{"id":40009,"date":"2021-09-22T12:09:15","date_gmt":"2021-09-22T18:09:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=40009"},"modified":"2021-09-25T17:08:43","modified_gmt":"2021-09-25T23:08:43","slug":"autumn-2021-himalayan-season-preparing-for-the-summit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/09\/22\/autumn-2021-himalayan-season-preparing-for-the-summit\/","title":{"rendered":"Autumn 2021 Himalayan Season: Preparing for the Summit"},"content":{"rendered":"

With teams well acclimatized on Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, and\u00a0Kangchenjunga, they are now in weather watch mode for a suitable weather window. Some are expecting September 27\/28 on Manaslu. Here’s an overview of the action.<\/p>\n

Big Picture<\/h3>\n

The Autumn seasons started off wet and soggy with the monsoon refusing to leave on time (I hate it when it behaves this way! \ud83d\ude42 \u00a0) but now the season has settled into crisp days, cold nights, and clear skies, what Autumn usually brings in the Himalaya.<\/p>\n

Manaslu has the highest number of climbers this Autumn with 171 permits issued to foreigners combined with an equal number of support climbers totaling 342 people climbing the mountain. The next highest is Dhaualagri with 80 total climbers. Overall there are around 460 climbers spread over 25 teams on six peaks in Nepal. China has closed to foreigners again this autumn and there are few to none currently climbing in Pakistan.<\/p>\n

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Manaslu – Weather Watch<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Considered one of the most “achievable” peaks, Manalsu has become a very popular objective, especially for first-time big mountain aspirants. Standing at 8,163-metres\/26,781-feet, it’s the eighth highest peak on the planet. There are many reports of deep snow high on the peak, but not causing significant issues thus far.<\/p>\n

8K Expeditions<\/a>‘s Pemba Sherpa reports:<\/p>\n

8K international Manaslu expedition 2021 team have completely done their acclimatisation up to C3. Now it\u2019s time for the good food, shower and rest well. We will keep you updated more in upcoming days<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

And Tendi Sherpa<\/a> leading the Climbing the Seven Summits<\/a> team adds:<\/p>\n

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After two great rotations at high camps we are safely back down to Base camp today. Weather have been so nice the last couple of days and we were able to enjoy and climb to camp 3 for our final rotation and spent two great nights at camp two. Lots of pictures that I took during the climb and hopefully you will enjoy them!\u00a0We will wait for the good weather and route setup above camp 3 and hoping for summit push soon<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n
Visit his Facebook<\/a> page for 25 great photos of Manaslu this season.\u00a0And Austrian operator, Furtenbach Adventure<\/a> is ready for the push:<\/div>\n
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Sun, snow, wind and rain on Manaslu. Digging out high camp tents is one if the less popular tasks\"😬\"<\/span>. Sherpapower makes it look eassy. But it\u2019s not. Classic team went down to Samagaun for recovery after their final rotation, while the Flash team is on their final rotation right now. After that waiting for the summit push<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Dhaulagiri – Rope to C3 at 7100-meters<\/h3>\n

There are four teams with 40 foreign permited climbers on the 8167-meter\/26,795-foot peak including\u00a083-year-old\u00a0Carlos Soria Font\u00e1n <\/a>which is his 12th attempt. He shared this information to Desnivel<\/a> on his latest attempt:<\/p>\n

\u201cEverything is going quite well for us although the weather is not being very good, it is raining and snowing, we hope it will improve. <\/span>We have made acclimatization trips around the base camp. The atmosphere at base camp is better than last spring, there is no doubt. In a few days, when the mountaineers from Manaslu come up, more people will come here, but at the moment we are quite well, the atmosphere is very good and there is a very strong team to install fixed ropes. We also go up to try to spend, if we can, three or four nights although the weather forecast is bad.<\/p>\n

Desnivel:\u00a0On the precautions that are being taken in the base camp regarding Covid<\/strong> in the base camp, Carlos Soria explains:<\/p>\n

\u201cThe stores are more separated and we have several dining rooms. All Sherpas have come with both shots, most people too. Everyone has done the PCR before going to base camp.<\/p>\n

Desnivel:\u00a0Regarding whether spring or autumn is the best season to try the Dhaulagiri:<\/p>\n