{"id":39857,"date":"2021-07-19T11:41:01","date_gmt":"2021-07-19T17:41:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=39857"},"modified":"2021-07-19T11:41:01","modified_gmt":"2021-07-19T17:41:01","slug":"k2-2021-summer-coverage-death-and-trouble-on-broad-peak","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/07\/19\/k2-2021-summer-coverage-death-and-trouble-on-broad-peak\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Death and Trouble on Broad Peak"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Scattered reports are coming in of serious trouble and death from Sunday&#8217;s summits on Broad Peak as the peaks are now being hit by bad weather.<\/p>\n<p>The news agency, <a href=\"https:\/\/en.yna.co.kr\/view\/AEN20210719004752315\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Yonhao News Agency<\/a>, reported that Korean climber Kim Hong Bin, 57, is missing and presumed dead. Also, I received a text from a climber on Broad Peak who said &#8220;a Russin woman&#8221; had fallen into the same crevasse and was rescued. It&#8217;s believed to be Anastasia Runova. The text added, that climbers were descending with severe frostbite. Finally one of the climbers with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.karakorumexpedition.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Karakorum Expeditions<\/a> had not arrived at Camp 3 after the summit, and helicopters were being dispatched for rescue. But with the poor weather, it&#8217;s doubtful the choppers will fly.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/profile.php?id=100014032001161\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u0410\u043d\u0442\u043e\u043d \u041f\u0443\u0433\u043e\u0432\u043a\u0438\u043d<\/a> posted some details on Facebook that described a 15-meter slip into a crevasse and that <a href=\"&quot;https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/vitaly.lazo\">Vitaly Lazoleft <\/a>with teammate, Thomas Lone, tried to render aid but were unsuccessful<\/p>\n<p>Kim had lost all ten fingers to frostbite in 1991 while climbing Denali. Broad Peak was the last of his 8000ers. He was climbing with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/bluskytours\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Blue Sky Tours<\/a> who posted these climbers summited on Sunday:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>1) Mr.Hongbin Kim<br \/>\n2) Mis. Sofie Lenaerts<br \/>\n3) Mr.Stef Maginelle<br \/>\n4) Mr.Yousuf<br \/>\n5) Mr.Imtiyaz<br \/>\n6) Mr. Mehdi<br \/>\n7) Mr.Hussian (Rope Fixing leader)<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>The area between Camp 3 and the saddle is known to have multiple crevasses. Almost every year, a climber or two falls in and occasionally it results in a death.<\/p>\n<p>My deep condolences to Mr. Bin&#8217;s family, teammates, and friends.<\/p>\n<p>Alan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Teams and Trackers (partial list)<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Broad Peak, K2\n<ul>\n<li><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/madisonmountaineering.com\/dispatches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Madison Mountaineering<\/a>: 9 climbers (USA, UK &amp; Ukrain), 10 Nepal Sherpas, 4 Pakistani high altitude porters, and 10 Pakistani base camp staff.\u00a0\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/advtech.rainon.com\/Mountain?tripID=8184\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tracker<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/kentoncool\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Kenton Cool<\/a> with a client. <a href=\"http:\/\/kentoncool.com\/tracking-map\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tracker<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/MountExpeds\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jon Gupta<\/a> with a client<\/li>\n<li><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.karakorumexpedition.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Karakorum Expeditions<\/a>: 11 members supported by 22 Pakistani climbers. Trackers:\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/fotis\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fotis Theocharis<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/garranzoK2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Carlos Garranzo<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.grahamzimmerman.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Graham Zimmerman<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ianwelsted.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ian Welsted<\/a>: West Ridge &#8211; No Public Tracker Known<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>K2 Only\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/iraaleksandrovna\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ukrainian-Nepalese K2 Expedition 2021<\/a>: 3 Ukrainians and 3 Nepal&#8217;s\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CQiKo53pbU5\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pioneer Adventure<\/a>\u00a0Sherpas<\/li>\n<li>Ukraine team\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/alpomania.team\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alpomania<\/a>\u00a0supported by 6 Sherpas from Nepal&#8217;s<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CQiKo53pbU5\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u00a0Pioneer Adventure<\/a><\/li>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sajidali.sadpara\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sajid Ali Sadpara<\/a>: searching for evidence of his father, Muhammad Ali Sadpara. Team of 3 with BC support.\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/eliasaikaly\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tracker<\/a><\/li>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nielsjespers.be\/blog?\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jeff Spelman and Niels Jespers<\/a>\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nielsjespers.be\/live-gps.