Concerning so many climbers across all the Karakorum peaks this summer, teams are sharing tents. In other words, one team may take their tents, establish a high camp, and let other teams use that spot and gear. This is probably the only way to manage this season, but we’ll see what happens when a window opens and everyone wants to jump onto it.<\/p>\n
Nanga Parbat<\/h2>\n
With over 26 summits thus far and a happy outcome for two delayed climbers, look for more summits as the weather allows, including\u00a0Tunc Findick<\/a> and Argentinian climber\u00a0Juan Pablo Toro. Tunic says he’s looking to summit on July 9th or 10th. I like how he describes his no O’s attempt. This is his last of the 8000ers.<\/p>\n Nanga is a hard and steep mountain. Climbing from C1 to C2 at Nanga Parbat’s Diamir face is certainly the crux of Kinshofer route: first the “Low ice gully” an icy face of max 55 degrees ice and snow, from 4900m to 5900m, and finally the rock face of “Kinshofer wall”, a granite wall of max grade V+ UIAA, 150m long, from 5900m to 6050m. Surely provides interesting and exposed climbing, what with tons of derelict ropes and hardware.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Over on K2, Garrett Madison<\/a>\u00a0had their puja and appeared to be settling down to wait for the weather window. Lukas Furtenbach’s<\/a> Broad Peak team has moved to K2 Base Camp and is also waiting for the weather window.<\/p>\n Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal<\/a> says the 4G cell service is back up:<\/p>\n And Karakorum Expeditions<\/a> is on K2 but very quiet.<\/p>\n Here are a few more stats for the 356 issued permits as of late June for K2 this 2022 summer. By nationality, the Nepali, mostly Sherpas, are dominating:<\/p>\n Some of the teams with K2 permits this summer:<\/p>\n Summits have been reported on Broad Peak, the season’s first after the tragedy earlier this week. Italians Giuseppe Vidoni (no O’s,) Nico Jean, plus French climber Benjamin V\u00e9drines (no O’s,) summited on July 4 without fixed ropes.\u00a0Tiziano Moia was with them but turned back. They were ahead of the Furtenbach and Karakorum Expeditions teams.<\/p>\n Giuseppe posted this update<\/a> for the media:<\/p>\n The Italians are having a great Karakorum season. Earlier this week, six Italians summited Nanga, including The team leader, Franz Cazzanelli, who summited from Base Camp in a swift 20 hours\u00a0without Os and these two more on Broad. Congratulations to all.<\/p>\n Pakistani climber Sharif Sadpara died early this week after falling through a soft cornice. Apparently, there was no fixed rope in this section. He had summited\u00a0K2 last year. A brief effort was made to find him to no avail. He was escorting two British climbers on the summit ridge. They were part of Impact Ascents<\/a> out of the UK. Note that there are discrepancies between their write-up and others. Not unusual.<\/p>\n Furtenbach Adventures guide, Ulises Corvalan<\/a>, reports on the death:<\/p>\n \u00a0“I will try to make a brief summary of what happened. On Monday, July 4, our first summit group begins the ascent from field 3 (7,100 meters) at 6:00 pm with Chris as a guide, at 19.45 pm I leave guiding the second summit group (with O2).<\/p>\n Our Sherpas have fixed more than 1300 meters of rope up to the hill (7,900 meters), the conditions are good and after a few hours the two groups arrived at the hill, some members of the first group return before that (this group goes without O2 and the effort is very important..<\/p>\n The two groups walk all night, it is already Tuesday, July 5 and the summit is near, it is very difficult for us to overcome a stretch of climbing even with the rope fixed, the snow at our feet is not solid, everything falls and the effort is enormous, anyway we managed to reach the summit edge.<\/p>\n It is very cold, and it has snowed for a few hours, the visibility on the edge is almost zero, the humidity is very high, however we move forward with great caution thanks to the guide of the fixed rope.<\/p>\n After about 120 meters the rope ends, we know that there is still more than an hour left to the summit, we travel a little more without rope, the snow that does not stop falling to cover the rocks and with our crampons we skate from time to time..<\/p>\n Only one other group shares this summit day, two British and one Pakistani.\u00a0Visibility is almost zero, we stop to think about options, Mignma Sherpa (7 summits at Broad Peak) puts her face of “I like this.”\u00a0I’m waiting for the rest of the group to reach our position, Chris and Mike are already ahead.\u00a0In a second, the place where the Pakistani was sitting collapses and disappears.<\/p>\n The altimeter marks 8,019 meters, you can’t see anything, it’s more than an hour before the summit (8,047) the weather forecast didn’t hit this time,\u00a0I see very tired faces, the group without O2 has made an incredible effort, it has been more than 12 hours and we still have to return.\u00a0After what happened to the Pakistani guide, the spirits are on the floor… “Not possible” are Mignma’s words, she looks at me with her eyes as a child and I understand everything.