{"id":40147,"date":"2021-11-15T16:32:20","date_gmt":"2021-11-15T23:32:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=40147"},"modified":"2021-11-15T16:32:20","modified_gmt":"2021-11-15T23:32:20","slug":"recent-climbing-news","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2021\/11\/15\/recent-climbing-news\/","title":{"rendered":"Recent Climbing News"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We are in the saddle season for the big mountains &#8211; 8000ers post-monsoon in Nepal and anticipated winter climbs this winter. So here&#8217;s a quick round-up of some of the more interesting recent activities.<\/p>\n<h3>Ama Dablam<\/h3>\n<p>One of the more popular autumn climbs in the Khumbu area, she saw many commercial summits this year but also some surprises. <span class=\"\">Italian <a href=\"Fran\u00e7ois%20Cazzanelli\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Francois Cazzanelli<\/a> ascended the picturesque 22,349-foot Ama Dablam in <\/span><span class=\"\">5 hours 32 minutes and 6 seconds. Fran\u00e7ois Cazzanelli gave these details:<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Emrik Favre, Roger Bovard, Jerome Perruquet and I after Tengkampoche decided to climb the 6812m tall Ama Dablam, the Matterhorn of the Himalayan. Emrik and I planned a speed climb from base camp in the same room while Roger and Jerome started from camp 2. I left base camp at 6:30 am November 11th. I arrived in the Yakok camp within an hour, and then I completed the following (cumulated-PL):<\/p>\n<p>Camp 1: 1 hour 50 minutes<br \/>\nCamp #2: 2 hours 50 minutes<br \/>\nCamp 3: 3 hours 50 minutes<br \/>\npeak: 5 hours 32 minutes 8 seconds<\/p>\n<p>While having fun in camp 3 we joined together with my friends. Ekkor Mingma David Sherpa asked for our help, Iranian female client was sick. We immediately saw that he has an odema in Magashegyi. We spent about four and a half hours at camp 3 to help the girl in orientation. Fortunately, with the help of Kailash Helicopter, he was able to save him in a helicopter using a longline technique.<\/p>\n<p>Then we continued to climb down. I got to base camp in 2 hours 17 minutes from camp 3 If the rescue is gone, I climbed Ama Dablam in 8hrs and 7mins.<br \/>\nWith the memory of a wonderful climb, I came home from a wonderful mountain, the uplifting feeling of being able to climb in the company of my best friends, and also helped a person in trouble.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Czech climber <a class=\"oajrlxb2 g5ia77u1 qu0x051f esr5mh6w e9989ue4 r7d6kgcz rq0escxv nhd2j8a9 nc684nl6 p7hjln8o kvgmc6g5 cxmmr5t8 oygrvhab hcukyx3x jb3vyjys rz4wbd8a qt6c0cv9 a8nywdso i1ao9s8h esuyzwwr f1sip0of lzcic4wl q66pz984 gpro0wi8 b1v8xokw\" tabindex=\"0\" role=\"link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/zdenek.h.hak?__cft__[0]=AZXPLLbG-j4reTLtzDMmlBinFhS3qBZJNqxg5mEXUxJu0yUawPm8iboBs2uPMWRjXrRZev7tpPyFEBt32oIVSVgsQHsWG9sN780N9bK_wBF4z5ZL5awjYyRq4lSn65QQ4tJUedf5KIF4vqdo1Hr6b1n2&amp;__tn__=-]K-R\"><span class=\"nc684nl6\">Zden\u011bk H\u00e1\u010dek H\u00e1k<\/span><\/a> and Kuba K\u00e1cha did an ascent of the American Direct Route<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_40148\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-40148\" style=\"width: 521px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-40148\" src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-521x480.jpeg\" alt=\"Ama Dablam west face \u201cAmerican Direct Route\u201d Courtesy of Utmost \" width=\"521\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-521x480.jpeg 521w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-244x225.jpeg 244w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-1536x1415.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-1000x921.jpeg 1000w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-230x212.jpeg 230w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-350x322.jpeg 350w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image-480x442.jpeg 480w, https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image.jpeg 1900w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 521px) 100vw, 521px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-40148\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ama Dablam west face \u201cAmerican Direct Route\u201d Courtesy of Utmost Adventures<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Avalanches!<\/h3>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/english.khabarhub.com\/2021\/14\/220007\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Khabar<\/a> reported that a massive avalanche off Tukuche Peak, aka Manapathi Mountain of Mustang which is not far from Dhaulagiri, created panic in the village of Kobang. Eleven people were injured in the chaos. The avi lasted 30 minutes and killed multiple yaks grazing nearby.<\/p>\n<div id=\"kgvid_kgvid_0_wrapper\" class=\"kgvid_wrapper kgvid_wrapper_auto_left kgvid_wrapper_auto_right\">\n\t\t\t<div id=\"video_kgvid_0_div\" class=\"fitvidsignore kgvid_videodiv\" data-id=\"kgvid_0\" data-kgvid_video_vars=\"{&quot;id&quot;:&quot;kgvid_0&quot;,&quot;attachment_id&quot;:&quot;40149&quot;,&quot;player_type&quot;:&quot;Video.js v8&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;426&quot;,&quot;height&quot;:&quot;240&quot;,&quot;fullwidth&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;fixed_aspect&quot;:&quot;vertical&quot;,&quot;countable&quot;:true,&quot;count_views&quot;:&quot;start_complete&quot;,&quot;start&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;autoplay&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;pauseothervideos&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;set_volume&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;muted&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;meta&quot;:true,&quot;endofvideooverlay&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.alanarnette.