{"id":39783,"date":"2021-07-08T17:53:02","date_gmt":"2021-07-08T23:53:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=39783"},"modified":"2021-07-14T21:19:10","modified_gmt":"2021-07-15T03:19:10","slug":"k2-2021-summer-coverage-rotations-begin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/07\/08\/k2-2021-summer-coverage-rotations-begin\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Rotations Begin"},"content":{"rendered":"

The poor weather in the Karakorum that slowed climbing has eased a bit, allowing teams to work on their acclimatization rotations in earnest. <\/span><\/p>\n

Big Picture<\/span><\/h2>\n

After a bit of a slow start due to the poor weather, primarily winds and snow, teams are starting to make their acclimatization rotations. If they are climbing without supplemental oxygen, then most climbers will want to tag 8,000-meters on their peak before returning to rest and wait for the weather window. However, these days, the commercial teams are starting to use supplemental oxygen much lower and at higher flow rates thus are keeping their rotations to as little as one.<\/p>\n

There was a large amount of snow over the past two weeks but teams have let it settle. However, I remain concerned about avalanche danger, especially on Broad Peak.<\/p>\n

One aspect of the season that I’m noticing thus far is the strength and independence of the Pakistani climbers. While the Sherpas apparently set the fixed line to C3 on K2 today, it was not without the apt assistance of the Pakistani climbers. An excellent sign of more independence in their climbing community for future expeditions.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, the new 4G cell tower recently installed in Concordia is down, preventing a lot of information from K2, Broad Peak, and the Gashbrums. However, the good news is that the weather continues to look good for the next few days.<\/span><\/p>\n

Lot’s climbers but no Crowds … yet<\/h2>\n

K2 is crowded but not as bad in the past few years. American Garett Madison of\u00a0<\/span>Madison Mountaineering<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0texted me from C1 on K2 that “Not very crowded yet. I counted about 80 climbers total for K2, including all Pakistani as well.”<\/span><\/p>\n

He has nine climbers (USA, UK & Ukrain), 10 Nepal Sherpas, 4 Pakistani high altitude porters, and 10 Pakistani base camp staff. They are currently at Camp 1 to spend two nights before moving to Camp 2 for two additional nights, then returning to Base Camp. It will be interesting to see if they call it good for acclimatization and wait for a good window for a summit bid.<\/span><\/p>\n

Pioneer Adventure<\/span><\/a>\u00a0is supporting the Ukraine team\u00a0<\/span>Alpomania<\/span><\/a>. They have fixed the ropes to Camp 3 on K2 through the Black Pyramid with “some other Sherpas” whom they choose not to name. The largest team with Sherpas is from Madison Mountaineering. It’s a shame not to be more transparent about working together. They posted:<\/span><\/p>\n

Today at around 3 pm our following Sherpa Guides have successfully opened the route till Camp 3:<\/span><\/p>\n