Snorri and team plan to take 2 days from BC to C3, then the summit and back to C2. So three days up and one back. Again, incredibly aggressive. They plan to summit on Friday. They delayed their departure by one day and will leave BC at 4 am Wednesday morning.<\/p>\n
This is the 10-day wind forecast from windy.com (red is bad, green is good):<\/p>\n John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a> with Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/a> and Muhammad’s 20-year-old son Sajid Ali<\/a> will leave early Wednesday morning aiming for a Friday summit. John gave this schedule:<\/p>\n Seven Summits Trek’s<\/a> has sent eight Sherpas up to fix the route, and stock the camps for their members. By my count, there are 15 members (perhaps fewer) and about 20 Sherpas still left. Perhaps nine or more members along with two or more climbing Sherpas are with them in addition to the eight already on the mountain. This puts 19 people from SST on this summit push, leaving six or so members hoping for another window.<\/p>\n Style<\/strong><\/p>\n One of the topics the purists love to pontificate about is style – solo, unsupported, assisted, etc. My interest comes in the climber being honest and accurate about what support they used. Several members are not partnering with a climbing Sherpa but they will use the fixed ropes thus their effort would be classified as “unsupported” with an asterisk, and certainly not solo as they are climbing in a large group, following other climber’s boot track. And clearly not “alpine” regardless of the definition used for that style.<\/p>\n O’s, No O’s<\/strong><\/p>\n Another don’t care for me but some do care is Os, so let’s run down the O’s usage. We know that Mattia Conte,\u00a0Tamara Lunger and Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto will not use supplemental oxygen. It’s been reported but not confirmed that Magdalena Gorzkowska and Oswald Rodrigo Pereira<\/span>\u00a0will also not use Os.<\/p>\n Other\u00a0climbers\u00a0thought to be on this push, using Os, include Antonios Sykaris, Noel Hanna, Bernhard Lippert and Tomasz Rotar. I continue to be concerned\u00a0about\u00a0everyone’s\u00a0acclimatization, or lack thereof,\u00a0especially\u00a0for the ones not using O’s. The lack of\u00a0acclimatization\u00a0is a\u00a0dangerous\u00a0gamble\u00a0with their lives. I hope they use good judgement and don’t risk fingers, toes or lives, or lives of those assisting in a\u00a0rescue.<\/p>\n Antonios Sykaris<\/a>\u00a0and many others are reported to be at Camp 1:<\/p>\n Antonis is at Camp 1 and resting, he is in good health. It has -27 in the tent and the wind is at 20km. Simone Moro<\/a>, Alex Txikon<\/a>, and I\u00f1aki Alvarez along with the separate team of\u00a0Tenji Sherpa<\/a> and Vinayak Jaya Malla<\/a> are making good progress fixing the route and have begun thinking bout the summit. Alex’s update:<\/p>\n Alex, I\u00f1aki, Cheppal, Gelum, Namja and Kalden are at C1, where they will sleep. Today I\u00f1aki and Gelum brought 400m of rope, poles and 2 ladders to the highest point equipped, while Alex and the others brought another 1,000m of rope, poles …from BC to C1 … tomorrow they hope to bring everything to C2 and that Simone, Tenzing and Vinayak bring the rest of their material from BC to C2. Then, 2-3 days resting all together at BC before the summit attack<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Simone’s update:<\/p>\n Today was an important day – a huge effort: from 5900m to 6600m and then down to 4850 m. The Sherpas assisted me for quite a while then ran away from the cold. I continued and fixed everything. From 6600 m. we finally see the possibility of arriving at Camp 3 with two more days of work less hard than the last in terms of swimming in the almost vertical snow.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Climb On! This round of 22+ K2 climbers have some at Camp 1, around 20,000-feet, others leaving Wednesday morning, all aiming for a summit attempt on Friday. Long range forecast suggest another window late next week but too early to call.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":38288,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"This round of 22+ K2 climbers have some at C1 others leaving Wednesday morning, all aiming for a Friday summit. Long range forecast suggest another window late next week","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598],"class_list":["post-38306","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/K2-Climbers-2014.-\u00a9-www.alanarnette.com_-scaled.jpeg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38306","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=38306"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38306\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/38288"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=38306"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=38306"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=38306"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"K2](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-01-at-Monday-Feb-106.28-PM-640x79.jpg\")
<\/a>
\nSnorri & Team – Targeting Friday, February 5th for Summit<\/h3>\n
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Seven Summits Treks – At C1, 18 or more from SST on the Mountain<\/h3>\n
\nWe will be back with new ones soon.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
\nManaslu: More Progress, Summit Prep<\/h2>\n
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\nResources:<\/h2>\n
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