- \r\n
- Alexander Brychkin<\/li>\r\n
- Natalia Bykovskaya<\/li>\r\n
- Veronika Zaripova<\/li>\r\n
- Kovalenko Lilia<\/li>\r\n
- Kuprichenkov Fedor<\/li>\r\n
- Manevich Boris<\/li>\r\n
- Motorkin Sergey<\/li>\r\n
- Rumyantseva Olg<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n
Guides:<\/p>\r\n
- \r\n
- Alexander Abramov<\/li>\r\n
- Artem Rostovtsev<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n
Supported by:<\/p>\r\n
- \r\n
- \u00a0Lakpa Gelu Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Lakpa Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Ngima Dorchi Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Dawa Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Ngima Nurbu Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Dawa Temba Sherpa- LHOTSE SHERPA<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Rinjin Wongel Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Ngima Thindu Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Nima Dindu Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Nima Ungdi Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Ngima Ongda Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Dawa Chhiring Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Lakpa Gelu Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Mingdukpa Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Milan Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Ngima Ongdi Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Rinjen Sherpa<\/li>\r\n
- \u00a0Pemba Nurbu Sherpa<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n
Reporting in later than most, the Elite expeditions team got a 31 on the summit of Everest: 12 members with 19 Sherpas on May 15. Some went on to link Lhotse.<\/p>\r\n
\r\n
Everest Lhotse Summiteers:
1. Juan Diego Martinez🇲🇽
2. Silvia Azdreeva 🇧🇬
3. Remy Kloos 🇿🇦
Everest Summiteers:
1. Alex Uddin 🇬🇧
2. David Vartan Brock 🇬🇧
3. David Klint 🇸🇪
4. Dr Badr Alshibani 🇸🇦
5. Gabriel Tarso 🇧🇷
6. Mario Fernando Villagran 🇪🇨
7. Marta Misztal 🇵🇱
8. Sabrina Filzmoser 🇦🇹
9. Steve Davis 🇬🇧<\/p>\r\nSherpa Team
Everest Lhotse:
1. @Nimraldai (without O2)🇳🇵
2. Lakpa Dendi Sherpa 🇳🇵
3. Dawa Chettar Sherpa 🇳🇵
4. Tenji Sherpa 🇳🇵
5. Pasang Tendi Sherpa 🇳🇵
Everest:
1. @mingma_david_sherpa 🇳🇵
2. Yukta Gurung 🇳🇵
3. Kitemba Sherpa 🇳🇵
4. Pasang Norbu Sherpa🇳🇵
5. Pam Dorje Sherpa 🇳🇵
6. Pasang Chiri Sherpa 🇳🇵
7. Phur Lakpa Sherpa 🇳🇵
8. Mingmar Sherpa 🇳🇵
9. Pemba Dorje Sherpa 🇳🇵
10. Karma Gelje Sherpa 🇳🇵
11. @sherpapemchhiri🇳🇵
12. Mitra Bahadur Tamang 🇳🇵
13. Dorje Sherpa 🇳🇵
14. Mingma Gyabu Sherpa 🇳🇵
15. Mingma Sherpa 🇳🇵<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n
\r\nWave Seven!, Yes, Tuesday will perhaps see wave seven depending on the winds. \u00a0At least 27 more summits Monday Morning, May 16, 2022, bringing the total on both sides to 396 on the Neal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. More going for Tuesday, depending on the winds. They are forecasted to gust to 45mph\/70 kph on Monday night. By my count, there are around 40 to 60 people left to summit.<\/p>\r\n
\u00a0Alpine Ascents Int.<\/a>\u00a0is at the South Col where they are spending the night and will target May 18. And Madison Mountaineering<\/a>\u00a0seems pleased to hold out at Camp2 for a few more days.<\/p>\r\n
Lhotse in true Style<\/h2>\r\n
\r\nThere have been many Lhotse summits, but most have come directly from Everest via the South Col and not from Base Camp. One notable exception is Hungarian Szil\u00e1rd Suhajda, who climbed independently without O’s or sherpa support and carried all his own gear. He also has summits of K2 and Broad Peak.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\nNo Alternative to the Icefall<\/h2>\r\n
On another note, French alpinist Marc Batard got health issues while trying to prove his alternative route to the Khumbu Icefall along Nuptse’s flanks and eventually called the whole thing off<\/a>.<\/div>\r\nYour Life or use Oxygen?<\/h2>\r\n
There were several case studies on the use of supplemental oxygen and style. I’ve written ad nauseam about why oxygen keeps you warmer and alive and that only 3% of Everest climbers shun it. \u00a0But it’s a point of style and pride for those who don’t want to use it. However, when they face death, they have a choice, use it, turn around, or push to their potential death.<\/div>\r\n\u00a0<\/div>\r\nCarla Perez<\/a>\u00a0on Makalu<\/strong>\u00a0began to feel the usual symptoms of a no Os climb with cold extremities, shivering, and generally not well. SHe had a choice. In her own words:<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n