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tracker<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Broad Peak only\n<ul>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/victorsans\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Victor Sans<\/a><\/li>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/donbowie\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Don Bowie<\/a>\u00a0with\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/lottahintsa\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lotta Hintsa\u00a0<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Gasherbrum I\n<ul>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/bluskytours\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Blue Sky<\/a>\u00a0Czech Republic &amp; Slovakia<\/li>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"http:\/\/everestmountain.co.uk\/the-altitude-team-gasherbrum-diary\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lluis Cortadellas<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Gasherbrum II\n<ul>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\">Poland\u2019s\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/BeskidPamirExpedition\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Beskid Expedition<\/a>\u00a0with Piotr Krzyzowski\u2019s\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/eur.explore.garmin.com\/textmessage\/viewmsg?culture=pl-PL&amp;mo=1c1999fa6b474b5bb88d07b6087011860\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tracker<\/a><\/li>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/2021\/07\/08\/gasherbrums-and-nanga-parbat-whos-where-right-now\/bit.ly\/Gasherbrum_2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Czech-Slovak\u00a0<\/a>\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/l.facebook.com\/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fbit.ly%2FGarminExpe%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR0r36TT4ssV38kUrhwr26gU1lW0bWXmGMbixg-Paxca9qL5FSuEzgFgUcM&amp;h=AT3o6b1fCPEkYlD_KLR9-YP0UpvwB9eCLEUb0ljdpuyAUvXYHrEWdPYwtK6IL8TyHLMULNUZ8cuwDQ4an7Q6Zj225tuLKMxNJt6gaDTVCsB73PUqVYRYJ6ipCK0Rt1LBSA&amp;__tn__=-UK-R&amp;c%5b0%5d=AT1qBpvzxtQ-y9jQ6apQAQhjSxeJcGr3vE7uk-BGMhOcMZVf0yeArbAL0Q3Em6bBkluH967cHXWGgBGPd9R4xk3VC8H1xm7uf7xzmQXEHnkfT_FhU23mv2rvrOSFetVVNSdjJSn3MvritlMP9tSDUpVAogy61mf4YSNV_KQ1BAXdDA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tracker<\/a><\/li>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/thealtitudeteam\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Altitude Team<\/a>\u00a0with Lluis Cortadellas&#8217;\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/llcortadellasG2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tracker<\/a><\/li>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\">Pakistan&#8217;s Sirbaz Khan&#8217;s\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/share.garmin.com\/sirbaz14\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tracker<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Broad Peak, GI, and GII\n<ul>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\">Serge Hardy<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Nanga Parbat &#8211; Over\n<ul>\n<li class=\"ql-indent-1\">5 person\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.desnivel.com\/expediciones\/una-expedicion-andaluza-intentara-el-nanga-parbat-por-una-nueva-variante\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spanish Team<\/a>\u00a0lead by Manuel &#8216;Lolo&#8217; Gonz\u00e1lez.\u00a0<a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/maps.findmespot.com\/s\/D460#history\/assets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tracker<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\n<p><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">You can listen to #everest2021\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><strong>podcasts<\/strong><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">\u00a0on\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">,\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple Podcast<\/a><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">,\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.breaker.audio\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-dot-com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Breaker<\/a><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">,\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/podcasts?feed=aHR0cHM6Ly9hbmNob3IuZm0vcy81MTc3MjdlYy9wb2RjYXN0L3Jzcw==\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Google Podcasts<\/a><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">,\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">,\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/radiopublic.com\/the-podcast-on-alanarnettecom-G2R7r0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">RadioPublic<\/a><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">,\u00a0<\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\"><a class=\"editor-rtfLink\" href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a><\/span><span data-preserver-spaces=\"true\">, and more. Just search for \u201calan arnette\u201d on your favorite podcast platform.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Scattered reports are coming in of serious trouble and death from Sunday&#8217;s summits on Broad Peak as the peaks are now being hit by bad weather.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":21268,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Scattered reports are coming in of serious trouble and death from Sunday's summits on Broad Peak as the peaks are now being hit by bad weather.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,613],"tags":[432,614],"class_list":["post-39857","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2021-coverage","tag-climbing-news","tag-k2-2021-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/karakorum_2006_785.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39857","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=39857"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/39857\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/21268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=39857"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=39857"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=39857"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}