{"id":38342,"date":"2021-02-04T14:48:41","date_gmt":"2021-02-04T21:48:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=38342"},"modified":"2021-02-04T17:08:30","modified_gmt":"2021-02-05T00:08:30","slug":"winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/02\/04\/winter-k2-update-summit-push-update-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #1"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Climbers have left Camp 3 for their summit bid, half have already turned back due to the cold and fear of frostbite. The weather window has narrowed, now higher winds moving to K2 early Saturday morning, around dawn, basically 30 hours from the time of this post. They need to get up and down now, or turn back. The wind chill near the summit is -70F\/-57C. There are 10 or less still pushing for the summit.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3>Latest Status: 2:45 am K2 Time &#8211; Turning Back<\/h3>\n<p><del>Snorri&#8217;s team has turned back without the summit.<\/del>\u00a0UPDATE: Conflicting information on the Iceland\/Pakistan team status.<\/p>\n<p>Multiple Sherpas are reporting frostbite. Not sure of the reason (other than the obvious cold) but in this day with the technology available, frostbite is generally rare assuming the proper gear, but these are incredibly harsh conditions. Nine of the ten who summited on January 16, reported some form of frostbite.<\/p>\n<p>Thus far these climbers have turned back:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Colin O&#8217;Brady<\/li>\n<li>Antonios Sykaris<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Conflicting information on the Iceland\/Pakistan team<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/li>\n<li>Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/li>\n<li>Sajid Ali Sadpara<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Now confirmed that there was a tent shortage at C3. I was afraid this might happen with so many people, some very independent, attempting the summit at the same time. Seems like a problem that could have been avoided with a bit of communication and planning.<\/p>\n<p>Update from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/14x8000\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dr. Atanas Skatov<\/a>&#8216;s\u00a0home team:<\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Nasko safely arrived at Camp 3 around 18:30 local time. We hope the window, which is quite short to keep. Forecast tomorrow at 10:00 pm the wind is expected to increase, which is why the summit attack will start tonight probably around 23:00 pm. (20:00 pm) Bulgarian time).\u00a0Unfortunately, we have found out that there is a problem with camp 3 tents that are insufficient as a number, but so far everything is fine.\u00a0In case Nasko contacts us, we will try to update the information we have.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">\n<p class=\"_7UhW9 fKFbl yUEEX KV-D4 fDxYl \"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/antonios_sykaris\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Antonios Sykaris<\/a> provided this update:<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<blockquote>\n<div dir=\"auto\">Antonis decided not to continue his effort for the top as he is currently experiencing frostbite, possibly grade 3 on his toes, as well as he was informed that the weather is changing and making his effort prohibitive. Specifically he told us: &#8220;&#8221; I got here with a lot of mental and physical effort. Most sherpas have frostbite and we all try to repair the damage. Unfortunately my sleeping bag is at C2 and I will have to stay at 7440m all night at -38 C. &#8220;4 people from the whole team have started but 2 have returned due to the cold.&#8221; We will inform you about anything new.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>This was the summit push schedule:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Tuesday, 2 Feb: BC &#8211; C1 (winds over 20 mph)<\/li>\n<li>Wednesday, 3 Feb: C1 &#8211; C3\u00a0(winds drop under 20 mph morning)<\/li>\n<li>Thursday, 4 Feb: C3 &#8211; Begin Summit Push before midnight (winds under 20 mph)<\/li>\n<li>Friday, 5 Feb: Summit &#8211; C2 (winds under 20 mph)<\/li>\n<li>Saturday, 6 Feb: C2 &#8211; BC (wind increase over 20 mph by noon)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>This is the <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>latest<\/strong><\/span> wind forecast from windy.com (red is bad, green is good):<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_38332\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-38332\" style=\"width: 1890px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.windy.com\/35.882\/76.514?35.866,76.514,13,m:eEXaiiG\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-38332\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM.jpg\" alt=\"Weather through this weekend. Courtesy of Windy.com\" width=\"1890\" height=\"424\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM.jpg 1890w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM-300x67.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM-640x144.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM-1536x345.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM-1000x224.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM-230x52.jpg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM-350x79.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/Screen-Shot-2021-02-04-at-Thursday-Feb-459.28-AM-480x108.