{"id":38200,"date":"2021-01-27T08:24:30","date_gmt":"2021-01-27T15:24:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=38200"},"modified":"2021-01-27T08:24:30","modified_gmt":"2021-01-27T15:24:30","slug":"winter-k2-update-waiting-on-weather-also-on-manaslu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/01\/27\/winter-k2-update-waiting-on-weather-also-on-manaslu\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: Waiting on Weather, Also on Manaslu"},"content":{"rendered":"

Climbers are waiting for the next weather window to open. Several forecasts converge on big winds next week, yet remain mixed on favorable conditions at the end of this week.<\/p>\n

\n

Big Picture<\/h3>\n

As we’ve discussed most climbers need between four to six days to safely summit and return to Base Camp. Let’s look at a range of schedules. Remember that in general winds need to be under 30mph on the summit night, preferably under 20. They can tolerate a bit higher winds, in the beginning, and end but the summit night has to be suitable or they risk severe frostbite or even being blown off the mountain.<\/p>\n

Aggressive – 3 Days: <\/strong>This is almost silly, and only a world-class, speed climber could pull this off assuming they had already acclimatized to 8000-meter which no one K2 has as of today, or<\/span> use a high flow of supplemental oxygen, maybe as high as 6lpm:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. BC-C3<\/li>\n
  2. C3 – Summit<\/li>\n
  3. Summit – BC<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Fast – 4 Days:<\/strong> This is still aggressive but can be done by extremely fit and acclimatized climbers:<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. BC-C2<\/li>\n
    2. C2-C4<\/li>\n
    3. C4-Summit-C3<\/li>\n
    4. C3-BC<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      Normal – 6 Days<\/strong>: This is what most people do in the summer, but given the cold temps in winter, few will take this long. This schedule could be cut to 5 days<\/strong> by going to C2 directly from BC:<\/p>\n

        \n
      1. BC-C1<\/li>\n
      2. C1-C2<\/li>\n
      3. C2-C3<\/li>\n
      4. C3-C4<\/li>\n
      5. C4-Summit-C3<\/li>\n
      6. C3-BC<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

        Slow – 7 Days:<\/strong> This is the absolutely slowest way to summit K2 and I assume no one will take this schedule this winter:<\/p>\n

          \n
        1. BC-ABC<\/li>\n
        2. ABC-C1<\/li>\n
        3. C1-C2<\/li>\n
        4. C2-C3<\/li>\n
        5. C3-C4<\/li>\n
        6. C4-Summit-C3<\/li>\n
        7. C3-BC<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

          There is a break around February 3\/4 so some may try, but the suitable winds look to be measured in hours, not days.<\/p>\n

          \n

          Snorri & Team – At BC<\/h3>\n

          John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and Muhammad’s 20-year-old son Sajid Ali<\/a>\u00a0are in Base Camp looking at the next weather window in early February.<\/p>\n

          Seven Summits Treks – Climbing will continue if there is good weather<\/h3>\n

          Seven Summits Trek’s<\/a> has their team at base camp. By my count, there are 17 members (perhaps fewer) and about 20 Sherpas still left. However, with this large of a team and the wide range of experience, I’ll never be surprised to see a few climbers get ahead of the pack.<\/p>\n

          <\/figure>\n
          \n

          Manaslu – Ready to Go Up<\/h2>\n

          Simone Moro<\/a>, Alex Txikon<\/a>, and I\u00f1aki Alvarez are at Manaslu Base Camp.\u00a0Tenji Sherpa<\/a> and Vinayak Jaya Malla<\/a>\u00a0are also at Manaslu Base Camp ready to move higher when winds allow.\u00a0Simone gave this update:<\/p>\n

          Today I returned to the BC after two nights in Samagaon. Also today strong wind on the Manaslu. But in the next few days there seems to be a slight decrease in wind strength… and we are ready… Tomorrow we finally leave for the last rotation of acclimatization and installation of C2 and C3. Then by the end of the first week of February it looks like we have the right window for the summit push…We’ll see, one step at a time.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

          Climb On!
          \nAlan
          \nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n

          Resources:<\/h2>\n