{"id":38107,"date":"2021-01-22T10:44:24","date_gmt":"2021-01-22T17:44:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=38107"},"modified":"2021-01-22T17:46:42","modified_gmt":"2021-01-23T00:46:42","slug":"winter-k2-update-windy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/22\/winter-k2-update-windy\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: Windy"},"content":{"rendered":"

It’s windy out there! Winds at K2 Base Camp are gusting to over 60 mph, but should calm soon and next week looks amazingly good!<\/p>\n

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Big Picture<\/h3>\n

Not a lot to report given the winds on Friday were unbelievably strong. It appears lots of people are taking the time to evaluate their next steps. Most of the best and most experienced climbers are announcing they will stay and give the summit a go when the weather allows, perhaps in a week or so. Would be nice to see more summits in February to ward off any winter definition controversy.<\/p>\n

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Snorri – Helping with Recovery<\/h3>\n

John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and his son Sajid Ali have signaled they will stay as long as it takes. A film crew arrived to document their attempt. John sent me these photos from K2 Base Camp today:<\/p>\n

\"K2<\/a>
K2 Winter 2020\/1 Base Camp. Courtesy of John Snorri<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\"K2<\/a>
K2 Winter 2020\/1 Base Camp. Courtesy of John Snorri<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Seven Summits Treks – Climbing will continue with good weather<\/h3>\n

Seven Summits Trek’s<\/a> has their team at base camp. By my count there are 18 members and about 20 Sherpas still left.\u00a0With the death of Sergi Mingote, one of his climbing partners, Tamara Lunger<\/a> (probably the most experienced member for winter 8000ers), is working through her emotions and will stay:<\/p>\n

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As you may have already read, Alex Gavan has left base camp.\u00a0And I thank him that he has walked with me until here. It has been a very turbulent time for me, full of worries, tears and dark moments. But I decided however to stay here, because I always try to find in every bad thing also something to discover, to understand, to overcome and thus become stronger. K2 means so much to me and although the last rotation on the mountain tried me psychologically, I am convinced that everything I am experiencing here is of great value!<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n

Desnivel<\/a> has a good interview with the late Sergi Mingote’s teammate Chilean climber\u00a0Juan Pablo Mohr where he describe Sergi’s fall (he was in front of him and just saw him go by. He was not clipped into the fixed rope) and his plan with Tamara Lunger<\/a>:<\/span><\/p>\n

Now the plans is to go to make a summit attempt in the next window. We will team up with Tamara Lunger. We want to do this summit for Sergi. We are motivated, we sleep at 7,000 meters with Sergi and we are well acclimatized. We go with everything and we are going to try it for him. We are now lucky to have this angel accompanying us on the ascent.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Both Tamara and JP will climb without supplemental oxygen.<\/p>\n

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Manaslu – Back to Base Camp<\/h2>\n

Simone Moro<\/a>, Alex Txikon<\/a>, and I\u00f1aki Alvarez are back to Manaslu Base Camp after going down to the nearest village to wait out high winds.\u00a0Tenji Sherpa<\/a> and Vinayak Jaya Malla<\/a>\u00a0are at Manaslu Base Camp ready to move higher.\u00a0Alex Txikon<\/a> posted:<\/p>\n

Another day at BC. Working with great enthusiasm, preparing everything in order to go up as soon as conditions allow (let’s see if the wind drops …)<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

Resources:<\/h2>\n