{"id":41516,"date":"2022-05-19T15:02:23","date_gmt":"2022-05-19T21:02:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=41516"},"modified":"2024-05-12T11:16:15","modified_gmt":"2024-05-12T17:16:15","slug":"everest-2022-summit-wave-9-again","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2022\/05\/19\/everest-2022-summit-wave-9-again\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9 – Recap"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\r\n

Looks like Madison Mountaineering<\/a>\u00a0summited Everest around 8:00 am Friday morning, May 20, 2022, right on their schedule. No word yet on names or numbers but there were around 15 total people on the team, including support.<\/del> This makes Garrett’s 12th Everest summit, and the distinction of guiding more people to the summit of Everest, and \u00a0I think K2, than any other Western (not Sherpa) guide.\u00a0They said they were the only team making a summit push today.<\/p>\r\n

The list of summiters:<\/p>\r\n

    \r\n
  1. Garrett Madison\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  2. Terray Sylvester\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  3. Todd Ammerman\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  4. Carter Beck\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  5. Dwight Crow\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  6. Saskia Jacobson\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  7. Robert \u201cJosh\u201d Garrison\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  8. Cameron Kenny\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  9. Chase Mariam\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  10. Sara Safari\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  11. Javier \u201cCacho\u201d Beiza\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
  12. Robert Smith<\/li>\r\n
  13. Roi Negri\u00a0<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n

    Supported by<\/p>\r\n

      \r\n
    1. Aang Phurba Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    2. Siddi Bhadur Tamang\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    3. Kam Dorchi Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    4. Ming Dorchi Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    5. Rinji Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    6. Sher Thapa Magar\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    7. Pasang Bhote\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    8. Temba Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    9. Chhiring Bhote\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    10. Sangge Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    11. Lakpa Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    12. Pemba Chhiri Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    13. Aang Kami Lama\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    14. Mingma Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    15. Dhana Bahadur Tamang\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    16. Dawa Sherpa\u00a0<\/li>\r\n
    17. Chhetter Sherpa Nepal<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n

      News from Makalu. It looks like Jon Gupta’s friends team summited the big peak adding to his success on Kanchenjunga: These are the reported summiters:\u00a0Jon Gupta,\u00a0Adam S. Booth,\u00a0Lakpa Sherpa (2nd Ascent),\u00a0Tenjin Sherpa, Jackson Groves, and\u00a0Tashi Sherpa.<\/p>\r\n

      I also got an update from French climber\u00a0Emma Clair who summited Everest on May 12 with Thamserku:\u00a0Jangbu Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa,\u00a0Nicolas Boily (Canada),\u00a0Dawa Sherpa,\u00a0Omnika Dangol (Nepal) with two Sherpas not named and\u00a0Heikki Karinen (Finland) with two 2 Sherpas, also not named.<\/p>\r\n

      Another summit sucess just now being reported came from Dream Himalaya Everest:\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

      \r\n
      \r\n
      Summit Date – 15th May, 8.15am<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<\/div>\r\n
      \r\n
      \r\n
      1. Mr. Olivier Thomas – France<\/div>\r\n
      2. Kevin Fare Brother – Australia<\/div>\r\n
      3. Dawa Sambu Sherpa Lama – Nepal<\/div>\r\n
      4. Tendi Sherpa – Nepal<\/div>\r\n
      5. Furi Sherpa – Nepal<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n
      \r\n
      \r\n
      Summit 16th May<\/div>\r\n
      1. Anvita – India<\/div>\r\n
      2. Lakpa Sherpa – Nepal<\/div>\r\n
      3. Jangbu Sherpa<\/div>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n
      Believe it or not, three are still teams on Makalu, and a couple are left for Everest, but with Madison’s summit, the season is virtually over.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n
      I’ll be publishing my annual season summary in a few days. I estimate 525 Nepal summits by 203 members supported by 323 Sherpas. 50 Summits on the Tibet side.\u00a0You can see my estimated summit totals by team on the Tracking Table<\/a><\/div>\r\n
      \r\n

      Well, for the first time since May 11, the summit of Everest was quiet. At least, I think it was. No one reported in this morning, May 19, for Wave 9, but as always, someone could have lurked up there. The weather continues to be so good that I think down suits are optional this year. I probably should not joke, as we just had someone haul a keyboard and play on the summit. Yes, Everest fans, it’s come to this.<\/p>\r\n

      Base Camp is clearing out, with only a few remaining teams left.<\/p>\r\n

      Madison Mountaineering\u00a0<\/a>is on the move as I make this post:<\/p>\r\n

      \r\n

      Good morning from C4! Having breakfast now, inst oatmeal then dehy eggs, yum! But hardly any wind!..everyone doing well at the moment:) we\u2019re the only team here! Resting up to probably head up tonight around 1:00am.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n

      But Tim Mosedale<\/a>\u00a0calculated that retreat was the better part of valor and surrendered his Nuptse attempt after icy conditions had frozen the rope into the mountainside.<\/p>\r\n

      There is talk about small teams going as late as May 25, so I reached out to Michael Fagin of Everest Weather<\/a> and Chris Tomer of\u00a0Tomer Weather Solutions<\/a>. Both agreed the Jetstream is still missing in action but warned things might get dicey around the 23rd Fagin added:<\/p>\r\n

      \r\n

      “Starting to see some summit wind increases from May 23 to May 25. Maybe max summit gusts up to 35 mph. So no jet yet over Everest but some models suggesting some increases.\u00a0I would be concerned as the jet stream has not been over Everest this season yet and some models suggesting it gets close in the May 23 to May 25 timeline. Important to track any changes.”<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n

      Stay tuned.<\/p>\r\n

      Climb On!<\/div>\r\n
      Alan<\/div>\r\n
      Memories are Everything<\/div>\r\n
      \r\n

      The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\r\n

      You can listen to #everest2022 podcasts on Spotify<\/a>, Apple Podcast<\/a>, Google Podcasts<\/a>, Pocket Casts<\/a>, RadioPublic<\/a>, Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\r\n

      \r\n

      Summit Coach<\/h2>\r\n

      Schedule a Free Call<\/a><\/p>\r\n

      \"summit<\/a> If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach<\/a> is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette\u2019s 25 years of high altitude mountain experience, including summits of Everest, K2, and Manaslu, and 30 years as a business executive.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      OK, it’s about time to stick in the fork and see if it’s done! We still have climbers on Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and \u00a0Nuptse, but they are pretty lonely as most teams are back in Kathmandu or even sleeping in their own beds tonight. All these folks need to get up and out as I’m getting nervous that this weather window will slam shut.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":20804,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Well, for the first time since May 11, the summit of Everest was quiet. At least, I think it was. The weather continues to be so good that I think down suits are optional this year! (joke) #everest2022","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,147,621,81,216],"tags":[432,448,620,439],"class_list":["post-41516","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2022-coverage","category-everest-news","category-everest-popular-posts","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2022-coverage","tag-everest-news"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/IMG_0813.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/41516","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=41516"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/41516\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/20804"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=41516"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=41516"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=41516"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}