This is a partial list of who is there:<\/p>\n
- \n
- Pioneer Adventure<\/a>: Broad Peak, K2<\/li>\n
- Madison Mountaineering<\/a>: K2<\/li>\n
- Karakorum Expeditions<\/a>: Broad Peak, K2<\/li>\n
- Graham Zimmerman<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Ian Welsted<\/a>: K2 West Ridge<\/li>\n
- Sajid Ali Sadpara<\/a>: searching for evidence of his father, Muhammad Ali Sadpara<\/li>\n
- Spanish Team: Nanga Parbat<\/li>\n
- Broad Peak:\u00a0Don Bowie, Lotta Hintsa plus many of the K2 climbers who will \u201cacclimitze\u201d there<\/li>\n
- Blue Sky<\/a> Czech Republic & Slovakia: GI<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
At this point, it appears the only team from Nepal will be<\/del>\u00a0Update: Trying to clarify if Pioneer is independent or supporting the team Alpomania. A team of nine, Pioneer Adventure<\/a>. The team includes \u00a0Lakpa Sherpa, Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, plus Sanu Sherpa, Pemba R. Sherpa, Chhiring N. Sherpa, Mingma D. Sherpa (Saila), Pemba D. Sherpa, Lakpa G. Sherpa, and Tashi Sherpa.<\/p>\nSherpa Support<\/strong><\/p>\n
American Garett Madison, is also there with an 8 person team supported by an equal amount of Sherpas. I spoke live to Garrett from Skardu on Sunday, June 27, 2021. He cited having a good network in Pakistan and throughout the world for being the only American team on K2 this season. His team has climbers from America, Britain, and Ukraine. He chartered an airplane to fly his group of eight Sherpas from Kathmandu to Islamabad. These are the same Sherpas he climbed Everest with this past spring. All have been vaccinated. They brought all the Everest gear from Nepal to Pakistan. He sent me this picture of the Sherpas:<\/p>\n
![\"Madison](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/06ab14b2-a3f1-4eca-972d-8d26a343370f.jpg\")
<\/a>Madison Mountaineering Sherpas flying to Islamabad. Courtesy of Garrett Madison.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n <\/p>\n
![\"K2](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/K2-Abruzzi-Route-Map-1-225x169.jpg\")
K2 Abruzzi Route Map<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n Pakistani operator Karakorum Expeditions<\/a>\u00a0lead by Mirza Ali\u2019s has eleven clients on K2 and Broad Peak supported by 22 Pakistani climbers. European mountain guides Austrian Stephan Keck<\/a> and Spaniard Jordi Tosas<\/a>\u00a0will fix lead the five-person Pakistani rope team.<\/p>\n
Ali’s sister,\u00a0Samina Baig<\/a>, who became the first Pakistani female to summit Everest and complete the Seven Summits is on the team for K2. \u00a0She gave this update from base camp.<\/p>\n
The team has fixed rope up to camp 1 on k2 today. After establishing camp one the whole team is safely back to base camp.<\/p>\n
Team members
\nJalal u din
\nEid Mohammad
\nAhmed Baig
\nBasharatFaryad Karim
\nInayat<\/p><\/blockquote>\nAli said the entire team may try to acclimatize on Broad Peak before going to K2. One of the foreigners on the team is Greek\u00a0Fotis Theocharis. He is making his tracker<\/a> public. Also on the team are Anne Bialek and Victor Sans.<\/p>\n
West Ridge<\/strong><\/p>\n
I interviewed<\/a> American Graham Zimmerman<\/a> last month about his K2 West Ridge attempt with Candian Ian Welsted<\/a>. This route has never been 100% completed.<\/p>\n
Ian Welsted<\/a>\u00a0gave this most recent update from K2 Base Camp:<\/span><\/div>\n\n
The crowds in the Baltoro are new to me, always having been to more obscure corners of the Karakorum. It is amazing to see the allure of the normal routes on the 8000ers.\u00a0K2 basecamp, bottom right, is taking shape, while we have pitched ourselves bottom left, heading toward the Savoia Glacier, and our objective, the West Ridge, here swathed in cloud in the upper centre.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\nBelguim duoa of Jeff Spelman and Niels Jespers will be on K2 sans Os.<\/p>\n
