{"id":37967,"date":"2021-01-15T22:14:37","date_gmt":"2021-01-16T05:14:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=37967"},"modified":"2022-06-15T16:53:36","modified_gmt":"2022-06-15T22:53:36","slug":"winter-k2-summit-update-2-tracking-the-historic-summit-push","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/15\/winter-k2-summit-update-2-tracking-the-historic-summit-push\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Summit Update #2: Tracking the Historic Summit Push"},"content":{"rendered":"<h3><strong>Winter K2 Summit Overview:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>The historic winter summit of K2 is underway on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. K2 is the last of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks not summited in winter.<\/p>\n<p>The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. Of course, a lot depends on snow and wind conditions. It will be cold, with wind chills hovering around -55C\/-67F. They will be setting the fixed rope as they climb, so later teams will probably move faster. Remember that Migma G is climbing without supplemental oxygen. He could be the first to summit K2 in the winter with no Os.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3><strong>Summit Push Update #2, 13:00<\/strong>: (all times local K2)<\/h3>\n<p>Dawa from SST notes: &#8220;Team crossing bottle neck in Mt. K2.&#8221; If they left at 1:00am, this is extremely slow but they are fixing rope and have a climber without Os.\u00a0Current wind on K2&#8217;s summit from windy.com. Amazing.<\/p>\n<p>There is always a time lag in these ascents. I assume they will cross the Traverse quickly and summit in the afternoon, which, unlike Everest, is not a problem.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-37971\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1-631x480.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"631\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1-631x480.jpg 631w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1-296x225.jpg 296w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1-1000x761.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1-230x175.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1-350x266.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1-480x365.jpg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Screen-Shot-2021-01-15-at-Friday-Jan-1542.17-PM-1.jpg 1312w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 631px) 100vw, 631px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37946\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37946\" style=\"width: 2048px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-37946\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014.jpeg\" alt=\"K2 Traverse 2014 \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1152\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014-300x169.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014-640x360.jpeg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014-1536x864.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014-1000x563.jpeg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014-230x129.jpeg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014-350x197.jpeg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/K2-Traverse-2014-480x270.jpeg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37946\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">K2 Traverse 2014 \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Summit Push Update #1, 13:00<\/strong>: Climbers should have (seeking confirmation) left High Camp and are climbing towards the Bottleneck, which is notorious for rockfall. They are climbing in the dark under clear skies, temps around -40C with a windchill at -50C. It should take several hours to reach the traverse, which is the most time-consuming part of route fixing. It can take several hours.<\/p>\n<div class=\"mceTemp\"><\/div>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37948\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37948\" style=\"width: 2560px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-scaled.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-37948 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-scaled.jpeg\" alt=\"Ice Serac from K2 C4 2014 \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-scaled.jpeg 2560w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-640x480.jpeg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-225x169.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-1000x750.jpeg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-230x173.jpeg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-350x263.jpeg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Ice-Serac-from-K2-C4-2014-480x360.jpeg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37948\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ice Serac from K2 C4 2014 \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37951\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37951\" style=\"width: 2560px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-scaled.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-37951 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-scaled.jpeg\" alt=\"Approaching the Bottleneck Above K2 C4 2014 \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-scaled.jpeg 2560w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-300x225.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-640x480.jpeg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-225x169.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-1000x750.jpeg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-230x173.jpeg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-350x263.jpeg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-480x360.jpeg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37951\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Approaching the Bottleneck Above K2 C4 2014 \u00a9 www.alanarnette.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Background<\/h3>\n<p>With the fixed ropes set to 7800-meters, the summit team left Camp 4 near 25,080&#8217;\/7600m for the summit at 1:00 am Saturday. \u00a0The team of ten includes:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Nirmal Purja&#8217; Team:\n<ul>\n<li>Nirmal Purja<\/li>\n<li>Gelje Sherpa<\/li>\n<li>Mingma David Sherpa<\/li>\n<li>Mingma Tenzi Sherpa<\/li>\n<li>Dawa Temba Sherpa<\/li>\n<li>Pem Chhiri Sherpa<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>MIngma G&#8217;s team:\n<ul>\n<li>Mingma G<\/li>\n<li>Kilu Pemba Sherpa<\/li>\n<li>Dawa Tenjing Sherpa<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>SST Sherpa:\n<ul>\n<li>Sona Sherpa<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Nirmal Purja will lead the summit team and they suggest there will be no one person claiming the summit but rather a team summit on behalf of Nepal.\u00a0This has been Mingma G.&#8217;s plan all along with his Sherpa only team. Nirmal Purja summit team is also only Sherpa. One Sherpa from Severn Summits Treks is on the summit push. Both gentlemen, Mingma and Nirmal Purja, have expressed a deep desire to show the world that Nepalis are just as credible climbers as any other nationality on the planet.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Resources<\/strong>:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/reader-polls\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Share your opinion on the reader polls<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/aN5gtrkwgb4\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A 30-minute documentary of Alan&#8217;s 2014 K2 Summit<\/a><\/li>\n<li>These are the teams on K2 this winter:\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbermingma\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mingma Gyalje Sherpa<\/a>: 3 people, all Sherpas<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/johnsnorri\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/muhammadalisadpara\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and son: a three-person independent team<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Seven Summits Trek&#8217;s<\/a> (SST) 43 person commercial team with 22 clients and 21 Sherpas in support.<\/li>\n<li>Nirmal Purja plus six Nepalis\/Sherpas in support, one client looking to experience lower K2<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Known GPS Trackers:\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/atanasskatov.com\/new-en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Atanas Skatov<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a title=\"John Snorri Sigurjonsson\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/8OR9H\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener ugc\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a title=\"Sergi Mingote\" href=\"http:\/\/racetracker.es\/rt\/K2WinterExpedition2021\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener ugc\">Sergi Mingote<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a title=\"Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/juanpablomohr\/\" rel=\"nofollow ugc\">Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a title=\"Magdalena Gorzkowska\" href=\"https:\/\/maps.findmespot.com\/s\/JCPZ#live\/assets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener ugc\">Magdalena Gorzkowska<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>K2 Winter team at the Bottleneck. 38 years after the first winter reconnaissance, climbers on K2 are preparing to push towards the summit with a credible chance of making history. \u00a0Saturday, January 16, 2021 looks to be a good summit day as we been discussing all week. A Nepal Sherpa was hit by rockfall suffering serious injuries.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":37951,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Winter K2 Summit Update #2: At the Bottleneck. Slower than expected. Tracking the Historic Summit Push","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598,487,602],"class_list":["post-37967","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter","tag-mingma-gyalje-sherpa","tag-Nimral-purja"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Approaching-the-Bottleneck-Above-K2-C4-2014-scaled.jpeg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37967","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37967"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37967\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/37951"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37967"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37967"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37967"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}