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/12\\\/summitcoach-e1483568572550.jpg&quot;,&quot;resize&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;auto_res&quot;:&quot;automatic&quot;,&quot;pixel_ratio&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;right_click&quot;:false,&quot;playback_rate&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Tukuche Peak avalanche on Kobang Village&quot;,&quot;skip_buttons&quot;:[],&quot;nativecontrolsfortouch&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;locale&quot;:&quot;en&quot;,&quot;enable_resolutions_plugin&quot;:false}\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/5Eph9zkyGW80Fgn_thumb1.jpg\"><meta itemprop=\"embedUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/5Eph9zkyGW80Fgn.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"contentUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/5Eph9zkyGW80Fgn.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"name\" content=\"Tukuche Peak avalanche on Kobang Village\"><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"Tukuche Peak avalanche on Kobang Village\"><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2021-11-15T15:25:06-07:00\">\n\t\t\t\t<video id=\"video_kgvid_0\" playsinline controls preload=\"metadata\" poster=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/5Eph9zkyGW80Fgn_thumb1.jpg\" width=\"426\" height=\"240\" class=\"fitvidsignore video-js kg-video-js-skin\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/5Eph9zkyGW80Fgn.mp4?id=0\" type=\"video\/mp4\" data-res=\"240p\">\n\t\t\t\t<\/video>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"kgvid_below_video\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_below\"><div class=\"kgvid-viewcount\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_viewcount\">867 views<\/div><div class=\"kgvid-caption\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_caption\">Tukuche Peak avalanche on Kobang Village<\/div><\/div>\t\t\t<div style=\"display:none\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_meta\" class=\"kgvid_video_meta kgvid_video_meta_hover \">\n\t\t\t\t<span class='kgvid_meta_icons'><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<span id='video_kgvid_0_title' class='kgvid_title'>Tukuche Peak avalanche on Kobang Village<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<p>In sad news, an avalanche off Minbo Ider, 6017-meters, took the lives of three French alpinists: Thomas Arfi, Louis Pachoud, and Gabriel Miloche. Their bodies were recovered a few days later by a search team.<\/p>\n<h3>Dhaulagiri<\/h3>\n<p>Doing some clean-up on the 8000ers summited recently. The 26,795-foot peak Dhaulagiri finally saw summits after multiple teams gave up. The local Nepali operators, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sevensummittreks\/posts\/3190154614604346\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Seven Summit Treks<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pioneeradventuretreks\/posts\/4495944467120058\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Pioneer Adventure<\/a> put over 34 on top. SST noted these summits:<br \/>\n1. NIMA TENDI SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span> (Fixing Team)<br \/>\n2. TASHI SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span> (Fixing Team)<br \/>\n3. TENJING SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span>(Fixing Team)<br \/>\n4. CHO CHEOL HEE <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t80\/2\/16\/1f1f0_1f1f7.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f0;&#x1f1f7;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n5. HE JING <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t25\/2\/16\/1f1e8_1f1f3.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1e8;&#x1f1f3;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n6. VIRIDIANA ALVAREZ CHAVEZ <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/taf\/2\/16\/1f1f2_1f1fd.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f2;&#x1f1fd;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n7. SOPHIE LAVAUD <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t37\/2\/16\/1f1e8_1f1ed.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1e8;&#x1f1ed;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n8. NAOKO WATANABE <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/td5\/2\/16\/1f1ef_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1ef;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n9. MATTEO BONALUMI <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t18\/2\/16\/1f1ee_1f1f9.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1ee;&#x1f1f9;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n10. SIRBAZ KHAN <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tbe\/2\/16\/1f1f5_1f1f0.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f5;&#x1f1f0;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p>11 Adrain Laza <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t44\/2\/16\/1f1f7_1f1f4.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f7;&#x1f1f4;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p>12. LAKPA DENDI SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span>(Fixing Team)<br \/>\n13. PURNIMA SHRESTHA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n14. LHAKPA TEMBA SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n15. DAWA SANGAY SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n16. PASTEMBA SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n17. PECHHUMBE SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n18. PASANG RINZEE SHERPA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n19. MARCO CAMANDONA <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t18\/2\/16\/1f1ee_1f1f9.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1ee;&#x1f1f9;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n20. PIETRO PICCO <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t18\/2\/16\/1f1ee_1f1f9.