{"id":42502,"date":"2022-07-21T17:38:41","date_gmt":"2022-07-21T23:38:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/?p=42502"},"modified":"2022-07-21T18:05:46","modified_gmt":"2022-07-22T00:05:46","slug":"k2-summer-2022-k2-summits-and-one-death","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanarnette.com\/blog\/2022\/07\/21\/k2-summer-2022-k2-summits-and-one-death\/","title":{"rendered":"K2 Summer 2022: K2 Summits and One Death"},"content":{"rendered":"

The rope team reached K2’s summit opening the door for the first team summit from Madison Mountaineering to top out supported by\u00a0Mashabrum Expeditions\u00a0for logistics. O<\/span>ver 100 others are in various high camps for their respective summit bids as of 4:00 am on Friday, July 22, 2022. Sadly there is a report of a death near C3 on K2.<\/p>\n

Big Picture – The Summit Push and A Death – Update<\/h2>\n

It looks like the winds picked back up across the four 8000ers over the last 24 hours, but teams remained focused and summited GII, and K2. It will be a big next 24 to 48 hours across the 8000ers as the weather is predicted to ease. Look for multiple summits from many teams. We will see a record on K2, to be sure.<\/p>\n

UPDATE<\/strong>: Afghanistan climber\u00a0Ali Akber Sakhim, 34, died from altitude sickness near C3 on K2 on July 20, 2022, as Samiya Mirza<\/a> tells me, adding, “Our team tried to save his life brought him down but suddenly he collapsed and passed away.”\u00a0He was attempting to be the first Afghani man to summit K2.<\/p>\n

K2 – Expect Scores of Summits<\/h2>\n

First off, kudos to the rope team from Madison Mountaineering and 8k Expeditions. Garrett Madison<\/a> sent me this update on the rope team summit:<\/p>\n

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Update July 21st 10:40 PM Pakistan time: Our rope fixing team of Sherpas (Siddhi, Dorjee, Rinji) along with 2 Sherpas from the 8k team (Pasdawa & Chhring) have reached the summit of K2. We are very proud of their hard work in setting the route and leading the way. Our climbers in camp 4 have just begun their climb, hopefully reaching the top in about 8 hours, just after sunrise on the 22nd of July.<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n
And Pemba Sherpa from 8K Expeditions<\/a> said in a text to me: “Chhiring Namgyal and Pasdawa Sherpa along with three sherpa from Madison fixed the rope to the top of K2.” He\u00a0said their client, Kristin Harila, should summit K2 early Friday morning, July 22, 2022, making a major dent in her goal to set a new speed record for all fourteen 8000ers.<\/div>\n
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Also word from K2 is that Madison had the first full team summit with four clients supported by 10 Sherpas and one Pakistani Climber.<\/div>\n
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Jenn Drummond<\/a>\u00a0attempting\u00a0to become the first female to complete the Second Seven Summits, reports in from Camp 3 on her summit push. She is with the Imagine Nepal team:<\/p>\n

We are at our high camp3. It was a long hot day. I got hit in the face with a thick snowball someone sent down when they were down climbing. I was wearing an 02 mask, so it saved my face, just got a bloody nose. Unfortunately, we had someone die on the mountain today. The more I do this stuff, the more I realize how important it is, the company you climb with and then the actual person you climb with. It is windier than the weather predicted on both days, we have been climbing. The views have been amazing; this is one steep continuous climb uphill. I am hoping that the sun is a little kinder to us tomorrow the distance we cover seems very minimal, but the altitude and the weather turn what looks like a 30-minute hike into a 2-hour slog. It’s mind-blowing, really. I am tired and hoping my body sleeps tonight! Sending love to everyone at home! Xoxoxo Jenn<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n

The following teams are on their push:<\/p>\n