And well back from my last rotation that became the last rotation + summit attempt, because apparently May 12 was a good day to try to go to the summit.<\/p>\r\n
I spent 8 days through the high altitudes moving between field and field and resting on C1, almost transformed into Yeti. I arrived very close to the top but the wind and cold went on so much before dawn, that I moved while continuing to shiver from the cold and with numb hands and feet, I saw no choice but to turn around 200 meters from the summit to avoid consequences, that is, around 8250 meters. Those who tried “without O2” put oxygen and there were still people with frostbite, my team that was going that day proposed me to do the same but it did not motivate me, I remained faithful to my plan to try without the help of O2. Carla said to myself: Why would you propose these challenges to yourself, if given the moment, you look for it easily and guaranteed? So I turned around, just like two Italian friends who were without a mask. Now days off, cure the crumbs and plan one more attempt😉😊🤫🤓🙌🏼… #liveyouradventure @eddiebauer #womenarenotsmallmen<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n
And my friend Wilco van Rooijen<\/a>\u00a0on Kangchengunga<\/strong> faced a similar dilemma \u00a0<\/p>\r\n
\r\n\r\n
Where to start the story? So much has happened. Cas stayed behind which made it mentally hard. Only 1 climber summited in 20 hours. Using oxygen, it takes 12 hours. But me and extra oxygen? Do I have a choice? Do I stick to my principles, or do I adapt to the new situation?<\/div>\r\n\u00a0<\/div>\r\nThen Lolo invited me to come along with him and his Sherpa. He is using extra oxygen, so I do too. The first time in my life! I have 2 bottles of oxygen, but I don\u2019t have a Sherpa to assist me in carrying them so the extra 6 kgs are on my back. If the weather stays, I have a chance. But then, at 8,100 meters Lolo\u2019s Sherpa encounters a problem: pain in his feet due to his boots. Lolo decides to go back with him.<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n
\r\nDecision time again\u2026 Do I continue? Do I have enough oxygen? It\u2019s more than 500 meters, long way up and back down again. What if my oxygen runs out? Hallucinations, black fingers? Do I really want to be dependent on this?<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\nI see the row of 18 climbers \u2013 all with extra oxygen and Sherpas to help carry. No, this is not our way and what we believe. No summit is worth it. I quit!<\/div>\r\nSo, I returned with Lolo and his brave Sherpa. Supplementary oxygen was once but never again. I don\u2019t like my life depending on a technical system.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\nIt took an adventure to realize how important it is to keep faith in your beliefs instead of going for a \u2018quick\u2019 success. And that\u2019s why I love the mountains, the lessons you learn time and time again!<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\nAnd Billi Bierling<\/a>\u00a0on Dhaulagiri<\/strong> also climbing without Os, carrying her own gear found herself in trouble as she told excellent mountaineering journalist Stefan Nestler<\/a>:<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n
\u201cIt was very strenuous because I was climbing without bottled oxygen and carried my own gear in my backpack. The Northeast Ridge is just mercilessly steep.” She arrived hours later than her team to Camp 3.\u00a0\u201cTwo hours was not enough time for me to recover. If I had attempted the summit, I might have made it to the top, but might have gotten into trouble on the descent. I didn\u2019t want to put anyone through that. I was aware that the summit was only half the way. The mountain is out of my league, but I\u2019m very grateful to have come this far under the difficult conditions.\u201d<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\nStefan sums it up nicely, “Some high-altitude climbers could take a leaf out of that kind of honesty and humility.”<\/div>\r\n\r\nClimb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything<\/p>\r\n<\/div>\r\n
\r\nThe Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\r\n
You can listen to #everest2022 podcasts on Spotify<\/a>, Apple Podcast<\/a>, Google Podcasts<\/a>, Pocket Casts<\/a>, RadioPublic<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\r\n
\r\nSummit Coach<\/h2>\r\n
![\"summit](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg?resize=200%2C79&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/p>\r\n