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1ee;&#x1f1f9;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n21. TIM BOGDANOV <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t13\/2\/16\/1f1f8_1f1ea.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f8;&#x1f1ea;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n22. WALDEMAR DOMINIK KOWALEWSKI <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t3f\/2\/16\/1f1f5_1f1f1.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f5;&#x1f1f1;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p>23. Tenjin Sherpa (Lama) <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n24. Ang Tenji Sherpa <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n25. Sona Sherpa <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p>SST said Pasang Nurbu started the summit push from the basecamp and summited Dhaulagiri on 7 Oct at 10:11am, taking a total duration of 23 hours and 11 minutes, a record.<\/p>\n<p>And Pioneer:<\/p>\n<p>1. Ms. Piyali ( First Indian Women to climb without Oxygen) <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t12\/2\/16\/1f1ee_1f1f3.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1ee;&#x1f1f3;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n2. Ms. Baljeet (First Indian Women to climb Dhaulagiri) <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t12\/2\/16\/1f1ee_1f1f3.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1ee;&#x1f1f3;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n3. Mr. Palkesh <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/t12\/2\/16\/1f1ee_1f1f3.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1ee;&#x1f1f3;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n4. Mr. Sanu Sherpa (leader of rope fixing team)<span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n5. Ms. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (First Nepalese Women to climb Dhaulagiri) <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n6. Mr. Pema Tshering Sherpa<span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n7. Mr. Danuru Sherpa <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n8. Mr. Pemba Nurbu Sherpa <span class=\"pq6dq46d tbxw36s4 knj5qynh kvgmc6g5 ditlmg2l oygrvhab nvdbi5me sf5mxxl7 gl3lb2sf hhz5lgdu\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/images\/emoji.php\/v9\/tc1\/2\/16\/1f1f3_1f1f5.png\" alt=\"&#x1f1f3;&#x1f1f5;\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\" \/><\/span><br \/>\n9. Ms. Ko-Erh Tseng<\/p>\n<p>Note: &#8216;first&#8217; and fastest claims are not verified.<\/p>\n<h3>Winter Everest<\/h3>\n<p>German climber, <a href=\"https:\/\/jostkobusch.de\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Jost Kobusch<\/a>, has arrived in Nepal for his no O&#8217;s, solo attempt on Everest&#8217; West Ridge. Please see this <a href=\"https:\/\/wp.me\/p5LUlU-aoS\">video interview<\/a> I did with him. He now says his goal is to reach 8,000-meters and not the summit. The massive Neaplimoperator, Seven Summits Treks is reportedly running a commercial winter team this year.<\/p>\n<h3>IceFall Bypass<\/h3>\n<p>As I reported on April 28, 2021, but is now being reported as new news, guides and Sherpas have always speculated on using the flanks of Nuptse to bypass the Khumbu Icefall to reach Camp 1. The Benegas Brothers advocated for this for many years. Now, 70-year-old French alpinist, Marc Batard said he is going to explore that possibility this autumn. He has said he wants to climb Everest next year without Os at age 70. He\u2019s invited Sajid Ali Sadpara, the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara\u2019s son, to come along and also Pasang Nuru Sherpa.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s unlikely this will work, but good on him for trying. The slopes of Nuptse are steep, rocky, and as avalanche-prone as the West Shoulder of Everest. The technical difficulty is significant thus Sherpas making \u201cspeed\u201d carries to stock the high camps would probably prefer the normal route where they go faster. Of course, if it proves viable, it might be an alternative for expert climbers, but not the masses.<\/p>\n<p>In September 1998, Batard summited Everest in 22.5 hours on the Nepal side. His complete team this time includes mountain guides Gerard Menard, Lucien Boucansaud and Yorick Vion, Dr. Nadine Laborde, Batard\u2019s son Allan, with his husband Deni de Almeida as reported by ExplorersWeb.<\/p>\n<p>After the Everest recee, Sadpara will meet up with Alex Txikon and Simone Moro for another winter Manaslu attempt.<\/p>\n<p>Best of luck to all and congratulations to those who accomplished their missions.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We are in the saddle season for the big mountains &#8211; 8000ers post-monsoon in Nepal and anticipated winter climbs this winter. So here&#8217;s a quick round-up of some of the more interesting recent activities.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":40148,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"We are in the saddle season for the big mountains - 8000ers post-monsoon in Nepal and anticipated winter climbs this winter. So here's a quick round-up of some of the more interesting recent activities.","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147],"tags":[21,432,491,448],"class_list":["post-40147","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","tag-ama-dablam","tag-climbing-news","tag-dhaulagiri","tag-everest"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/11\/image.jpeg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/40147","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=40147"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/40147\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/40148"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=40147"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=40147"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=40147"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}