8000ers – Annapurna Summits<\/span><\/h2>\n![\"8K](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/8K-Expeditions-Annapurna-Team-480x480.jpg\")
8K Expeditions Annapurna Team<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPemba Sherpa<\/a> of 8K Expeditions<\/a> contacted me to talk about their 100% success on Annapurna and how proud he was of two of his Sherpas,\u00a0Pasadawa Sherpa and\u00a0Lakpa T Sherpa, for their role in helping fix the ropes to the summit.<\/p>\nHe said it was a bit difficult for the six members with eight Sherpas who summited between 11:25 am all the way to 4:00 pm starting from the High Camp or C4. He said not everyone was down yet and some are struggling. Pemba told me he had another five left to attempt the summit. These climbers and support made the top:<\/p>\n
\n\n\n\n- \u00a0Norweigan, Kristin Harila<\/a>, 35, wanting to summit all 14 of the 8,000-meters peaks in six or seven months, setting a female record, summited.\u00a0Her first phase includes:\u00a0Annapurna (summited),\u00a0Dhaulagiri,\u00a0Kanchenjunga,\u00a0Everest,\u00a0Lhotse\u00a0and\u00a0<\/span>Makalu. The second phase has\u00a0Nanga Parbat,\u00a0G1,\u00a0G2,\u00a0Broad Peak, and\u00a0K2.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/div>\n2. Kasturi Deepak Savekar \u2013 India<\/div>\n3. Baibanou Bouchra \u2013 Morocco<\/div>\n4. Australian,\u00a0<\/span>Allie Pepper<\/span><\/a>, 47, going for her fifth 8000ers. She has Everest, Cho Oyu, and Manaslu,<\/span><\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n
\n\nClimbing Guides:<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n1. Dawa Ongju Sherpa \u2013 Sirdar<\/div>\n2. Pasdawa Sherpa \u2013 Rope Fixing<\/div>\n3. Halung Dorchi Sherpa \u2013<\/div>\n4. Lakpa Thendu Sherpa \u2013 Rope Fixing<\/div>\n5. Dawa Wongchu Sherpa<\/div>\n6. Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa<\/div>\n7. Dawa Tenzing Sherpa<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\nAlso summiting was\u00a0Kami Sherpa, and Urgen Sherpa with Bharath Thammineni, Palkesh Kalma, Baljeet Kaur, and Skalzang Rigzin from Peak Promotions and\u00a0Seven Summits Treks with:<\/div>\n\n\n1. Gelje Sherpa (Fixing Team)<\/div>\n2. Pasang Nurbu Sherpa (Fixing Team)<\/div>\n3.\u00a0Adriana Brownlee<\/a> at 21, is hoping to set a female age record for all 14. She has Everest and Lhotse.<\/div>\n4. Dorota Lidia Samocko<\/div>\n5. Dawa Sherpa<\/div>\n6. Olga Koroleva<\/div>\n7. Chhangba Sherpa<\/div>\n8. Hans Wenzl No O2<\/div>\n9. Tim Bogdanov No O2<\/div>\n10. Giamppaolo Corona \u00a0 No O2<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\nTawainese\u00a0Tseng Ko-Erh aka\u00a0Grace Tseng<\/a>, 30, is hoping to get all 14 of the 8000ers, summitted with Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Ningma Dorje Tamang of Dolma Outdoor. She didn’t use O’s this time. She has Everest, Lhotse and Manaslu.<\/div>\n<\/div>\nKangchenjunga\u00a0– Playing Tough<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\nMimnga G<\/span><\/a>\u00a0of Imagine Nepal had to pull the summit attempt due to poor conditions. <\/span>Coloradoan Tracee Metcalf<\/a>, 48, ended her summit push just a week after submitting Dhaulagiri. She has summited Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Annapurna. She said, “Down to BC but I think we spent several hours above 8400 in very technical terrain. I accept no summit was possible but I am disappointed in my decisions.”<\/p>\nAnd Dutch legend, Wilco van Rooijen<\/a>, \u00a0made this interesting post about rescue and conditions, “Last night was 1-st summit attemped with team Nirmal Purja. It failed. And 1 heli rescue 6350m! (Team flew in from other 8000m mountain) ”<\/p>\nDhaulagiri: Still Holding<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\nCarlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas are hoping to get to the summit soon. They’ve been holding at BaseCamp for improved weather. Their latest update showed them holding as of April 26, “Today we went to “the stone of Sito” to train. It is a rock located about 2.5 hours from the Base Camp full of fossils and from where you have a great view of Dhaulagiri.”<\/span><\/p>\nClimb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nNepal Permit Update as of April 26, 2022 – Everest Holding at 303, 100 less than 2021<\/h2>\n
The permits for Everest are leveling out albeit around 100 less than the record set in 2021 of 408. Climbing permits have been issued for\u00a0<\/span>886 climbers from 73 countries for 25 peaks.\u00a0Looking at Everest only, the US has the largest representation with 63 members, followed by the UK-33, Nepal (non-Sherpas)-20, India-22, Canada-17, Russia-17, France-12, China-10, and Austria with 10. There are 37 countries represented by a single climber.<\/span><\/p>\nThese permits have generated $3.7M in royalties for the government. Almost all of this revenue stays in Kathmandu, with some in various personal pockets and none to the Sherpas, porters, or other high-altitude workers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism posted these foreign permit tally as of April 26, 2022:<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Everest: 303<\/strong>\u00a0on 38 teams \u00a0(many very small teams this year)<\/li>\n
- Ama Dablam: 97 on 9 teams<\/li>\n
- Annapurna I: 26 on 4 teams<\/li>\n
