/span><\/p>\n

The team of ten climbers, left Base Camp on Tuesday, January 12. They followed the fixed rope already installed by\u00a0<\/span>John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/span><\/a>\u00a0with\u00a0<\/span>Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/span><\/a>\u00a0and his son Sajid Ali to Camp 1, then on to Camp 2 with lines set by Mingma G’s team. On Wednesday, they followed ropes established by Mingma G and Nirmal Purja over the Black Pyramid and set up Camp 3. On Thursday, they made fantastic progress and got the line to 7,300m near Camp 4, aka “High Camp,” the only flattish spot on the entire route. They established a camp a bit lower at 7,350-meters. Winds were so high on Thursday night that some climbers took cover in shallow crevasses rather than set up tents.<\/span><\/p>\n

Winds are forecasted to pick back up to 40 and even 100 mph later in the week, so this window is closing quickly for the other aspirants. They may have a chance at the end of January or into February. Of note, with this summit today, there is zero doubt that it was in winter regardless of the\u00a0Meteorological\u00a0<\/span>or\u00a0Astronomical definition.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"K2<\/a>
K2 Summit View into Pakistan. \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"K2<\/a>
K2 Summit View into China. \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There have been questions as to why this Nepali National team was able to accomplish what world-class teams since 1987 have not. My opinion is that they worked as a unified team to get the camps and fixed line in early, they got lucky with the weather, especially in December and early January and on the summit push, they were able to stay healthy and avoid the objective dangers of avalanche and rockfall, they had a strong support team on supplemental oxygen breaking trail and fixing the lines and finally lead by Mingma G and Nirmal Purja, they were determined to show the world’s that Nepali climbers were amongst the best.<\/p>\n

So is it an apples to apples comparison? Perhaps not 100% but they got the job done. Purist will cry foul, most will applaud the accomplishment. I say, well done Team Nepal, well done.<\/p>\n

Previous K2 Winter Attempts<\/span><\/h2>\n

Winter Attempts<\/span><\/h3>\n

There have been six previous winter attempts, none successful.<\/span><\/p>\n