{"id":41740,"date":"2022-05-31T14:40:53","date_gmt":"2022-05-31T20:40:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=41740"},"modified":"2022-05-31T15:40:16","modified_gmt":"2022-05-31T21:40:16","slug":"video-interview-wilco-van-rooijen-no-os-kanchenjunga-2022-tough-decisions","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2022\/05\/31\/video-interview-wilco-van-rooijen-no-os-kanchenjunga-2022-tough-decisions\/","title":{"rendered":"Video Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O&#8217;s Kanchenjunga 2022 Tough Decisions"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We sometimes hear about a climber who has to make a tough decision as we follow mountaineering each season. Usually, it involves weather moving in that might jeopardize the team&#8217;s safety or rescuing a teammate. Well, this spring, my long-time friend, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.teamwilcovanrooijen.nl\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Wilco van Rooijen<\/a>, 55, faced a difficult decision, but it involved staying true to his style.<\/p>\n<p>The Dutch mountaineer cheated death in 2008 on K2, but we both lost a dear friend, Ger McDonnell, that year. Wilco, who always climbs without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support, had summited K2, Everest, plus many technical climbs in the Alps. He had a sold attempt in 2018 on Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain at 8,586 m (28,169 ft), with his best friend and climbing partner, Cas van de Gevel.<\/p>\n<p>This 2022 spring, they returned to Kanch for another try in their style. They had perfect weather day after day and had acclimatized on Meru Peak before arriving at Kanch&#8217;s base camp. They made one attempt but were going too slow behind a large group, and it was getting late in the day, so they returned to base camp. It was then that their expedition began to experience problems. The operator they had paid to provide base camp logistics told them they only had three days left as they were going. Cas developed health problems. Soon Wilco found himself high on Kanch with a climber he didn&#8217;t know and a very young and inexperienced Sherpa. Wilco faced a decision that would test his character and test his commitment to the style head sworn to honor.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s a fascinating interview where we talk about our Broad Peak experience, Wilco and Ger on K2 in 2008, and Wilco and Cas this year on Kanch. I take the opportunity to ask Wiclo his views on the changes we are seeing in the world of mountaineering of excessive use of oxygen, inexperienced clients with unqualified guides, helicopters, and more.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<\/p>\n<p>Alan<\/p>\n<p>Memories are Everything<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>Video Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O&#8217;s Kanchenjunga 2022 Tough Decisions<\/h2>\n<div id=\"kgvid_kgvid_0_wrapper\" class=\"kgvid_wrapper kgvid_wrapper_auto_left kgvid_wrapper_auto_right\">\n\t\t\t<div id=\"video_kgvid_0_div\" class=\"fitvidsignore kgvid_videodiv\" data-id=\"kgvid_0\" data-kgvid_video_vars=\"{&quot;id&quot;:&quot;kgvid_0&quot;,&quot;attachment_id&quot;:&quot;41742&quot;,&quot;player_type&quot;:&quot;Video.js v8&quot;,&quot;width&quot;:&quot;640&quot;,&quot;height&quot;:&quot;360&quot;,&quot;fullwidth&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;fixed_aspect&quot;:&quot;vertical&quot;,&quot;countable&quot;:true,&quot;count_views&quot;:&quot;start_complete&quot;,&quot;start&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;autoplay&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;pauseothervideos&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;set_volume&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;muted&quot;:&quot;false&quot;,&quot;meta&quot;:true,&quot;endofvideooverlay&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.alanarnette.com\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/12\\\/summitcoach-e1483568572550.jpg&quot;,&quot;resize&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;auto_res&quot;:&quot;automatic&quot;,&quot;pixel_ratio&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;right_click&quot;:false,&quot;playback_rate&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Wilco Van Rooijen - Kangchenjunja 2022 small&quot;,&quot;skip_buttons&quot;:[],&quot;nativecontrolsfortouch&quot;:&quot;true&quot;,&quot;locale&quot;:&quot;en&quot;,&quot;enable_resolutions_plugin&quot;:false}\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Screen-Shot-2022-05-31-at-Tuesday-May-3131.48-PM.jpg\"><meta itemprop=\"embedUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Wilco-Van-Rooijen-Kangchenjunja-2022-small.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"contentUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Wilco-Van-Rooijen-Kangchenjunja-2022-small.mp4\"><meta itemprop=\"name\" content=\"Wilco Van Rooijen - Kangchenjunja 2022 small\"><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"Video\"><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2022-05-31T14:21:18-06:00\">\n\t\t\t\t<video id=\"video_kgvid_0\" playsinline controls preload=\"metadata\" poster=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Screen-Shot-2022-05-31-at-Tuesday-May-3131.48-PM.jpg\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"fitvidsignore video-js kg-video-js-skin\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source src=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/Wilco-Van-Rooijen-Kangchenjunja-2022-small.mp4?id=0\" type=\"video\/mp4\" data-res=\"720p\">\n\t\t\t\t<\/video>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"kgvid_below_video\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_below\"><div class=\"kgvid-viewcount\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_viewcount\">878 views<\/div><\/div>\t\t\t<div style=\"display:none\" id=\"video_kgvid_0_meta\" class=\"kgvid_video_meta kgvid_video_meta_hover \">\n\t\t\t\t<span class=\"kgvid_meta_icons\"><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<span id=\"video_kgvid_0_title\" class=\"kgvid_title\">Wilco Van Rooijen - Kangchenjunja 2022 small<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<p>Climb On!