\u00a0It’s 6:15 am and we start the return, there is no summit this time.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Only two teams are currently attempting GI & G II. In addition to Jagged Globe, a joint effort by Kari Kobler and 360 Expeditions has around 12 members, 6 Sherpas, 5 High Altitude Porters, and 120 cylinders of oxygen, per JG.\u00a0Jagged Globe is doing a nice job of keeping us updated. This is from July 7:<\/p>\n All the team are back in base camp. They descended from Camp 2 this morning, leaving at 0200hrs and arriving at 0830hrs. Very mild temperatures making travel difficult on the lower mountain with much of the icefall covered in wet, rotten snow.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n Climb On! You can listen to #everest2022 podcasts on\u00a0Spotify<\/a>,\u00a0Apple Podcast<\/a>,\u00a0Google Podcasts<\/a>,\u00a0Pocket Casts<\/a>,\u00a0RadioPublic<\/a>,\u00a0Anchor<\/a>, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n Schedule a Free Call<\/a><\/p>\n After the drama this week, climbing will slow down a bit due to weather, but we have summits on Broad Peak and teams progressing on K2. First-hand details on the Broad Peak death are now available. Also, I break down who is climbing on K2.<\/p>\n Big Picture – Weather Incoming<\/p>\n First, the weather forecast looks poor for the big four of K2, BP, GI & GII, so it may be quiet for the next few days or up to a week.\u00a0As we leave the first week of July, progress continues as expected. Teams, actually Sherpas, are fixing the lines on the 8000ers and establishing the high camps. Thus far, the most progress has been on Broad Peak with three summits and Nanga Parbat with at least 26.<\/p>\n There are teams on both Gasherbrum I & II, with Denis Urubko\u00a0said to be going for the GII summit any day now. He has permits for all five of the 8000ers but is taking it peak by peak.\u00a0On K2, Sherpas continue to fix the line with reports saying they have it Camp 3 above the Black Pyramid.\u00a0Most K2 summits occur between July 25 and August 1, but Seven Summits Treks suggest they will summit the second week of July. Probably a bit optimistic given the weather.<\/p>\n With respect to so many climbers across all the Karakorum peaks this summer, teams are sharing tents. In other words, one team may take their tents, establish a high camp, and let other teams use that spot and gear. This is probably the only way to manage this season, but we’ll see what happens when a window opens and everyone wants to jump onto it.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":28274,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"After the drama this week, climbing will slow down a bit due to weather, but we have summits on Broad Peak and teams progressing on K2. First-hand details on the Broad Peak death are now available. Also, I break down who is climbing on K2. #k2022","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"dois","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false},"categories":[7,422,639],"tags":[432,42,640],"class_list":["post-42189","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news","category-k2","category-k2-2022-coverage","tag-climbing-news","tag-k2","tag-k2-2022-coverage"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/IMG_2036.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42189","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=42189"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42189\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28274"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=42189"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=42189"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=42189"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/291518730_157044666896834_3650025437222892012_n-copy-384x480.jpg\")
<\/a>K2<\/h2>\n
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![\"Imagine](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Imagine-Nepal-2022-K2-team-courtesty-of-MIngma-G-640x380.jpg\")
<\/a>A Record K2 Year<\/h3>\n
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Broad Peak – Summit and Death Update<\/h2>\n
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![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Broad-Peak-Summit-Ridge-courtesy-of-Giuseppe-Vidoni-225x169.jpg\")
<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Broad-Peak-Summit-courtesy-of-Giuseppe-Vidoni.jpg-225x169.jpg\")
<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Broad-Peak-Summit-Ridge-beginning-courtesy-of-Giuseppe-Vidoni.jpg-225x169.jpg\")
<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<\/div>\nGasherbrum I<\/h2>\n
Denali<\/h2>\n
\nAlan
\nMemories are Everything<\/p>\n
\nThe Podcast on alanarnette.com<\/h2>\n
\nSummit Coach<\/h2>\n
![\"summit](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/cropped-silverheels_2008_020.jpg?resize=200%2C79&ssl=1\")
<\/a> If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach<\/a> is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette\u2019s 25 years of high-altitude mountain experience, including summits of Everest, K2, and Manaslu, and 30 years as a business executive.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"