- Annapurna 4: 9 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Baruntse: 20 on 3 teams<\/li>\n
- Bhemdang: 8 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Dhaulagiri: 27 on 3 teams<\/li>\n
- Gangapurna: 2 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Himlung: 35 on 4 teams<\/li>\n
- Khangchung: 68 on 7 teams \u00a0(many very small teams this tear)<\/li>\n
- Kangchung\/UIAA: 2 on 1 teams<\/li>\n
- Lhotse: 112 on 12 teams<\/li>\n
- Makalu: 39 on 4 teams<\/li>\n
- Manaslu: 9 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Mukot: 4 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Norbu Khang: 5 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Nuptse: 57 on 7 teams<\/li>\n
- Phu Khang: 5 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Pokhar Kang: 9 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Putha Hiunchuli: 14 \u00a0on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Ratna Chuli: 9 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Saribung: 10 on 2 teams<\/li>\n
- Saula: 2 on 1 team<\/li>\n
- Thapa (Dhampus): 12 on 4 teams<\/li>\n
- Urknmang: 2 on 1 team<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
\nThe Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/span><\/h2>\nYou can listen to #everest2022 podcasts on\u00a0<\/span>Spotify<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Apple Podcast<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Google Podcasts<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Pocket Casts<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>RadioPublic<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Anchor<\/span><\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/span><\/p>\nClimb On!
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nSummit Coach<\/span><\/h2>\n
Pemba Sherpa<\/a> of 8K Expeditions<\/a> contacted me to talk about their 100% success on Annapurna and how proud he was of two of his Sherpas,\u00a0Pasadawa Sherpa and\u00a0Lakpa T Sherpa, for their role in helping fix the ropes to the summit.<\/p>\n He said it was a bit difficult for the six members with eight Sherpas who summited between 11:25 am all the way to 4:00 pm starting from the High Camp or C4. He said not everyone was down yet and some are struggling. Pemba told me he had another five left to attempt the summit. These climbers and support made the top:<\/p>\n Kangchenjunga\u00a0– Playing Tough<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n Mimnga G<\/span><\/a>\u00a0of Imagine Nepal had to pull the summit attempt due to poor conditions. <\/span>Coloradoan Tracee Metcalf<\/a>, 48, ended her summit push just a week after submitting Dhaulagiri. She has summited Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Annapurna. She said, “Down to BC but I think we spent several hours above 8400 in very technical terrain. I accept no summit was possible but I am disappointed in my decisions.”<\/p>\n And Dutch legend, Wilco van Rooijen<\/a>, \u00a0made this interesting post about rescue and conditions, “Last night was 1-st summit attemped with team Nirmal Purja. It failed. And 1 heli rescue 6350m! (Team flew in from other 8000m mountain) ”<\/p>\n Dhaulagiri: Still Holding<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n Carlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas are hoping to get to the summit soon. They’ve been holding at BaseCamp for improved weather. Their latest update showed them holding as of April 26, “Today we went to “the stone of Sito” to train. It is a rock located about 2.5 hours from the Base Camp full of fossils and from where you have a great view of Dhaulagiri.”<\/span><\/p>\n Climb On! The permits for Everest are leveling out albeit around 100 less than the record set in 2021 of 408. Climbing permits have been issued for\u00a0<\/span>886 climbers from 73 countries for 25 peaks.\u00a0Looking at Everest only, the US has the largest representation with 63 members, followed by the UK-33, Nepal (non-Sherpas)-20, India-22, Canada-17, Russia-17, France-12, China-10, and Austria with 10. There are 37 countries represented by a single climber.<\/span><\/p>\n These permits have generated $3.7M in royalties for the government. Almost all of this revenue stays in Kathmandu, with some in various personal pockets and none to the Sherpas, porters, or other high-altitude workers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism posted these foreign permit tally as of April 26, 2022:<\/span><\/p>\n You can listen to #everest2022 podcasts on\u00a0<\/span>Spotify<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Apple Podcast<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Google Podcasts<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Pocket Casts<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>RadioPublic<\/span><\/a>,\u00a0<\/span>Anchor<\/span><\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/span><\/p>\n Climb On!\n
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\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nNepal Permit Update as of April 26, 2022 – Everest Holding at 303, 100 less than 2021<\/h2>\n
\n
\nThe Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/span><\/h2>\n
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nSummit Coach<\/span><\/h2>\n
![\"summit](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg\")
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