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1890px) 100vw, 1890px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-38332\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Weather through this weekend. Courtesy of Windy.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<hr \/>\n<figure id=\"attachment_29140\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-29140\" style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-29140\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/K2-Abruzzi-Route-Map-1-297x225.jpg\" alt=\"K2 Abruzzi Route Map\" width=\"500\" height=\"379\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/K2-Abruzzi-Route-Map-1-297x225.jpg 297w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/K2-Abruzzi-Route-Map-1-633x480.jpg 633w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/K2-Abruzzi-Route-Map-1.jpg 1411w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-29140\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">K2 Abruzzi Route Map<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>It appears these are the remaining climbers attempting to summit as of 2:45 am K2 time:<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">No O&#8217;s (last reported holding at C3)<\/span><\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto<\/li>\n<li>Tamara Lunger<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">With O&#8217;s<\/span><\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Noel Hanna<\/li>\n<li>Bernhard Lippert with\u00a0Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa<\/li>\n<li>Tomasz Rotar<\/li>\n<li>Bernhard Lippert<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">Josette Valloton with\u00a0<\/span>Temba Bhote\u00a0Sherpa<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Sherpas<\/span><\/p>\n<ol>\n<li dir=\"auto\">Lhakpa Temba Sherpa<\/li>\n<li dir=\"auto\">Mingma Temba\u00a0Sherpa<\/li>\n<li dir=\"auto\">Lakpa Dendi\u00a0Sherpa<\/li>\n<li dir=\"auto\">Phurbu Kusang\u00a0Sherpa<\/li>\n<li dir=\"auto\">Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa<\/li>\n<li dir=\"auto\">Pasang Dukpa\u00a0Sherpa<\/li>\n<li dir=\"auto\">Pastemba\u00a0Sherpa<\/li>\n<li>Temba Bhote\u00a0Sherpa<span id=\"control-pane-header-username\" class=\"text-overflow-ellipsis control-pane-header-username-with-margin\" title=\"Juan Pablo Mohr\"><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<h2>Resources:<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/reader-polls\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Share your opinion on the reader polls<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/aN5gtrkwgb4\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A 30-minute documentary of Alan&#8217;s 2014 K2 Summit<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Known GPS Trackers:\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/atanasskatov.com\/new-en\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Atanas Skatov<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a title=\"John Snorri Sigurjonsson\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/8OR9H\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener ugc\">John Snorri Sigurjonsson<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a title=\"Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/juanpablomohr\/\" rel=\"nofollow ugc\">Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/PasangNorbuSherpaK2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Passang Norbuu Sherpa<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>The traditional K2 Camp locations are:\n<ul>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n<li>Base Camp: 17,500ft\/5334m<\/li>\n<li>Advanced Base Camp: 18,650ft\/5650m<\/li>\n<li>Camp 1: 19,965&#8217;\/6050m<\/li>\n<li>Camp 2: 22,110&#8217;\/6700m<\/li>\n<li>Camp 3: 23,760&#8217;\/7200m<\/li>\n<li>Camp 4: 25,080&#8217;\/7600m<\/li>\n<li>Summit: 28,251&#8221;\/8611<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Climbers have left Camp 3 for their summit bid, half have already turned back due to the cold and fear of frostbite. The weather window has narrowed, now higher winds moving to K2 early Saturday morning, around dawn, basically 30 hours from the time of this post. They need to get up and down now, or turn back. The wind chill near the summit is -70F\/-57C. There are 10 or less still pushing for the summit.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":38288,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Half the K2 climbers have turn back below the summit with windchills at -70F.  Higher winds early Saturday morning, around dawn. Perhaps 10 still climbing, probably less.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,562,597],"tags":[42,598],"class_list":["post-38342","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2020-coverage","category-k2-winter","tag-k2","tag-k2-winter"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/K2-Climbers-2014.-\u00a9-www.alanarnette.com_-scaled.jpeg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38342","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=38342"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38342\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/38288"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=38342"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=38342"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=38342"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}