Another climb to watch is\u00a0Sajid Ali Sadpara<\/a>\u00a0wh will be searching for evidence of his father, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, and perhaps a summit last winter, after he with teammates Icelander John Snorri Sigurjonsson and Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr, went missing on their summit bid. They were presumed dead after a few weeks. \u00a0Pakistan’s Jasmine Tours’ Asghar Ali Porik is providing logistic support.<\/p>\n
And the Other 8000ers<\/h2>\n
Going for a 3fer is French climber\u00a0Serge Hardy looking at Broad Peak, GI, and GII according to Montagnes\u00a0<\/em>magazine.<\/p>\n
Gasherbrum I\/II<\/h3>\n
At 26,362\u2019\/8035m. GII is often considered the most attainable of\u00a0the Karakoram\u2019s 8000ers. There have been about 350 summits of GI and 940 of GII. We’ll find a commercial team lead by German guide Amical alpin<\/a>\u00a0there plus the 32-year-old Pakistani Sirbaz Kahn <\/a>who is on a mission. He wants all fourteen of the 8000ers and has Annapurna and Everest plus six others. Now he will go for \u00a0G I and G II.<\/p>\n
Looking to ski down G’s, is the French team of Boris Langensteina and Tiphaine Duperier with Aurelia Lanoe and Guillaume Pierrel. And well-known\u00a0Italian Marco Confortola will attempt Gasherbrum I, with five teammates. Lluis Cortadellas will assist this team. Iran mountaineers Arman Shahpari and Milad Keshavarzi are also aiming for the G’s.<\/p>\n
Marco<\/a>‘s home team posted on IG:<\/p>\n
Marco this morning reached 6.000 Mt (more or less) of C1.\u00a0As already reported yesterday, they intend to spend the night at high altitude to take advantage of the good acclimatization.The mood is very high and it is clear that much<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Nanga Parbat<\/h3>\n
Spanish team led by Manuel Gonzalez<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0is on Naga this summer with Enrique Osiel, I\u00f1igo Delgado, Sergio Carrascoso, and Carlos Santafe. They intend to repeat Reinhold Messner climb of the Diamir Face.<\/p>\n
Broad Peak<\/h3>\n
BP is often considered a warm-up for K2 but that grossly understates the difficulty of this\u00a026,414\u2019\/8051m peak. About 425 people have summited Broad. \u00a0Every season people talk about summiting both but it is rarely accomplished as I described in this post<\/a> last.<\/p>\n
Canadian Don Bowie and Finnish climber Lotta Hintsa are already on Broad for 2021. Bowie<\/a> posted in IG:<\/p>\n
Three weeks of poor weather since we arrived at base camp. @lottahintsa<\/a> and I have managed to break trail toward Camp 2 on two occasions and have stayed in Camp 1 for 5 nights – tonight will be 6… , but deep snow and avalanche conditions have so far turned us back from reaching 2. Today we managed to stash some gear and rope on the way to Camp 2, slogging at times through 40-50cm of snow. The depth of snow is not the issue so much as the unstable slopes, but after the intense sun this afternoon and eve things are beggining to stabilize. One meter at a time… carefully. #broadpeak<\/a> #slog<\/a> –<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n
![\"Camp](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/karakorum_2006_815-637x480.jpg\")
<\/a>Camp 2 on Broad Peak in 2006\u00a0\u00a9 Photo by Alan Arnette. All rights reserved<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n <\/p>\n
Climb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nVideo Version of this post<\/h2>\n
\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t - Madison Mountaineering<\/a>: K2<\/li>\n