<br \/>\nAlan<br \/>\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h2>The Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\n<p>You can listen to #everest2021\u00a0<strong>podcasts<\/strong>\u00a0on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/show\/2uu2RcE9WiFKzSGl50oFKY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/podcasts.apple.com\/us\/podcast\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-com\/id1567287947\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apple Podcast<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.breaker.audio\/the-podcast-on-alanarnette-dot-com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Breaker<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/podcasts?feed=aHR0cHM6Ly9hbmNob3IuZm0vcy81MTc3MjdlYy9wb2RjYXN0L3Jzcw==\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Google Podcasts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/pca.st\/otq8ztfv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pocket Casts<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/radiopublic.com\/the-podcast-on-alanarnettecom-G2R7r0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">RadioPublic<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/anchor.fm\/alan-arnette1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for &#8220;alan arnette&#8221; on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We sometimes hear about a climber who has to make a tough decision as we follow mountaineering each season. Usually, it involves weather moving in that might jeopardize the team&#8217;s safety or rescuing a teammate. Well, this spring, my long-time friend, Wilco van Rooijen, 55, faced a difficult decision, but it involved staying true to his style.<\/p>\n<p>The Dutch mountaineer cheated death in 2008 on K2, but we both lost a dear friend, Ger McDonnell, that year. Wilco, who always climbs without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support, had summited K2, Everest, plus many technical climbs in the Alps. He had a sold attempt in 2018 on Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain at 8,586 m (28,169 ft), with his best friend and climbing partner, Cas van de Gevel.<\/p>\n<p>This 2022 spring, they returned to Kanch for another try in their style. They had perfect weather day after day and had acclimatized on Meru Peak before arriving at Kanch&#8217;s base camp. They made one attempt but were going too slow behind a large group, and it was getting late in the day, so they returned to base camp. It was then that their expedition began to experience problems. The operator they had paid to provide base camp logistics told them they only had three days left as they were going. Cas developed health problems. Soon Wilco found himself high on Kanch with a climber he didn&#8217;t know and a very young and inexperienced Sherpa. Wilco faced a decision that would test his character and test his commitment to the style head sworn to honor.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s a fascinating interview where we talk about our Broad Peak experience, Wilco and Ger on K2 in 2008, and Wilco and Cas this year on Kanch. I take the opportunity to ask Wiclo his views on the changes we are seeing in the world of mountaineering of excessive use of oxygen, inexperienced clients with unqualified guides, helicopters, and more.<\/p>\n<p>Climb On!<\/p>\n<p>Alan<\/p>\n<p>Memories are Everything<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":41743,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"I interviewed Dutch climber Wilco Van Rooijen about this season's no O's or support Kanchenjunga climb. He tells the riveting story of facing a decision between style and summit. We also touch on the 2008 K2 disaster and changes to the sport.  #kanchenjunga2022","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[7,147,621,81,216,162],"tags":[432,448,620,595,453,636],"class_list":["post-41740","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-everest","category-everest-2022-coverage","category-everest-news","category-everest-popular-posts","category-interview","tag-climbing-news","tag-everest","tag-everest-2022-coverage","tag-everest-popular-posts","tag-interview","tag-kanchenjunga-2022"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Video Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O&#039;s Kanchenjunga 2022 Tough Decisions - The Blog on alanarnette.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"alanarnette.com is a site covering big mountain climbing including Everest, K2, and the 7 summits. All based on Alan&#039;s experience including Everest in 2011 and the oldest American at 58 to summit K2 in 2014.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2022\/05\/31\/video-interview-wilco-van-rooijen-no-os-kanchenjunga-2022-tough-decisions\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Video Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O&#039;s Kanchenjunga 2022 Tough Decisions - The Blog on alanarnette.com\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"alanarnette.com is a site covering big mountain climbing including Everest, K2, and the 7 summits. 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